My cooker went pop the other night, it caused the electrics to trip. Now it seems to only heat to 150 on the gauge. That is when the light goes out when the temp seems get to 150 on the dial. The oven does not get too hot either , prob aroudn the 150 mark.
What has broken the thermostat or the element ?

Its a kenwood range cooker.

Trudy

trudy, February 2008

I needed to replace the lower element in the main oven on our Kenwood CK440 as it no longer gets over 150C. Wasted a load of time trying to access the element before I found this thread. See the notes by Cranhole and Kenwood. You don't need to take the door off, or do anything in the actual oven. You get to the element via the grey cover from inside the storage area by removing the screws as described by Cranhole and Kenwoodfix (thanks guys if you ever look abck at this thread). New element about £38 online, 1400W.

Jeff, November 2017

this can be the oven element or the thermostat ( most likely the thermostat)
you can find both at www.quickspares.co.uk
if they don't have the spare on the site you can contact them and they usually have it in stock
hope this helps!

Lukey B, August 2014

I've just followed instructions by Cranhole and Kenwoodfixer to change a lower element without too much of a problem. The key for me was finding the screws that allow you to remove the panel that gives access to the element. You access the element from within the storage compartment that is below the oven.

Thanks to Cranhole, because I was barking up the wrong tree until I read the tips on how to get to the element.

BTW, here is a link to the manual:
http://www.argosspares.co.uk/images/mediator/90/ck440.pdf

I had two symptoms:
1. Oven would not head above 150C
2. Using the fan oven tripped the main house fuse box

I have just replaced the fan oven element and lower element and that seems to have resolved both issues.. fingers crossed.

Mossrug, December 2012

I replaced the bottom element in a Kenwood CK440 today. After shutting off the power supply you have to remove the back panel (6 screws) and then the 2 screws that hold the element in which are easy to identify. Its more difficult to find the 2 screws that hold the back of the bottom shelf in place but one was behind the cover where the power supply enters the back of the cooker and the other is opposite nearest the right hand edge of the back of the cooker. I also had to unscrew the power cable support to get the shelf to drop down (the long screws stop it dropping). Once all undone the shelf drops down from the back and falls neatly away from the front lip. You can then access the element from the front. You will see that the element is held in place by the bar that goes across middle of the element. The bar on the new element needs to fit in the holes that the old one dropped out of. To put everything back is the reverse of the above. in total I only removed 13 screws (3 of which were on the main cable cover). The job took no more than 30 mins and was relatively straight forward. (i.e. no need for a qualified professional)

kenwoodfixer, September 2012

hi dose any one know were i can get a user guid for kenwood range ck480

mick, April 2011

Same fault(CK440)
must be newer mod as no screws in front bottom panel,as held by lip. Screws in back(two)
element melted,thermal blown,two thermal cutouts on this oven and two cooling fan cutins

noel, September 2010

Had the same type problems with my oven (ck 440) however cooker wasn't on a RCD and caused a residual earth problem,this caused a slight shock from all the plumbing fixtures. I subsequently changed the circuit over to and RCD which tripped the RCD every time main oven was turned on. On checking the oven elements (lower main oven) I found corrosion at the connection which had caused the earth fault.Replaced for £35 bought on line.Whilst looking for possible causes I noticed that there is a fan oven element which controls oven temperature £36 on line could be a possible fault, hope this helps.

Karl, August 2010

Same problem here, fixed it twice, bottom elements keep blowing. Woudn't buy or recommend a Kenwood cooker to anyone. Load of RUBBISH.

Andy366, March 2010

Great advice. Cranhole's advice was spot on and allowed me to change the element in about 30 minutes.I found a good website www.elementman.co.uk. I ordered the part at 3.00p.m. and it arrived at 7.15 a.m. the next day! Thanks.

John, December 2009

I've just had this problem with a 'Kenwood' labelled CK440. The back panel is easily removed via screws around the edges to access the element retaining screws and terminals. From here, the resistance of the element can be checked: Mine was infinite.

To remove the element, on the back panel there are 2 screws that allow you to release a grey-coloured tray that sits below the oven. Once the screws are undone, from the storage compartment at the front, you pull the tray forward and it drops down. As mine fell, it fouled on the cable clamp screws, which I loosened to drop it further. Once all the way down, it will then pull clear at the front and drop to allow you unrestricted access to the element.

The element must then be slid to one side to release it, before withdrawing the terminal section forward. I then ordered a new one: Delonghi Base Oven Element:
http://www.partmaster.co.uk/cgi-bin/product.pl?PID=955111§ion=111494&brand=Delonghi&model=CK440&path=78825,111489:78850,111494

I'm waiting for it to arrive to see if it fixes it. Removing and refitting the element is an easy job for anyone with a philips screwdriver. Diagnosing the element requires a multimeter.

Cranhole, November 2009

where are the fuses located?

Phill, July 2009

got smae problem with my cooker wont heat up no heat from bottom element removed it to find it burnt and blown all over it just ordered new part 37.50 + vat hopefully will sort it. just a quick question where are the thermal fuses located?

K.Ganney, December 2008

Have had the same prob, not getting over 150º (on our Kenwood CK480).

