The water and ice dispenser (including the light) frequently quits working on my 3-year-old KitchenAid Superba, model #KSCS25FKSS00). With continued opening and closing of the freezer door, the unit begins to work again. There is no rhyme or reason to its stopping or starting. It may be a short in the unit? Is there a way to get to the panel to check the wires without ripping the door apart. Or, maybe there is a common fix for this common problem? I hope. Thank you.

Jodie, July 2005

Had similar problem with my ge appliance and it has proven difficult to get someone to repair our machine over here in the uk until we got hold of www.agsrefrigeration.co.uk they service the london area for some of the major manufacturers they came out and rectified fault and finally the thing is working like it supposed to.

Dan, March 2013

Same problem with my KA. All 6 wires broken inside the mesh. Thanks for the heads up. 2002 model. Email to KA today in hopes they with have sympathy for my problem. Stated the internet was buzzing with the same problem over and over. Stay tuned....

Jack, August 2011

This thread has been a real eye opener. I too had this problem and using the information from this post was able to repair my refrigerator. I would like to add one note, what I think the reason, or the problem with the design is. Mine had a tie wrap on the hinge holding the harness to the underside of the hinge. The tie wrap was quite tight and where the wires were broken. I added copper braid to add flex to the wire then when putting a new tie wrap on I left it loose. I Believe the tight tie wrap was the reason the wires broke at that point. Good luck and thanks for all the posts

Don Doyle, July 2011

I called Kitchenaide and they sent me a new $800 door free of charge. I had to pay to install it, but I was ok with that. I had the refrigerator for 8 years when they sent it.

ERic, May 2011

Add one more to the list of satisfied howtomendit.com customers! I had a failed ice maker and found this thread and examined the wires at the bottom of the freezer door, and found exactly the same issue - 4 of them were completely severed. I soldered/heat shrank them and it completely fixed the problem. No question - I saved hundreds of dollars. Thanks to those who posted earlier!

Gordon, April 2011

The ice/water dispenser light on my KSCS25FKSS00 manufactured 01/2002 stopped working after a couple of years and I just never replaced it. Just this week 12/2010 both the ice/water dispenser stopped working at the exact same time I replaced the water filter - it was a TOTAL Coincidence!!! After reading these posts I looked at the wires at the bottom of the freezer door and found 3 of the 6 were broken. Not surprised at all, just thankful for these posts otherwise I might've started replacing dispenser components. I didn't even try to call a repair man or KA. Based on these posts it would've been an exercise in futility...Thanks all!

Marty Hench, December 2010

I'm repairing for the third and maybe last time as the wire just keeps getting shorter. I wish there was a long term solutions to this as I cringe everytime my wife opens the freezer.

Monte M., September 2010

Wow! You can add me to the same problem. Can't get water, ice or lights to work on the front of the door.

Bobbi S., October 2009

I have the same problem and Kitchenaid will not acknowledge that the problem is a result of a faulty design.

sbaly, July 2009

I have a side by side Kitchenaid and there is a flashing red light that flashes twice, then repeats. Is this a normal function indicating that the door is open. it is by the on/off switch for my ice maker. My ice maker isn't making ice so I don't know if this is an error code

Linda, July 2009

I have a Kitchenaid KSBSJBL01 (side-by-side, with thru door ice & water). This has been a chronic problem. In fact, I have an annual tradition of re-crimping the severed wires.This past weekend it was time to do it again and I removed the door (because now my compressor is fried and I don't have to worry about missing the door). I spent many hours looking for a way to get the wiring harness out of the door. The water hose is easily replaceable but from what I can see, the electrical harness cannot be removed without completely destroying the door. Great design boys !!! So I re-spliced on the harness plugs. I figure, two more repairs and I will run out of wire.

At that point, I will replace the entire fridge with another brand. Never again will I buy Kitchenaid! We bought Kitchenaid everything (oven, fridge, micro, dishwasher) when we re-did the kitchen 5 years ago. Every unit has been a maintenance problem. (I replaced the regulator/servo-valve on the oven last week) Luckily I can fix everything myself except the compressor and this wire thing when I finally run out of wire.

