Ok, here goes the garage method. Jack up the car on the side to be changed, ensure its secure. remove the roadwheel, disconnect the track rod end( splitter equired) and the lower strut swivel ( you will need a TORX tool to undo the lower clamp bolt and have to lever down the lower arm to slide the swivel pin from the clamp). Cut off the old boot and remove all of the old grease and dirt from the coupling. Looking along the driveshaft into the coupling you will see a circlip hiding in the grot, spring this clip open and with a bit of help from a friend pull the disk brake and strut assembly away from the drive shaft ensuring the drive shaft stays fitted to the gearbox. Completley clean out old coupling and slide the new boot along the drive shaft, narrow end first. Take the grease sachet supplied with the boot kit and empty the contents into the hole where the driveshaft is to be refitted. line up the drive shaft ( help required) with the strut assembly and push the two together hard, the circlip self locates on assembly but make sure it physically clicks into place. As the drive shaft slides into the coupling the grease will be forced into the coupling and back through the cruciform thus ensuring that all the grease is in the coupling and not in the boot. With a bit of heaving refit the lower swivel end ensure tightened correctly, refit the track rod end and ensure secure. Ensure the new boot is fitted into the locating groove of the coupling and secure with the kit strap, fit a strap on the narrow end of the boot and job done. If you can do this on a ramp you are looking at about half an hour a side, but of course a dealer will charge you for a couple of hours. Good luck.
Lofty, November 2005
