The light works but that's about it. The fan has stopped and there is no power light. Is this likely to be the switch or the fan? I don't want to buy one of them,only to find out it's the other. Is there a way I can find out first?

Many thanks

Mokes, October 2009

Hi, Had a similar problem, just wanted to say thanks to the previous poster for a really clear answer -- and it worked! Only tricky bit, once the soldering was done, was replacing the final two small screws that hold the PCB box. My tip: push and lift the box by the buttons, working from the front, while holding the first small screw in place at the back, then finger-tighten both screws once they're located, before securing them tightly. Fiddly, but doable. Thanks again to all posters.

Steve S, December 2018

I have a Hygena Extractor Fan Model APP2440 which is old. It just stopped working when in use so the extractors fan are no longer rotating & the light does not work either. Tried placing a new light bulb into the unit which is also not alighting. Does anyone know what is wrong with this unit, how to repair and if a repair is required how much would it be including VAT. Maybe the fuse has blown - where to locate this. The appliance won't turn on anymore. thanks

luca, October 2018

Just to say, with the Hygena APP2440 cooker hood - which was paired with my diplomat cooker (this can be seen if you removed the grease filters in the hood and look around a bit at the stickers on the inside) - the pcb can easily be removed without taking the whole thing down. There are only two screws holing it in place - as you look at the buttons, they'll be on the opposite side facing away from you. I suggest putting a board over the hob and sitting on it as its a pain to get back in place. You can also put something like a stool on there and work on the PCB in situ - fiddly, but maybe better than pulling the whole thing down.

Some Guy, December 2016

I had a similar problem but with the cooker hood light. 3 tracks on the PCB were burnt out (L into switch, L out of switch, N).

The tracks had no copper whatsoever remaining, so I couldn't just use solder on them. However I had some appropriately rated mains flex around so I just used short pieces of this following the lines of the tracks and soldered on to the solder joints. Problem solved!

Thanks for the info on how to remove the switches!

Barry, July 2016

as the previous chap said took the switch apart and found slight burn on circuit, solder job now working fine

stewart g, July 2010

Hi
I had a same problem. I took out the box containing switches from the hood by removing two small screws holding the metal frame+box. Then unscrew the metal frame from the box. You'll find 4 four further screws to open up the box. Once inside the box you'll find a simple circuit board containing 4 four switches. In mine, I found a burnt track which I was able to fix easily with a soldering iron. Look for something similar or a faulty switch. Good luck!

..., March 2010