i have a peugeot 206 1.4 glx 1999 and i need to change the clutch can anybody tell me how easy or difficult it is please

mike johnston, September 2005

Just got a quote for a W reg 1.4, £180 from Mr Clutch with 2 yr warranty...

chap, September 2010

We just changed the whole set, and firs it didn't work. It seemed like the clutch would have been 'open' all the time. Then we took some piece off from the clutchcable (?), and now it works! There was no way to adjust the clutchcable. Then we wondered a little bit, could the clutchplate be backwards? Peugeot 206 guide says that if it's backwards, it doesn't work at all, but as it works now, it's ok?

Mari, September 2010

you dont need to compress the springs,a simple ball joint splitter and a bit of arm strength will see your hub lift off its joint and thyere is enough play still to get the drive shafts to leave the box.saves a bit of work really.

rick, July 2010

how do the cables adjust? self adjust?

johnny mac, August 2009

it is quite easy make sure you drop the subframe make it easy to get the gear box out

jona, August 2008

I've just done a 99 206 1.1L. - here's how.
You need - 2 axle stands, at least 2 or 3 jacks, wood blocks,socket set, pry bar, hex - socket set, spanners, bowl for oil,drain plug spanner set.
also - New Clutch, New Transmission fluid.

Steps as follows - Jack up offside and remove wheel, undo front wheel arch screws and remove. Front up on axle stands on each side of body, loosen front suspension bolts, undo suspension strut bottom bolt & pry off ball joint, If you have a spring compresor use it or even ratchet straps work, or a jack and wood on the base of spring.
Position bowl under gearbox diff & pull whole assembly to remove driveshaft from gearbox.
Repeat on other side, but there are 2 retaining bolts on a mid bearing to undo.
From the top, remove battery, air cleaner and associated pipework ( one clip at air inlet), all plugs and wiring from the bell housing.
Pull off clutch cable from fork.
Remove battery tray.
Unbolt starter.
use snipenose pliers to pop off gear selector connectors near the bulkhead - not at the bellhousing end.
Check all is clear.
Place scissor jack and wood under engine sump, use another jack under gearbox.
loosen all cap head bolts around bellhousing that hold it to the engine - check very carefully that you havent missed one.
Remove crank sensor.
undo the gearbox mounting bolt, and remove the plate that it's on.
Ease gearbox off the engine and lower enough to get to the clutch. - A fair bit of adjustment is needed on both jacks to manouver things about - watch out for leaks from coolant hoses etc.
Unbolt clutch housing in 1/4 turn increments as it is under spring pressure.
Follow clutch fitting instructions. Make sure new plate is correct way round and Always replace the release bearing.
Clean area with a meths rag and clean splines - do not grease.
Check for oil leaks.
Ready to put it all back?
Bellhousing on, bolts tight.
Starter on, gearbox mounting plate and fixing on and torqued.
Clutch cable on.
Check operation of clutch at this point (you may have to adjust cable)
Driveshafts back in, and then suspension.
Refill transmission - (note quantities- don't overfill - under is better if you don't know)
Battery tray on with all electrics.
Air filter and battery on. (reset radio code)

Off stands. - check fluid levels - coolant etc.
Try out (adjust clutch cable)

Congratulate yourself you've saved over £300.

Richard Perkins, December 2006