I've got a Whirlpool AWZ7913 condensing tumble dryer that's stopped heating 3 weeks after the warranty expired. I've metered 238V AC being passed to the heater unit from the switch and there's continuity between the + and - terminals across the heater unit. There's 3 sensors in the heater, 2 in line with the heater and 1 on a separate circuit, all of which have continuity although 1 shows 28Kohm resistance, significantly higher than the others.
Q1 - Is there a wiring schematic and specs for the components involved in the heater circuits so I can meter these out to check for a failed component?
Q2 - Are there any other components such as exhaust temp fuse/sensor that would prevent heating? If so, where is this in the dryer? I would have thought that a failure of this would stop power to the heater completely.
Q3 - Do you have any other advice?
I don't want to replace the whole heater unit at £80 to 150GBP only to find there's a secret fuse that's stopping the machine.
Thanks

Simon, January 2009

God i love the internet and people who take the time and trouble to pass on helpful information to others. i was on the point of scrapping my dryer despite the fact that the element tested ok. I would never have found this sensor if not for Simon's article. Sensor removed and cleaned and dryer working again, RESULT!!
Thanks guys

john, February 2016

Thank You I was looking at buying a heater of ebay for £125 and tried to find it cheaper and come across this page. Like brand new now thank you Daniel and Simon.

alan, October 2013

Thanks For this i have now fixed my dryer i cleaned the panel in the drum behind the filter thanks for your help guys http://www.autotradersonline.co.uk

Daniel, June 2012

There's a panel inside the dryer drum below and behind the fluff filter, that has two metal strips built into it. The panel has 3 screws holding it in place. The strips are something to do with the dampness sensor function that will cut power to the heater if there's insufficient dampness in the dryer (i.e. your clothes are dry.
The panel is not a great fit and fluff can accumulate behind this effectively shorting the function of the strips and cutting out power to the heater.
I've removed this, disconnected the wires thet connect to the metal strip and given the whole thing a good clean. The heater now works again, but watch out when testing. You will get about 5 seconds of power to the heater before it cuts out if there's no dampness in the dryer (the sensor is quite effective!) so run tests with damp stuff inside the machine or you'll be left scratching your head.

Also, don't bypass the any sensors by simply connecting the wires together. These all go back to the control panel and the best you'll get is an error with the filter/heat exchanger/water collection warning lights flashing. The worst case is you'll overdrive the control switch.

Simon, February 2009

contact www.whirlepool.co.uk
Tell them as it's only 3weeks after warranty then in priciple they should afford a repair.

Don't say you've been testing it If that meant taking the back panels off, just the plug and using a power locator along the cable to ensure power is getting to the machine/ or red power light is on.

If you get no joy then give em a nudge with 'And I thought products with the Whirlpool name were reliable I've obviously got it wrong'.
Ask for head office address and write in to the Managing director. Don't mess about it's bad when things break down so soon. put in the letter 'it doesn't encourage recomendation of Whirlepool white goods. [refering to all appliances] Hope it works and you get it repaired or replaced without any cost, except a stamp if necessary. Been their done that.

Nobby, January 2009