Hey All, I just wanted to add to Brian Turner's brilliant post from August 2010.
I, like many of you, have been suffering from the dying instrument console on my 51.5k Renault Megane Grand Scenic 2005. It started slowly and then built up to where it was off more often than it was on. On three occasions when the dash has come back on I noticed it had added 10k to my mileage!
So my Renault, which had 51.5 on the clock in Feb 2011 (when it was MOT'ed) now has 81.5k on the clock. I am a little grumpy about this.
Anyway, I read through this and many other forums, watched the Watchdog video and contacted Renault. Same story as the rest of you, they would change it for 100UKP.
But I was really peeved about this. It wasn't my fault they had produced a low standard component and yet they still wanted to make a little money out of me.
That's when I noticed Brian Turner's write-up. It all made perfect sense as the problem appeared to be aggravated by temperature (whether the dash was hot or cold) and, sure enough, if I started the car and the instrument cluster stayed off, a quick thump on top of the dash usually brought the lights back on.
So I started to investigate taking the instrument cluster out. At first I feared this would involve taking out the whole dash, but Renault told me the replacement should only take two hours to fit and it would take alot longer than that to remove and refit the dash. Somewhere else I read of someone taking the instrument casing off (from around the instrument cluster) by gently prizing off the top and bottom casings. I VERY gently probed around the top half of the casing and sure enough it came off without must bother. I repeated the process for the bottom section. The Instrument cluster was exposed in all its glory and, better still, the remaining screws needed to remove it were easily accessible (it's just two large black Torx screws, one either side of the instrument cluster).
So I ran the car for a week with the casing components left off. When the cluster failed to come on I would gently press the left-hand side of the RED connection block and "hey presto" the cluster would come back to life.
This corroborated what Brian Turner had been saying. Somewhere on the Instrument Console was a dodgy connection. To confirm the exact detail of Brian's post I would need to remove the instrument cluster and dismantle it.
So right here I should point out that I in no way took this lightly. I didn't want to screw up the car any more than it already was and I knew that Renault would not want to help once I had taken the instrument console to bits. But I was just so annoyed at having to pay for crappy workmanship that I decided to push on and see if my instrument panel also had the 'dry solder joint' as reported by Brian.
I started by disconnecting the battery. Then I unscrewed the two Torx screws holding the instrument panel in place. Next I tried to remove the two connector blocks, one RED, the other GREY. These were really fiddly as I had not encountered this type of block before. Both blocks are held in place by locking catches, the Grey one goes over the top of the block and it's action helps to raise and lower the connector into the socket. Even with the latch in the OFF position it was still a struggle to get the thing to release.
The RED block also had a latch but this one was on the top of the block and was more of a locking slider rather than a latch. This too was fiddly to get off, but in the end they both disconnected. I spent some time examining the action of both locking mechanisms so I would have some idea of the reverse process once they were ready to go back on.
With the connectors released and removed it was time to remove the instrument cluster. This assembly has a free floating hinge in the top corners. This helps you to swing up the console and slide it out of the hole while on it's "back".
I went back to my desk and examined the instrument cluster. There are six Torx screws holding the front colour lens in place, but it is not necessary to remove this to get at the circuit board. The plastic casing containing the circuit board is held together by four plastic clips, two at the top, two at the bottom. These can be GENTLY released to separate the two halves of the circuit board casing, exposing the circuit board.
The circuit board just lifts out and is not held in place by any screws or catches.
Turning over the circuit board I used a magnifying glass to inspect the solders, and in particular the two connections holding the copper coil component. Most of the soldered joints on this circuit board are flush but every now and again there was a random wire sticking out above the height of the other connections. One of the connections coming from the copper coil was such a connection, the other was flush soldered.
I inspected the wire connection to this coil and sure enough could see a clear 'crack' around the circumference of the wire and between the wire and it's solder joint.
At this point I should say that I photographed all this in Macro, but I can't find a way to post photos on this forum, which is a shame because a 'picture tells a thousand words' as they say.
Nothing else on the circuit board displayed this condition so I was fairly certain that I was seeing what Brian had written about.
Time to solder.
It goes without saying that you do not undertake the following unless you are confident at soldering. If you screw this up you will have to pay the whole 500 UKP (or whatever Renault are demanding) or you will need to go online and look for a replacement from a spare parts vendor (I did this and got quoted about 80UKP for a second hand replacement).
My original soldering kit was a bit past it, so I went to the local Maplin and bought a new kit (20 UKP for a soldering iron, stand, solder, solder removal pump and sponge). I then found some old boards attached to technology I was throwing out (in this case a hard drive) and tried a couple of de-soldering, re-soldering tasks. Once I was confident that my hand wasn't shaking too much I moved to the circuit board.
I de-soldered the joint (with the solder removal pump) and then re-soldered the joint. Total time to complete, about 5 minutes. I checked my work with the magnifying glass, took some more photos (sorry folks, I would be happy to post them) and then reversed the process for dismantling the instrument cluster.
Back out in the car I reassembled the cluster in place before tackling those nasty block connectors. It took me a couple of attempts to get them back into place and at that point I stopped with reconstructing the dash.
I want to test this solution for a couple of weeks before considering the job done, so I left off the instrument panel casing and just re-connected the battery.
When I climbed into the drivers seat I was greeted with 'Please insert your key card" (or whatever the exact message is). The main thing is that the console was live, so I hadn't made things worse. The car starts and runs normally and the console reports everything it should.
At this point I will let it sit for a couple of weeks to check the work. I also need to try and see what can be done about the extra 30k this fault put on my mileage (not happy about that).
I take no responsibility for any damage you may do to your vehicle should you choose to try and replicate my process.
But this proves Brian Turner's findings and also proves that lack of quality management is at least one cause of this fault. Total cost of this repair (assuming it turns out to be fixed) was 20UKP (for the soldering kit) and the time taken to remove and reassemble the instrument console.
I will try to remember to report back here in a couple of weeks to let you know how this fix is going.
BMAK, June 2011