No. Remove the battery and battery tray, the air piping and air filter housing.
Jack up the vehicle, remove the front wheels. Remove the front brake calipers and mounting yokes.
Remove the wheel hub nut on each side (35mm) and then remove the bolt that holds the ball joints into the suspension struts.
Free the ball joints from the struts. Free the tie-rod ends / steering rack ends from the struts.
under the place a drip pan under the gearbox, remove the passenger side drive shaft.
On the driver side drive shaft there is usually a bearing half way along the shaft with two bolts pinning it into the housing - remove the nuts on those two bolts (10mm).
The remove the driver side drive shaft.
Remove the starter motor, disconnect reverse switch, crank position sensor.
Unclip the gear selector link from the knuckle joints.
Remove the gearbox mounting that sits under the battery tray.
Remove all the bolts that hold the gearbox to the engine and remove the box.
Please do yourself a very great favour - when you replace the clutch, replace the release bearing/thrust bearing AND the guide bush (the guide bush costs peanuts and is only 3 x 10mm bolts holding it).
Refitting is simply the reverse of the above procedure.
Once you're finished and fully assembled refill the gearbox with 2.5 litres of gearbox oil (use a 22mm tube socket to remove the reverse switch - easiest method).
When you are refitting the gearlinkage onto the knuckle joints put some graphite grease into the gear linkages before clipping them back in place - the 206 never had the smoothest gear change even when new but this helps to improve it a little.
When you re-fit the nut to the end of the drive shaft after putting it back through the hub, tighten the 35mm nut to 220 Nm of torque - any less and you'll get premature wheel bearing failure in the future.
Sean, October 2009
