Having just had my dishdrawer serviced ($297 bill) after a F1 fault I went to use the non faulty drawer for the first time and it would go for about a minute then come up with a F2 fault. I've followed some suggestions from this site and it now runs through the whole cycle (although it seems to stay longer than it should at some points), however, it won't drain. When it's got water in it after the cycle has finished and you re-close the drawer as if to start a new cycle you can hear it trying to drain itself, but nothing happens.
I"ve left ammonia in the drain area over night and also tried baking soda and vinegar. However, I'm, wondering if it might be an electronics problem, any ideas?

cazza, March 2010

I'm having the same problem with no water draining out, but I have not had any error messages come up on mine - it simply won't drain out. I've taken out and cleaned and checked EVERYTHING - rotor, drain plate , etc., as well as checking all of the hoses for blockages or kinks in the lines...
Any suggestions?

Nancy, October 2015

Hi all i hve found that the rotor seizes on the shaft (graphite bearing) which then stops it rotating and causes F1 and F2 alarm i have replaced bearing with a brass one (i am lucky to have acces to a machine shop) it still seizes after a time but can be freed without breaking the bearing hope this helps someone cheers billo

billo, July 2010

Depends what model you have. Read the model number on the label just below the top drawer on left hand side. Top & bottom tub is the same on each model but not changeable between different models. Seems unbelievable that so many things could be wrong on one tub all at once. If I were you I would get a second opinion before buying a whole second hand tub. It would be quite expensive & you would then have to get someone in to remove the old tub & wiring & rewire the new tub etc. Where are you located?

Lincoln Appliance NZ, March 2010

thanks for that, I had looked at the rotor and even swapped between drawers, got it going but it came up with an F1 fault, I cleaned the water all up, got rid of the fault, tried again and this time got an f3 fault. At that point a technician came round and disconnected the power from the top drawer as he thought it was too dodgy too repair, he thought it needed a new control board, new actuators, a new heating module etc, etc... The whole thing seemed a bit odd to me and I wondered if there was one source of all that going wrong at one time. I'm also wondering about getting a whole secondhand drawer to replace it, then just getting new actuators. Does anyone know if the top and bottom drawers (minus faceplates) are interchangable or are they different?

Cazza, March 2010

F2 means the wash motor was not turning probably due to some dirt or food particle. Did you at any stage remove the rotor? That is the small motor with a blue impellor on top just under the sray arm. Remove spray arm & filter plate. Turn locking ring on rotor & remove rotor. Check inside opening of tub and clean it out. Check small impellor on bottom of rotor for any damaged fins. This impellor is the drain one. The large one on top is the wash one. Put it back & make sure it is seated & locked in properly. If still not draining then you will need someone to come & remove drain hose etc to check for blockages.

Lincoln Appliance NZ, March 2010