Meanwhile, I have shifted all of the fridge's contents to the spare Kenmore in the cellar until the Kitchenaid's compressor gets repaired. By the way, the Kenmore is twice the age of the Kitchenaid and has NEVER required any maintenance.

If you are thinking of buying Kitchenaid, be prepared to get intimate with your local appliance repairman. You'll be seeing them a lot!

Robert Warner, December 2008

Yes you, can but I would contact a repair company that is familiar with Kitchenaid.
I'd like to add that this is the second time (11/08/08)
that the wiring harness had to be repaired(KSCS25FKSS00)...splicing...electrical tape to get my water dispenser working again. The technician told me that this is a COMMON problem due to Kitchenaid bad design flaw. The company could not offer a warranty
on their work because it is bound to happen again.
The constant opening of freezer causes rubbing and the wires are destroyed over time because of the location at the bottom of appliance. Newer models have the wiring harness at the top.
These models should have been recalled by Kitchenaid
as soon as it became a common problem.
Kitchenaid is still a good product, it's just this model that has caused unwarranted repairs.

Michelle, November 2008

I recently had similar issues with my Superba door. I found this GREAT HELP SITE and was able to splice the broken wires as described in the earlier postings. The door works fine for now.

I will probably work on a more permanent fix in a few weeks by splicing in additional wire lengths and running the entire cable harness a slightly different route at the door bottom hinge.

I do believe there is a design flaw with the wire harness being too tight at the hinge and running on the wrong side of the water line and possibly the hinge itself.

Jim, October 2008

Hi,

Just spoke to the Kitchenaid folks re my KSCS25FKSS00 refirgerator freezer door electrical harness.

They confirmed that the freezer door wiring harness part # 2203091 (freezer door diag ref #11) runs from the freezer door dispensers through the bottom of the freezer door and ends at a plug that connects to the refrigerator chassis harness plus a ground wire that is fastened by screw to the chassis.

This part number is not a repair kit to replace wires from the bottom of the door to the chassis electrical harness.

The Kitchenaid staff could not tell me if there was a way to remove the freezer door dispensers to allow threading of the repair harness through the bottom of the door to the dispenser area.

Oh well. Guess building the new connection is the best we can do.

Interesting that Kitchenaid would have a repair harness but elect to replace entire freezer doors under warranty as noted in previous replies to this forum..


18 may 2008

Chris Rondestvedt, May 2008

Hi,

Following are my notes from a repair this past Saturday for this model:
KitchenAid Refrigerator
Model# KSCS25FKSS00
Serial #SM0529082
Manufactured Jan 2002

1. Freezer Door Electrical Harness Repair 3 May 2008
by appliance repairman using butt splices (pressure only). 5 of 6 wires had broken approx 2 inches from the harness plug on bottom of freezer door. One of the wires came loose of the butt splice within a day.

2. I Subsequently re did the harness repair by using the following parts to create a removable harness component between the freezer and the chassis plug. Cost $2.50 plus a few spots of solder.

Philmore part:
.093 Male Housing #61-206
.093 Receptacle #61-246
Note: Spot solder only. No solder in connector
tips!

3. I had to trim the bottom grill with a razor to allow maximum movement of the wiring harness. Since I did not clamp the harness to the chassis there is maximum movement of the harness without twisting. I routed the harness in front of water line.

4. The cutout and harness at a distance are not noticable.

Hope this is useful!

Chris Rondestvedt, May 2008

This is just a "Me Too". Same problem, same "tough luck" response. I will not buy another Kitchenaid major appliance.

-D

Andrew Lynch, February 2008

sure enough i had the exact same problem. spliced 6 wires in and used heat shrink for a more permanent repair

eddy841, September 2007

I'm currently working on my wiring harness for the third time.
Had the unit since 2001.
Each time the wire is getting a little shorter.
Eventually the back panel on the door will have to come off.
I can't see any easy way to get the magnetic seal off or any
screws that keep the plastic inside attached to the outside of the
door. Has anyone done this? Thanks.

chuck, September 2007

What type of wire do you need to use to do the splicing? I have three broken wires.

Thanks.

