I was told that before to clean the pre-filter (glass bowl) of the fuel line I should run the engine for about 10 minutes and then undo the pre-filter. Not tried so far and before I start to undo things wanted to ask:

Q1. Can I clean/undo the pre-filter without pre-run the engine?
Q2. If I should run the engine, why?

Salvo Sammatrice, March 2010

my new glass bowl won't completely fill with fuel when priming is this normal please?

baza, May 2014

Glad to be of assistance Salvo. Saw your photos.
Amazing how dirty and clogged up it can get eh?
Another tip for you:
I keep a spare glass bowl and pre-filter element. When this problem happens (which can be with alarming frequency as the vehicle ages), I just put in the spare clean one straightaway and then clean the other one later.
JD

JD, March 2010

Managed to undo the pre-filter accessing from the wheel-arch and this is what I found (copy and paste for image):

http://i44.tinypic.com/14miw0.jpg

Cleaned it up with petrol and toothbrush:

http://i41.tinypic.com/w2f89l.jpg

Refited and tightened thumbscrew by hand , pumped the diesel in the bowl/lines... and the truck runs fine!

Thanks JD!
just thought to let you know what I found.

Salvo, March 2010

Hi JD,
you have been very clear!
I was shown how to get to the pre-filter from the weel-arch (not easy but doable) and will take some petrol (and toothbrush) with me to wash the plastic element. I have ordered the fuel filters and will follow your advise to change also the air-filters.

Thanks a million!
Much appreciate your help.

Salvo, March 2010

SS:
Re this and other question.
Running the engine is irrelevant. If you don't clean the pre-filter - aka - the water separator (does both) - the engine isn't going to run anyway!
There is a big knurled thumbscrew which holds the glass bowl into a stirrup. Unscrew that and carefully remove the bowl with plastic element and spring. Also be careful not to lose the rubber sealing washer which fits between the top rim of the glass bowl and the metal housing. This washer/seal is important - if it is missing, air will get into the fuel system and bleeding will not eliminate it. (And engine probably won't start). You can wash out the plastic element with diesel or petrol or some other solvent. The end cap on the element can be prised off to allow access to the inside. A old toothbrush is handy for cleaning this element. Make sure the plastic element is put back with the hole facing upwards! Refit and tighten thumbscrew by hand - do not use any kind of wrench! You now need to operate the lift pump (with your thumb) to fill the bowl etc and fill the fuel lines as some diesel will have leaked out.
It may be possible to do this from underneath if you have a garage pit.
As for the main fuel filters you won't be able to get at those from underneath unless you are a contortionist. I would usually disconnect the fuel lines to the filter housing and unbolt it from the engine and then change the filter elements at ease on the bench (very fiddly to fit O-rings etc otherwise) - especially if you can't tilt the cab. The filters themselves are Crosland 522 or Knecht KX23 - for the Ford 110 hp engine. There are numerous other manufacturers who make equivalent filters. They cost about £4 or £5 stg in motor factors I would guess but you can get them for less on ebay.co.uk. - plenty of suppliers who will take credit cards, paypal etc and post them out to you - no hassle at all! Note that you need 2 of them. They come with O-rings as part of the kit. Replace all of the existing O-rings - even if they look OK.
Suggest you look at www.FordCargo.org - some photos of that pre-filter and cross-references for filters and also sources of parts which may be helpful.
Finally don't forget the air filter while you are at it. A new set of fuel and air filters is always a good idea if you have to go for an MOT - the air filter in particular is important for passing the smoke test! (plus a small amount of petrol in the diesel tank!!).
Keep On Trucking!

JD, March 2010