Hello. I have just bought a 93 GPZ 500 with 12k on the clock and I was wondering if there was any known faults with this bike? I know that the exhaust downpipes will rust through but I was told that it will happen after about 40k. I have also been told that the front break (single disk) is ok for 0 - 40mph but anything after that and they need a real firm squeeze to get any real stoppage from it. Do you have any recommendations for that?

Basically I am just looking for any tips to help keep my old but new bike (being my first big bike) from breaking down like my '08 Sukida 125 did all the time.

Many thanks,

Scott.

Scott, January 2010

hi scott the common faults i have had with my (94) gpz is front calliber siezing up/stiff. failure to start due to wireing harness connector blocks corroeding under the petrol tank and seat. cut the blocks out and connect wire to wire ok eversince. i buy most of any parts need from ebay hope to be any help

nick s, January 2011

excellent choice of bike, i have a 2001 gpz500s and have just done a full rebuild. firstly the single brake is a bigger unit than the twin units fitted to other variants, it is fine i can do 0/100mph and stop in 800 meters with the front tyre squealing in protest. And since i have modded the air box and cans. i get another 10mph in the same distance. see youtube "gpz500s modified exhaust" i have since removed the central tube for a deeper sound, new video to follow. de restricted and with the airbox mod there is more than enough power. also if you do regular oil changes, using a good oil 20/40 not synthetic crap, you will have an engine like mine after 24000miles never opened and no rattles or clatter from the engine, and never had to redo the valve clearances. (only over revved engines wear out)using the mid range power 4 to 8000rpm and not making it howl at 11000 every day will prolong the engine life no end. i do give mine a blast now and then and rev to 10500 but only for very hard accelleration. crusing at 85mph with the throttle just cracked open the engine is turning at 7000rpm with me sitting bolt upright. and 120mph+ on tap if required with all 60++ horses doing their job. Oh and fit or make a chain oiler, use 20/40 oil and o ring chains, spray on grease will collect dust and grit and wear out the chain faster than the rear tyre, which will need to be replaced every 7000miles if you ride as hard as i do. bt45 is a goody but does go square near the end despite the dual compound, very forgiving tyre too. i once had had a gentle tail slide at 80 cranked hard over in the wet and just closed off the gas and she straightened up perfectly, ( i brake before bends and drive through under power, so if it starts to slide it's easy to catch just with the throttle). tip of the day...anyway be safe, be aware, and lucky.. colin

colin martin, April 2010

Have a look here to find out everything you need to know about this bike
www.ex500.com

Martin, March 2010

They are good machine the make alot of bhp for the engine size but they do rattle a bit but its normal for them as they use a hi-vo chain to drive the clutch from the crankshaft and there is no tensioner for it ,if you get the crabs balanced they will sound better as just a slight bit out of balance and they rattle like hell.apart from that the usual problems of fork seals leaking binding brakes /drums warping on rear drum models and the valve clearances tightening up and the two waterpipes that bolt onto the rocker cover and go into the head stick in place, they are on two orings and get rusted into position and need warming and leverage to get out.unfortunately these pipes do need to come off to get the rocker cover off to do the valve clearances.good clutchs /good gearboxs and a strong frame maker it a good bike check the rear shock for rebound damping as they do suffer from that too.

adam bike doctor, January 2010

I would keep as original as possible. unless your really worried then the the new hoses will sort your brakes out. twin discs could be expensive. Save your money for a bigger bike in a year or so. Keep it for a year and practice on it. If you look after it then sell it for what you paid for it.
Manual will tell you what oil to use

bb, January 2010

nice reliable bike. regular maintenace is important,oil change,adjustments,chain tension etc.buy yourself a manual,haynes are good. you can upgrade your brake hoses to improve thier performance or even look at fitting twin discs. enjoy

xs1100, January 2010

Thanks for the prompt response. The bike already comes with a Haynes manual and I will read it until I know it word by word. What type/thickness oil would you recommend? I wasn't planning on using that nasty tesco oil I have laying around. I will look around for them goodridge hoses and get about to fitting them asap. I have already vowed not to make the same mistake twice. I only bought this one because it was £440 brand new in a crate and I needed to commute to work 40miles round trip. Is there anything else you would recommend me doing? Someone else suggested that I buy a double disk conversion kit as the newer model came with 2 disks. Would this be something you'd recommend?

Many Thanks,

Scott.

Scott, January 2010

scott,
the gpz 500s were cracking little bikes, look after it and it will look after you.
I would buy a Haynes manual and look a what regularly needs servicing and do it yourself. most of it straight forward
Oil and filter every 4000 miles, you do this the engine will last. and dont be tempted by cheap car oil from Asda spend a bit on decent oil.
As for the brakes you could change the hoses. Goodridge do good ones. They stop them expanding when you brake, which is generally the problem with original hoses.
you wont have problems as you did with your sukidia thing. They are rubbish and alsways break down, no matter how new they are. Make a vow now, you will never buy chinese again.. no matter how cheap.

bb, January 2010