The timing marks on the 2.8TD are as follows. Rough guide on how to fit the timing belt as well! Hope it helps! Firstly Remove the all the covers, radiator, grille, viscous fan, rocker cover plastic cover and insulation beneath it. Using a socket and ratchet on the fanbelt tensioner, release tension on the belt and remove the fanbelt. Leave the battery connected for the time being. If the timing belt hasnt snapped and it's just a routine belt change, then fit a strong arm with 36mm impact socket onto the crankshaft pulley, rest the strong arm onto the chassis on the passenger side (right hand drive vehicle). Then crank the engine on the key while everyone stands well clear. This WILL loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt enough for an impact wrench to drag it out. once out, a few blows around the edges of the pulley will remove the pulley from the crankshaft itself. Disconnect the battery now. The timing belt tensioner needs a 17mm socket to release the nut in it's centre, then a 13mm socket to release the pivot bolt northwest of the centre nut. loosen both nut and bolt. Remove the timing belt and if you have bought new pulleys, now is the time to fit them. Once fitted (if you are fitting them) use the following to line up all 3 marks. Camshaft = a small triangular notch on on the back of the pulley lines up with a 4/5mm long line cast into the rocker cover just behind the pulley. Fuel Pump = there are two holes (one in the pulley and one behind it) which line up (stick the plain end of a drill bit in here to keep the pulley secure and prevent it turning while you get the belt on. Crankshaft = pain in the arse! = forget looking around the crankshaft pulley! on the bellhousing - yes, the bellhousing!, on the drivers side (right hand drive) at about the 3 0'clock position looking from the back of the van to the front, there is a small (6mm) hole which leads onto the side of the flywheel. insert a pin (5/6mm) into here and crank (hand crank obviously!) the engine until the pin locates into a hole in the side of the flywheel. This equates to the cylinder no1 being at TDC. Back to the crankshaft pulley - the timing belt pulley obviously, as the fanbelt pulley has been removed! - the pulley is keyed onto the crankshaft, and you will notice that there is a small (4mm ish) hole on the face of the pulley. This should be facing directly downwards now that the flywheel is lined up correctly. Fit the belt in the order - CAMSHAFT PULLEY, CLOCKWISE ROUND JOCKEY WHEEL THEN FUEL PUMP, THEN BACK ANTICLOCKWISE ROUND THE TENSIONER AND UNDER THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY. Remove the pin on the fuel pump AND the pin in the flywheel. Make sure you have both of these pins in your hand before carrying on! Recheck all the marks are still inline then HAND CRANK the engine after refitting the crankshaft pulley and central bolt (the one needing a 36mm socket) a full four turns at the crankshaft. Wear gloves while hand cranking - you will find out why when you do it! This will give both the fuel pump and the camshaft a full 2 turns. During the hand crank, you will feel the engine compression and then it will release. If you feel excess pressure while handcranking, which does not rapidly release after 1/8th (ISH) of a turn, then the pistons may well be hitting the valvegear, in which case you haven't read the above correctly! After you have handcranked the engine and are happy it's compressing and not fouling, feel free to shift everything out of the way, reconnect the battery and start it up on the key. 10 seconds running will not harm the engine (remember you have no coolant, radiator, fan etc fitted yet!) but any longer will start to do damage. If it fires and runs for a few seconds, then your timing is good, so rebuild the thing, add coolant and it should run fine then! Best of luck with it, and feel free to get in touch if you need to! - 07743 958 886
Dave Woolhouse 07743 958 886, September 2011
