its a pain, remove the stereo first, then you can just get your hand on the back of the clock and you should just be able to turn the bulb holder and get it out.
The bulb can be brought from any motor spares.
The problem comes trying to get it back in!!!
You may have to remove the console, unless you have very small hands. Its got 4 screws and two bolts just take your time and dont drop the screws behind the dash!!
Adrian, November 2010