Daniel, July 2007

Unfortunately Jodie I also have been expiriencing the same symtoms as your unit. Except my refrigerator failed (8) months after we purchased it and the repair was covered by the warranty. Now I am trying to fix it on my own. Well after it stopped working again for the secound time,about a year ago, I had since been putting off the repair because I thought I was having plumbing problems. Now having replaced water lines and shut off valve, bleeding lines, replacing filter,etc etc....I find out there is no voltage reaching the water on/off coil, to light in the compartment does not work,same symtoms as your refrigerator is expiriencing. FYI I thought you might have found a solution by now and would share it with me. Good Luck hope we solve this soon. KSCS25FKSS00 superba common problem. There should have been a recall on these models I do not know of any. Maybe Kitchen Aid will offer much deserved help.

Robert, June 2007

I am unable to get ice cubes or water from my dispensor!
Kitchenaid Superba Model.
I have been told that it may have a blowen fuse!... Is this possibly the problem? Thanks,

Jeff Crandell, June 2007

Same problem here. I think the model is from 2001 (sold to us with house since the wood panels match the cabinets). In my case, the light and dispensers on the door were all intermittent, and not at the same time (light on/water off or water on/light off). I followed the advice posted below. I had 5 wires that were totally severed!!! They were just touching, which is what gave the intermittent response. I re-connected and all seems to work.

Thanks for the help!

Mike, June 2007

Same problem here on a 2002 model. KA agreed to replace the door and pay for labor so it's now on order. If it comes in and is different stainless, it will go back. Based on what I've read, I'll just splice the broken wire and be done with it until it happens again. Broken wires are a safety concern....has anyone thought of contacting the Consumer Product Safety Board with this problem?

Doug, April 2007

Hello - I have a Kitchenaid with the same issue - light went out, then the ice and water, so I followed the advice from this blog. I took off the front grill to get access to the wire sleeve at the bottom of the freezer door, cut it open and sure enough, there were 3 broken wires. I spliced them together and everything works fine now! I recommend you all take a look in the wire sleeve first and call for a repair second if you don't see the problem.

DL, March 2007

My model number is KSCS25FJSS01 and I just had this same issue - all electricals on the front panel stopped functioning. The fridge was bought in 2001. Based on what I read on this webpage, I called Kitchenaid. After getting various conflicting opinions, I spoke to a Supervisor in Cust Service, guy by name of Eddie D. He claimed this wasn't a known design issue, not for this model and not for the ones you guys have been referring to either (KSCS25FK) In a nutshell, he said that after the warranty period, "it's your refrigerator" in other words, "it's your problem." I asked him if it's considered normal wear and tear for the wiring harness to break and he refused to answer. Will follow this up with the consumer forum on my local TV station. In the meanwhile I will attempt the fix described here.

Neville, February 2007

To fix the water/ice dispenser, KitchenAid has admitted the design problem. They will pay for the door but not the labor to replace the door. In my case it cost $159. If you have a stainless steel door be advised that that the grain pattern in the replacement door may not match the orginal grain pattern. In my case, the grain pattern in the replacement door is much coarser then the grain pattern in the orignal door. I was not advised of this potential problem when I ordered the door. KitchenAid refuses to fix this problem.

Bill, February 2007

RE: KitchenAid Refrigerator(s) Model KSCS25FKSS00, SS01, SS02, and all 25 cu/in. counter-depth models built 2001 or later.

Warning: To ALL owners of this specific model...and comparable models be VERY fore-warned.
I spent 2 hours last eve(17JAN2007) on the phone with "techs @ Whirlpool/Kitchenaid[WK].
This model (G_D knows how many other comparable models) are time-bombs!!! In my detailed/lenghty convo with WK
I learned the following:

1) Even the experienced techies will claim ignorance to the now publicly-known "door wiring harness, breaking-wire fault" problem. It IS a known issue 'mongst the water-cooler set. That's NOT the only issue here...sorry to say.

