I've removed the 5 screws but can't separate the base from the body -are there some internal clips holding things together? Advice welcome please

Solo, November 2008

You have to go through the machine. Start with the mixing bowl. Involving; the 8 screw at the bottom, the element restraint screw, then you have to remove the bolt holding the thermostat to the bowl, then walk the whole bowl out. A flat blade screw driver is your friend here as there are stickie out bits they you have to clear. Then you have the housing screws exposed in the bottom of the machine. Patience is key and 2 screw drivers one Philips and a flat, conveniently shorter than the housing and bigger than the wiring. Good luck. 3 hours, next time I will buy a machine where I can get to the drive belt easier

Christian, September 2022

For a quick repair carefully cut around the raised section which shields the drive underneath, along the line where it rises from the base, with a hot knife, Dremel or jigsaw. Replace the belt, and glue or tape ( easier to replace in the future) the section back on if you wish, although it's underneath and not visible or accessible. They're obviously designed not to be repairable, by using unusual and inaccessible screws, so that the most common fail - the drive belt - could lead many to replace an otherwise functioning machine. I'd never buy anything from MR again.

Alan, June 2022

Anyone know which three female threads the three black spacers go on between the base and the motor plate? It's a 48280.

Bob McNair, March 2021

It's not an answer, but I still think this is the place to post it, since someone here had successfully taken apart the 48268 model. Could someone please tell me the steps involved? There are obvious screws at the top and some at the bottom of the bread pan compartment. But are there screws at the bottom of the unit? Are there screws underneat the feet?
Any information would be appreciated. And indeed - never again would I buy a Morphy Richards.

img, March 2020

All in all the amount of damage done in removing the plastic/metal to replace the drive belt makes it a good reason not to buy another Morphy Richards bread maker. The drive belf shoud be easy to replace. )-:

nick, February 2020

Hi All,
Having just taken our old 48268 Morphy Richard fast bake breadmaker to pieces and found its drive belt had died and disintegrated into a ball of strings and crumbled plastic bits Hmmm!
Having then phoned Morphy Richards direct, I was told that they wouldn't sell me a replacement belt, "as they couldn't be certain that I was qualified to do the repair", ( N.b. I am an old and retired time served motor engineer), But still "No they wouldn't supply me"!!

I asked to speak to the Managing Director? but, "Err No the top managers don't take telephone calls", but "a supervisor would phone me back tomorrow" GGRRR! I asked "If you went out to your car tonight and it would start because say its timing belt had broken, would you expect to have to scrap the car because the maker wouldn't sell you a new belt"??
I gave up AND WILL NEVER BUY ANYTHING FROM MORPHY RICHARDS EVER AGAIN!

Since which I found.. https://www.beltingonline.com who are supplying a new belt for £12 including VAT P&P.

Good luck Guys

Keith, March 2019

I have just replaced the belt of my bread maker - followed the process as above, bit tricky removing the internal tin but levering it out slowly it came free - £5 for a new belt, a simple fix TBH

TJ, November 2018

Most of the screws inside the tin had rusted in place on mine and there was no room to drill them out. Fortunately I discovered that you can lever out the surround from around the tin - it came out relatively easily and no parts broke, although the lip of the tin may need to be bent back into perfect shape. After removing the surround, the base of the unit could be unscrewed and levered off (there are clips all the way around) then the entire base and tin come out as one. After that, the addition screws internal to the base could be unscrewed to allow access to the belt. I'm waiting for the new belt to be delivered before putting it all back together again. In short, levering out the suround from around the top of the tin is another alternative to unscrewed all the screws at the bottom of the tin.

Simon Card, August 2018

Where did you buy the belt

Adrian, January 2015

It is not necessary to remove the paddle driver as claimed by Solo. Firstly, remove the 5 screws underneath the unit which hold the base on. The 2 special screws (a slot with a bump in the middle) can be removed using pointed pliers. Then, inside the heater chamber, remove the top screw which holds the element to the white insulator. Then remove the 8 screws around the bottom of the heater chamber. Prise the base from the main body which can now be lifted up. To detach completely, you will need to disconnect the display panel cable from the circuit board. To do this, you need to first peel off the rubbery stuff which holds the connector together. I marked both halves of the connector to ensure putting it back together the right way.

I found this video useful:
http://youtu.be/44PHthqoOQY

RobertInFrance, February 2014

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63_TLcJc1ro

crown, December 2013

Thank you people, I had the same problem. And your posts helped me in opening the breadmaker. Even I had the same problem, the derive belt had to be replaced.
(Rizvi from India)

Rizvi, March 2013

Hi. I need to replace the drive belt on my machine. How do you remove the paddle driver? It looks like some special tool might be needed. Thanks in advance.

Tommo, May 2011

Perseverance pays! I've answererd my own question. There's only one way and that is to take it to bits from the top, removing the paddle driver and then the metal bowl (8 screws) around the element which allows access to the innards. There are clips holding the base to the body which can only be released after doing the above.

Solo, November 2008