On my 'R' reg 1.9 TDi, I used a stubby star screwdriver to take out the two screws that are on the upper side of the plastic facia of the instrument panel. The oval shaped facia can then be pulled out. The instrument panel itself could then be eased out (after removing the screw in each of the top corners. I found it easier to adjust the steering column to its lowest setting to give a bit more room. There is a lever underneath that allows adjustment.) This gave me access to the bulbs. Refitting is simply the reverse. I made sure the panel was correctly seated before fitting the facia, which clipped in. I replaced the screws and reset the steering to my preferred driving position. Hope that helps.
Loz, August 2010