2) Whirlpool/Kitchenaid [WK] NOT unlike many manufacturers, follow a policy wherein, original bad/dysfunctional "parts" are replaced by "OEM" parts. In this process, part revisions/corrections are made and the original parts are listed as "obsolete."
This "slight-of-hand" approach allows the Original CompositeProduct Manufacturer to re-design/correct initial design flaws, offer necessary/important component "upgrades" and affords manufacturers like [WK] the license to forego recalls or Technical Upgrade Advisaries - because the product is no longer "ORIGINAL."
The problem lies in that until and when component fails (customarily OUT OF WARRANTY), the consumer pays for all services - INCLUDING PARTS and then...ugh labor! - despite the manufacturer's internal knowledge of flaws - in advance of the failure. There is NO requisite accountability or remorse with regard to the significant oversight on the part of the Whirlpool/Kitchenaid design/engineering/management teams.

3) I personally take issue with an intriguing component failure.
I've been without the service of my KSCS25FK**** for 3 weeks now. Two servicepersons later, a replaced evaporator fan motor & wiring harness, thermistors AND compressor check; I've been advised that the problem lies with the "box"...i.e. the Inverter Box (#17 on most diagrams). Mustering as much patience as possible, I agreed to contact [WK] directly.
Sears, Appliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, all had the same reference number listed (8201670) as the replacement part # for Original part # 2209324. Upon receipt of the part, my 3RD serviceman advised that the component was NOT compatible.

Since I'm in NO position to pay for or have patience to tolerate yet another service call - I insisted on answers. I eventually was able to speak with a technician @ [WK]. THEY were shocked & apologetic to learn - that because of my inquiry - they'd realized a "terrible" mistake.... They had issued an INCORRECT replacement part number(8201670 built-in models) for original part 2209324(counter-depth models)!!! To make matters worse, they advised that'll take some time to find the proper replacement AND will have to review all specs before advising/providing me the PROPER replacement part number!

4) While in conversation, I asked as to the "tech knowledge base" re: frequent concerns/flaws with this product. I was advised there were NO concerns regarding any of the counter-depth, KS+ models of KitchenAid refrigerators.
BASED on this website alone...I BEG TO DIFFER !!!

5) I was advised that original part number 2221536 (Control Board -Schematic 36) has been replaced with OEM part #4389211 - second revision. This component, also listed as obsolete, corrects a previous problem with "ice-balling by reducing the number of relays on board."
Again, EXCUSE ME!!! IF there is a KNOWN defect why not alert the consumer?????

Well, I've vented long enough. Thanks for you patience in advance. I'm currently awaiting revised product info - direct from [WK]. I DID notify Sears Parts & sundry repair clinics of the mistake...and, alas, must obey the laws of current-day politics. They didn't believe, and would check into the error....RIGHT AWAY....right! Guess I'll just accept the givens....they wouldn't lie to me...again.....Would They?
Just in case, watch for my next post.
Please respond if any of this touches a nerve with you & your experiences!
J.

J, January 2007

Thanks for the clear instructions - especially Doreen, January 2006! A half-hour and electrical tape sure beats $$$!

Jeannie H, December 2006

I just did the splicing myself. Your advice is much appreciated. I too hate this Kitchenaid stuff. Unfortunately, I bought all the way into the Superba line. I just replaced my dishwasher door tensioner last weekend. Luckily I bought some extended warranties as the dishwasher, refrigerator and convection oven all had issues within the first year of ownership. The only thig that hasn't broken several times is the gas cooktop which has very few complicated parts. I'm out of warranty now and imagine I'll be fixing them myself until I have to replace them all. I strongly steer anyone I know away from KITCHENAID!! Thanks again for the handy repair tip.

C. Newhart, September 2006

Had the exact same problem on the same model - two wires were broken at the door and needed to be spliced. Works perfect now!

TimB, May 2006

Yep, Same senario....... 4 wires broken.
Thanks for the recomendation

Jim, April 2006

We had Sears repair service come out today for this exact same problem - the guy charged $59.99 to tell us we would need to spend OVER $1000 on a new door. We decided to look for an answer online because the unit is only 4 years old. We found this website post, followed the steps and VOILA it's fixed...(we had 2 broken wires) THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Martha Levy, February 2006

Sept 2005, the entire panel (water, ice dispenser, and light) stopped working on our KitchenAid Superba, model #KSCS25FKSS00 just shy of it being installed for 3 years. We did not purchase an extended warranty, so I was holding off calling for a costly repair. I had run across this posting a couple of months ago and mentioned the potential of wires breaking to my husband.

