In first instance I'm looking for advice re the procedure to pull this front-loading unit apart. I have the top panel off (by removing two screws at top of rear panel and then sliding the panel to the back).

I have an ugly clunking noise coming from the drum when the machine goes into spin - not sure if it also occurred on wash cycle and it sounds too damaging to want to experiment.

Spider and bearing seem fine and steady via checking drum rotation by hand - though I'm new to washer repairs. There is word of a bra underwire lost in it some time back! I can't reproduce noise via a power-off hand spin of the empty drum. Machine is just over 5 years old and use has not been heavy - just the two of us!

Sean in Brisbane, Australia, January 2009

Slack of me not to have posted a follow-up to this.

Had some help from bro-in-law and we lifted the machine up on a table to be able to look underneath. In the process we discovered some bit of wire lying on the floor under the machine.

Turned out that the belt was in very bad shape - but still in place and hanging together so it was still driving the drum. Easy to diy-fix by ordering a new belt. However, the belt had grabbed onto, pulled out and chewed up 3 or 4 wires from the wiring harness. Again not too hard to replace - if one had access to a wiring diagram. My efforts to access a wiring diagram were unsuccessful - so ended up having to take it to a Simpson/Electrolux authorised repair place.

History:
- Oct 2003: purchased (with only the standard manufacturer warranty of two years) $615 plus $30 delivery
- Jan 2006: problem that it failed to spin - Electrolux repairer replaced timer under warranty - although this had just expired
- Jan 2009: above problem - drive-belt replaced and wiring damaged by drive-belt replaced in workshop at Electrolux approved repairer $150 plus $30 for new drive-belt.
- Oct 2009: problem with cold water valve - symptoms of soap powder not being flushed into wash properly and especially fabric softener not being flushed - (fabric softener container full of watery mix at end of cycle) - diagnosed faulty solenoid so ordered replacement "valve inlet cold water" from Electrolux and replaced. Hooray finally a DIY result. Cost: $56.05 incl freight of $14.95

Sean in Brisbane, June 2010

To change the bearing(s) and/or seal on a Simpson 45S100C 5.5kg Front loading washing machine:
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1) Disconnect from the power, water etc. and find your self some space;
2) Remove the lid (two screws at back of machine) and the back panel. I also took off the concrete weight on top to give myself some more room and less weight to move;
3) Remove the fan belt;
4) Unscrew the bolt on the end of the drive shaft. This holds the pulley in place;
5) The pulley is pushed on to a V-bushing. It may be very hard to get off. I found the easiest way was to put a large screwdriver behind the pulley hub and the 'spider' bracket behind. Then use leverage to pop it off. The V-bushing should then slide off the shaft;
6) Remove the three bolts that hold the ends of the spider to the drum. I found these very hard to get moving and they are also awkwardly placed. Use a socket set and you may need a bit of rust-remover/degreaser (WD-40 in Australia);
7) Remove the three bolts holding the central part of the spider to the drum;
8) Tap the end of the drive shaft with a hammer while pulling on the spider. The whole spider and the bearings should slide off the shaft;
9) The spider holds two bearings (one next to the drum and one next to the pulley). I’d recommend replacing both. In my case and apparently in most cases it is the bearing closest to the drum that gets damaged, usually due to water leaking through the drive-shaft seal. The two bearings are different sizes 6205 and 6206. When ordering replacements, I’d recommend rubber sealed ‘RS’ bearings. There is also a shaft seal that sits between the larger bearing and the tub. The seal comes from Simpson ($25). The bearing can be bought from any bearing supply company and are about half the cost of the ‘official’ bearings, and probably better quality. I paid $16 for the 6205 and $20 for the 6206;
10) Knock out the old bearings. The correct way to do this is with bearing pullers etc, but I used a long steel rod (one of the transport locking rods that new machine’s come with) and a hammer (not even rubber). First knock out the large bearing and the drive shaft seal by inserting the rod through from the other bearing side and hit firmly while alternating the position of the force around the case of the bearing. I propped the spider against a brick to ensure the bearing and seal could pop out freely. Now turn around and repeat for the other bearing;
11) Clean up the spider and shaft, ensuring you remove any rust and debris;
12) Tap the new bearings into place. Again I used a hammer and firm tapping around the ring of the bearing;
13) Tap in the new drive shaft seal;
14) Reassemble.

HAL2100, April 2009

To answer my own question. Yes you can and I have done so on a 45S100C (5.5kg).
This is quite easy if you have some basic tools and the spare parts. After having read some of the stories on the web about how difficult some machines are, I approached this with some trepidation. But in the end it was all too easy (apart from some confusion with ordering parts). Total cost $60, for two bearings and the drive shaft seal. Only one bearing was damaged, but better to be safe than sorry, so I replaced both. Instructions to follow.

HAL2100, April 2009

I have the same problem. Is the bearing repaceable on Simpson front loaders?

HAL2100, March 2009

Hi Sean, Just had a laugh after reading the answer on your last post. Sorry I can't help with the front loader as I haven't done one of these myself. Hope someone else can advise you. Best of luck.

Lincoln Appliance NZ, January 2009