Some machines test the motor rotation on power up and if this is abnormal they simply abort the program. Check out the carbon brushes in the motor. Theyre graphite blocks which transfer mains power to the copper segments of the motor - located at the other end of the motor from the drive pulley. Theyre probably worn down. They're quite cheap parts and easy to replace - the holders are plastic or bakelite and are generally held in with screws or plastic clips. Also, look at the copper segments they run on to check for burning or pitting. If the segments are burnt or damaged you need a replacement motor or a replacement armature (motor part) if you can source one. Occasionally may be a fault in the motor drive circuit board - in which case replacement of board only real option. Check the wires in the motor plug - these are notorious for breaking internally so give each one a tug. The older Hotpoint models had a motor choke with a pink and gray wire connecting it to the motor; if you have one of these the pink wire is normally the culprit. The timer can cause problems of this type, check for burnt connections or of course it could be an internal break in the motor itself which would require replacement of the motor. Check the tacho coil for breakages in the connections. The tacho coil is a small generator coil on the end of the motor which provides a voltage proportional to the speed of the motor. This voltage is fed back to the speed control module to enable the machine to check the rotation, direction and speed of the motor. If the machine goes into spin as soon as you turn it on, the tacho coil on the motor is faulty or come off, sometimes the screw holding it on has just come undone and it has fallen off or the outer casing has come adrift.
Other possible causes of spin problems: Faulty pressure switch - machine "thinks" the drum is still full of water so wont enter the spin cycle. An easy way to check is to remove the hose connected to the pressure switch and listen for a click, this will happen the instant the hose is removed so be aware, if you hear a click it means the switch has reset so the pressure chamber is blocked, which will require you to remove it an clean it out. If there is no click either you missed it or the switch contacts are welded together. To test the switch you may have to remove it because you will need to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks as the different levels set. Be aware that some of the older machines have multi level switches, whilst the newer ones only have a single level. Spin problems may also be caused if the machine reckons the load is out of balance, rearrange the load. If problem persists could possibly be a fault in the out of balance detector switch or the suspension and damping system.
Repair and service your own washing machine. Go to www.2ndwave.co.uk/manual.html
dannyboy, October 2008
