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clutch replacement Daewoo matiz?

Can a competent person replace a cluch in a Daewoo Matiz without need for a hoist or special tools etc?
Kennyg, October 2008
You haven't answered my question

Kevin, December 2017
Hi I was wondering if u could help when I was driving my Daewoo the engine manerment light came on I lost a little power and I had a little rattleing noise in side my car on top the dash board by my steering wheel plus when I am driving and want to change gears like from first to second it makes a little gungeing noise then it goes in to second when I really force it in would that be the clutch or the gear selecter

Kevin, December 2017
Yes a mechanically competent person with a good set of spanners/sockets and a ball joint splitter can replace a matiz (original model) clutch.
It will take all day and is fiddly getting to certain of the nuts and bolts, especially at the back of the engine compartment. You will need to work from above and beneath the engine compartment.
Make sure axle stands are safe and secure and car chocked.
Download the workshop manual on line for free and follow the instructions first for the removal of driveshafts and transaxle assembly, then clutch replacement sections.
Tip. you do have to remove the drive shaft inner ends but not outer ends, the drive axle to hub caulking bolt does not have to be removed as stated but the hub lower nut and steering ball joint need to be removed along with the front under longitudinal frames. By pulling the hub outward the driveshaft inner end can be levered free and the driveshaft twisted down and forward (turn the hub assembly so as not to put strain on the joints andrubber boots) protect the released end with a bag to stop ingress of dirt and suspend out of the way.
removal of air filter, battery and tray (worth doing the tray as it gives better access), gear change outer cables, electric connectors, speedo cable nut and clutch cable, is straight forward. Removal of starter motor mount bolts and access to the gear change bracket bolts is fiddly but doable (knuckle scrapes and anglo saxon expletives will occur!).
The remaing bolts are easy.
you do not need to remove the exhaust pipe to manifold nuts as there is enough play when tilting the engine to remove the transaxle assembly.
The engine as a whole does need to be tilted down at the trransaxle end to give enough room to remove the box. I found that the whole supported itself on the remaining three engine mounts with a little help of a jack under the engine just in case. In fact I had to release the bolt from the engine block lower mounting (by the alternator) to actually get enough tilt.
The transaxle should now pull/lever straight off and can be lowered to the ground with a little deft twisting. I would say it weighs the same as a 25 kg bag of sand.
Clutch plate, cover and release bearing replacement is straight forward but you must ensure the new clutch plate is well centered. If it is a little bit out of centre you will not be able to reattach the transaxle assembly.
Make or borrow a centring tool. I made one out of a hotpoint washing machine transit bolt ten mm copper tubing (thats the size of the flywheel input shaft bearing) and a 42mm plastic pushfit plumbing blanking plug! Be ingenious using all those "I'll keep that it might be useful one day" bits and pieces in your garage.
At this point I stopped for lunch.
Replacing the transaxle assembly was helped by a second pair of hands pushing it up into place by jack whilst I positioned it in generally the right position. With a little zumba wiggle and push it wiil eventually fit in place - if you centred the clutch plate correctly. Get a couple of bolts back in to hold in place and reassembly is a reverse of dismantling.
Dont forget to refill the gearbox with oil.
Check you havent trapped any electric cables.
Be methodical about checking all bolts are replaced correctly not only on the transaxle assembly but also the front suspension. You will be tired by now it is easy to make a mistake. Have a cup of tea and check twice.
Now the scary bit turning the ignition, listening for strange noises and taking her for a test ride. I was pleasantly suprised, all went well.
It took me all day 9-7pm with 3 breaks totalling an hour. I had the help of my 15 yr old son for half a day - until his girlfriend arrived. I worked on my driveway and for 2hrs it pissed down with rain apart from that all was as I expected. I laid in the bath afterwards easing my 52 yr old joints, thinking of the hundreds of pounds saved on the garage quotes. Ahhh bliss.
Total cost = 10hrs and £60 for parts (bought online and delivered next day from the excellent eurocarparts.com).
Am I a mechanic? No. Just a competent DIYer.
Tools required 8,10,12,14,17,19,24mm sockets set of similar spanners various pliers and screwdrivers, a ball joint splitter and home made clutch centring tool.
Rags and containers for nuts and bolts.

Banthorpebob, September 2011
My gearbox has gone stiff. The clutch seems hard when pressing. I'm not sure whether it is the clutch or the cable. Can anyone give me an estimate for a clutch replacement on a Matiz SE? Thanks a lot.

Maxwell, October 2010
i am struggling to get the gearbox seperated from engine in order to fi clutch.dropped n/s eng mtgetc tried too clear ns bulkhead to no avail ?

colin, June 2010
how can i do my clutch in my daewoo matiz

tommy, October 2009
Did you need to have the power unit out, Glen, or can it be done without.

David.

David., December 2008
yes mate done mine a easy home job

glen, October 2008
link Click here to see other fixes for Daewoo Matiz.