I have checked the ht coil for continuity and it reads 2.6ohms. there no points accessable so assume it must be electronic, is this true? and where is the majic box. weve tried to get the flywheel off but it wont budge. I have no idea of the model, the engine is a 4 stroke with a horisontal cylinder and the flyweel on top.any ideas?

brian gilks, March 2009

How to refit my honda engine to 'my c 8 rotorvator

derek ames, August 2013

If there are wires leading under the flywheel from the coil, the engine has points. if not, it doesn't.

If there are points, remove flywheel using procedure as suggested, but take measures to protect the thread on the end of the crank.

If there are no points, then the coil (mounted outside the flywheel) is the only component in the system apart from the plug and cut-out switch(es).

Coils DO fail - quite regularly in fact - about 1 in 5 ignition problems on an electronic ignition engine is a coil falure. Points type coils are inherently more reliable, but the newest of them will now be 20+ years old, and moisture will have compromised most of them by now.

You can replace the points with an electronic module and retain the coil (if good), or you can replace the entire coil with an electronic version (cut the wire going to the points). Either of these is 'fit and forget'

Phil Saunders, March 2009

SOUNDS LIKE BRIGGS AND STRATTON 3.5 HP. depending what type of recoil starter it has the flywheel removal is different. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE FLYWHHEEL as the points are under. THE COIL NEVER FAILS- EVER. if you have PULL UP RECOIL starter- undo the flywheel bolt with a socket and a piece of wood jamming it from turning. IF YOU HAVE A RECOIL STARTER ON TOP ENGINE remove the tiny bolts holding the mesh screen, tap the freewheel cover off/up. remove the drive and ball bearings, SPRAY WD 40 INTO CHAMBER use a large box spanner to fit inside freewheel drive. block flywheel from turning and unscrew chamber( anticlockwise) SPRAY MORE WD40 ONTO THREAD OF FLYWHEEL. pry edge of flywheel up with a tyre lever and give a sharp wack with a copper mallet on crankshaft- THIS ALWAYS WORKS AND DONT USE A PULLER THE FLYWHHEL WOULD CRACK. under the flyweel is a small alloy cover with 2 tiny bolts. remove it. the points will need cleaning with a nail file- REMOVE ALL grit with a clean hankie. the points gap should be 15 thou- .015 inch. the condenser hardly ever fails so its unlikely you'd need new.when you refit parts DON'T OIL BALL BEARING AS THEY WOULD STICK . spray wd40 on them. tighten flywheel properly and dont loose flywheel key. if flywheel isn't tight the key will shear. also check engine cut out on carb is not earthing out. - JOB DONE

BOMBALINO, March 2009