Bottom element can be accessed after taking out the three screws at the front, then taking entire back panel off the rear of the oven and taking the three opposing screws out (just above the element). You then have to take off the centre element cover plate (off the back of the oven) and loosen the element itself (again from the rear) and then wrestle the bottom panel out (great design eh?).

I eventually found out that the centre element was not working, so ordered that from 4kenwood.co.uk .

Paul, November 2008

Our Solution - Bottom Element Replacement - now works perfectly

Had a very similar issue and solving it was fairly simple once I had summoned up the courage.

Switch off all electrical supply to the oven including at fusebox.

You need to take off the back cover to the oven.

Using a voltmeter check for resistance in all the elements - a failed element will give you an 1 reading a working element will be very close to zero.

In our case the bottom element had failed.

Unscrew the 2 retaining screws for the element and work out how to gain access to it - this may differ from oven to oven - on ours you had to undo a panel in the storage section below the oven - a bit fiddly but not impossible.

Repolace the element - got ours from
http://www.partmaster.co.uk/cgi-bin/product.pl?PID=955111&query=Kenwood%20CK780%20Element&model=CK780&path=78825,261565:261646

Put it all back together.

It now heasts to 250C again in about 20 mins.

Hope that's helpful

Pete, October 2008

Exactly the same thing happened to us last week. The oven didn't seem to be heating up and had blown the fuses. On looking at a specialist advice page, we ordered an new element, but this only heats up to about 150c. The fan does not seem to be working properly, so we are not sure what needs to be replaced now. There are no contact details on the paperwork that came with the cooker, so am unsure who to turn to. At the moment we are contemplating just ordering new!!

Kathy, September 2008

The fan now sounds like an angle grinder, so rather than buy 2 elements and a fan (£200+)then hope it fixes all problems (fat hope) I am calling it a day and am looking for a quality (long warranty) replacement. Italian junk, electrics probably made by FIAT.

Martin, May 2008

The fan now sounds like an angle grinder, so rather than buy 2 elements and a fan (£200+)then hope it fixes all problems (fat hope) I am calling it a day and am looking for a quality (long warranty) replacement. Italian junk, electrics probably made by FIAT.

Martin, May 2008

cannot believe this is such a common fault! our main oven blew the other day, and now only heats to 150! what a pile of worthless rubbish. Surely with such an issue currys should do something about this?

sarah, April 2008

I noticed the cooling down fan (after you finish with the oven it runs for 20 mins or so) will not stop. Even this morning with a stone cold oven it runs. So I again had the back off, none of the fuses I replaced were at fault. I checked th elements again, and the bottom
element in the big oven is faulty... This is the one that does not get above 150c on fan assisted. So I now have 2 elements (£85) to replace, 2 genuine temp fuses (£22) and a cooling fan constant runnning problem.. Does anyone have a circuit diagram for this piece of scrap??

martin, March 2008

After changing the 2 temp fuses, the oven will heat up to max on the FAN only setting AND ALSO the OVEN (top plus bottom elements)setting but NOT the combined FAN+Oven setting posn 1 anti-clock, this only gets to 150c and no more. Is this normal?? I don't believe it is.

martin, March 2008

I also have the same 150c problem. The main oven will not go above 150c, and the grill on the small oven does not work. I have opened it up to have a look and found 2 (of 4) thermal fuses blown. The only ones I had available were 190c not the 210c fitted. Also the centre element on the top small oven element (it has 2 seperate loops on the top one. One for grill the other for oven) has blown, its open circuit. The large oven Fan element does now heat up, however I cannot find my ins manual (this oven has been faulty for the past 2 years) so I do not know what all the settings are on the switch. If I put it onto the setting (4 anti clockwise)that show just a fan symbol with a ring round it, the oven will heat up to 250. If however I set it to posn 1 anti-clockwise, ( shows top+bottom + fan) it will only heat up to 150. I will take the back off again tomorrow to check the other element at the bottom. This oven is total junk. I will buy german next time.

martin, March 2008

I have same problem although it only seems to be on the fan assisted setting, on conventional it gets to temp. Although no fuses etc have blown or tripped elecs.
Any joy with the part from ebay???
Anyone got any costs for repair from specialists?????
Ta

liquidlen, March 2008

Same thing happened to me last week, it took out the fuse also, replaced the fuse but cooker only heats to 125c, took it apart tongiht to find lower element in fan oven had blown, bit of a job to remove, ordered a new one on e-bay £36

philip brines, March 2008

Hi again, just got in touch with Kenwood in Hampshire and discovered that the Kenwood oven has nothing to do with them. It is manufactured by Currys and they have purchased a licence to use Kenwood's name on it. I really would NOT have bought the oven had I known that.

Julie, March 2008

Hi again, just got in touch with Kenwood in Hampshire and discovered that the Kenwood oven has nothing to do with them. It is manufactured by Currys and they have purchased a licence to use Kenwood's name on it. I really would NOT have bought the oven had I known that.

Julie, March 2008

we have kenwood ck440 double oven. same problem with large oven, just started wirhin last week where it only reaches 160C. Electrician has just checked elements etc and no probs. Thinks it is either the timer or the selector switch and said i should contact kenwood to get it fixed as oven needs dismantling to do this.

Julie, March 2008