I hope you don't feel this is condescending towards your intelligence.
Sorry but it could be any reason from electrics,to fuel.
test list in and old fiesta book.
fuel-- empty tank,
blocked jets or blocked injectors if fuel injection engine,
flat battery,plugs, plug leads, coil lead, coil, distributor cap, rotor arm, and the worst senario the timing belt.
that's why the answer sheet is so long
Test One
Turn on the ignition. Is there a light on the dashboard? No then you either have a flat battery which takes at least 48hrs OFF the car charge (never charge a battery connected to the car). Or one or two leads have come off or broken on or near the soliniod
Check the leads on the solinoid on top of the starter motor make sure they are secure including the battery positive lead which gives power to the solinoid then starter. On my daughters old fiesta the ignition lead broke so there were no lights on the dashboard and nothing happened when the key was turned to start.
Test Two!: before buying anything new.
In day time unclip the distributor cap examin the end of the rotor in the middle of the distributor. If it look reasonably clean leave it in but rub a clean rag over the brass top. Then try to turn it by had. If it turns round and round the timing belt or distributor drive has broken.
Then look inside the plastic cap at the four segments and wipe them clean. Have a look and the carbon poking out of the middle that is usually clean. check alround the inside of the cap for thin black lines called 'Tracking lines'. these are cause by a runaway spark which goes around the inside of the cap instead of down the plug lead/s. If it's clear of black line or cracks then it's most likely ok, so replace it.
In dark get someone to turn the key and you look at the distributor and plug leads for runaway sparks or spark leakage. Note which are suspect. If more than one lead think of replacing them all.[winters coming]
If your spark plugs are old think of new ones. but take old one with you.
If you are to carry out a test you will need the following.
A plug lead spark tester. [One only use one for all plugs in turn].
A coil lead tester or a new coil lead.
Oh! and if your plugs are really old and burnt on the ends then a new set is a must.
And migh I suggest you pull the rotor off take that with you and buy another it's a push/pull fit and on fits in on position because the lug inside the rotor base has to line up with the slot in the distributor shaft.
Testing the leads:
Now take off one plug lead and fit the tester on the plug then replace the plug lead on the tester. Get some one to turn the engine over while you watch the tester for a spark. Note test results. Carry out the same for each plug.
Test the coil lead next:
Remove the lead from the distributor cap hold it with a well insulated screw driver or a plastic ruler about 12-15mm away from a bare metal part of the engine [NOT THE CARBURETTOR]
Note the test result.
I'll assume no spark. Remove the old lead from the coil clean the inner terminal and fit the new lead you purchased into the coil and carry out another spark test on the new cable.
We'll assume it works so connect the coil lead to the distributor pushing it well home. then start car. if it goes great if it struggles to star then fit the new spark plugs.
DO ONE AT A TIME SO YOU DON'T MIX THE FIRING SEQUENCE. WHICH I BELEIVE IS 1, 2, 4, 3 FROM RIGHT SITTING IN CAR DRIVER SIDE IS 1
However if there is still no spark then it may be the coil needs replacing. confused? then let me know what robertwhiting76@hotmail.com
BELEIVE OR NOT THIS WAS SPACED FOR EASY READING BUT THE PROGRAM IT'S ON DOESN'T SEEM TO ALLOW SPACING.
Bob, October 2005
