What JD said but before you drive the vehicle pump the brake pedal and top up the reservoir as necessary with brake fluid between the upper and lower lines on the reservoir.
paul.p, March 2011
hi ther im changing my brake pads theres this ring of metal in the way with rubber on it its getting in the way of me putting the brakes on u now the the bit that flaps up and down its solid and wont move how can i fix the problem plz txt back asap
john jay, February 2010
ALLOW FOR EXPANSION AND SPILLAGE OF BRAKE FLUID IN RESERVOIR TO ALLOW FOR THICKER ( NEW ) PADS. IF A NOVICE, DONT MESS WITH BRAKES UNLESS YOU HAVE SPECIALIST GUIDENCE ON FIRST OCCASION. VERY DANGEROUS.
Francis Robert Charles, October 2009
Procedure for front brake pad replacement:
Make sure handbrake applied. Remove hub caps. With car on ground, loosen wheel nuts. Jack up front of car (using trolley jack or scissors jack supplied with car) and support with a pair of axle stands. Remove whheel nuts and take front wheels off. Remove the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper onto the hub. Support caliper while doing this - tie it to spring or suspension mounting bracket. Remove old pads from clips and caliper. May have to retract brake piston by pushing it back into its bore in the caliper. (Don't press brake predal at any stage!). Fit new pads. Note you have to replace them in axle sets - i.e. you have to do both front sets of pads at the same time. Apply a very samll amount of copper grease to BACK of pads to prevent brake squeal (also guide pins). Make sure not to get any grease on friction material (or it won't be a frictional material for long!).
Replace clips etc and re bolt caliper to hub. Guide pin bolts should be torqued to correct value (27Nm) with a torque wrench. Refit wheels and tighten wheel nuts finger tight. Remove axle stands and lower car to ground. Tighten wheel nuts to correct torque using torque wrench ( 104 Nm approx.)