Just today, he looked at this on our fridge and fixed it himself. He is not Mr. fix-it, so this has got to be easy for most to do.

This is what he did -
1 - unplug the door wiring harness from the chasis harness (which should eliminate the power to the door and the danger of shock)
2 - found the black mesh sheath ( 6 - 8") and removed it
3 - found 3 broken wires (out of the 6 total wires)
4 - spliced in approximately 2" of small sections of wire into each of the 3 broken wires
5 - used black electrical tape to tape the 6 wires together creating a harness/bundle
6 - then used a 7" cable tie to hold this new wiring harness to the chassis of the fridge
7 - There is now a lot more play in the wiring harness, where the original install, had these wires all bound up in the door and each open/close over the past 35 months, caused these wires to break.

The front panel now works beautifully

This is definitely a design flaw

Doreen, January 2006

Here is another with the same failure. Just started, the water dispenser is failing. I wiggled the wiring and it came back to live for a short time.
Purchased 12/2001 Kitchenaid Superba, counter-width, stainless S/S.

roger, January 2006

I have the same problem with my Kitchenaid. Kitchenaid paid for replacement door (which is the only way they can repair the wire breaks in thier POOR design). After waiting for 2 months I decided to fix it myself. I cut the wires (turn off the power!!!) as they came out of the door and spliced in a connector. I also cut the wires coming from the fridge side and also spliced in a connector. I then made a short 8" section with connectors on both sides. Now if a wire breaks I can simply replace the short section in a matter of minutes.
I agree thier design is terrible, and I can envision EVERY single model with this wiring configuration will break. Three of the 6 wires on mine were broken @ 2 years.
When the replacement door did come in, it had the same poor design for the wires (no improvements to the design), and it was black.. I ordered Stainless Steel. And the repair place would not give me the door anyway ... they said they had to install it. I really only want if for parts as I was not about to let them put in the same wire design... in two more years I;d be back to where I am now. I'd like to hear from you folks if a class action suit is formed... sign me up.
-Scott.

Scott, January 2006

Forgot to mention that the malfunction also happened on this fridge after 3 years of operation.

I have located a website that shows each section of the unit and a detailed parts list and replacement part order opportunity. Copy the hyperlink below into your browser and this may help you if you intend to repair yourself.

http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/whirlpool-parts/Whirlpool-Refrigerator-Parts/Whirlpool-Parts-KSCS25FKSS00.cfm?ad=google

Mark, January 2006

B Richards and Jodie

Thanks for your respective question and answer. In addition to myself, there have been several of this exact model in our building, and on other person we know that has the same model that has had it repaired 5 times under an extended warranty with Sears.

I spoke to Kitchen Aid and they were not the slightest bit interested in suggesting anything but a repair representative at $85/15 minutes. I also asked if there was any recall and was advised there was not.

There is most likely a global issues and design failure with this model and Kitchen Aid should step up to the plate and offer a fix at no charge that is not a patch fix but a permanent fix.

Perhaps the suggestion of a class action suite against Kitchen Aid may get their attention and perhaps this would be an insentive for KitchenAid to put their customers best interests before their own.

Mark, January 2006

I had exactly the same problem on the same unit with the same age. The problem is with the wires that leave the bottom of the freezer door and enter the chassis. The wires (in a black mesh casing) make a very tight bend and flex nearly 180 degrees as the door is opened/closed. The constant flexing (very bad design) eventually breaks the wires. In my unit the wire broke entirely (blue w/black stripe) so I simply spliced in a section of replacement wire - a 10 minute repair. It might take you an extra minute or two to figure out which wire is bad. You could also simply relace the harness, but that requires taking the door apart which looks difficult. Be careful and be sure to unplug the unit before attempting the repair - my broken wire was hot and would have shocked someone if touched.

b richards, September 2005

Coincidentally, we are having the exact same problem at the exact same time with the exact same model! Hoping someone has a good suggestion for this...

Brad Kurtz, July 2005