My Dyson CR01 has an F11 fault - how do I fix it? can anyone help?

Jon, December 2004

Where is the triac. Can someone please help.?

Nicholas Croft, May 2020

Had the F11 and Fill fault, sure enough the PCB onoard fuse had blown 10amp, tested the bridge rectifier 10amp 800v which in previous posts is indicated as part of the repair and it had also blown. Changed out both and checked the comutators on each motor which appeared to be clean and free from carbon deposits. Put it all back together and success it is now working.

Only draw back was the cuts and bruises getting out and putting back the PCB board which was very difficult.

House Husband, May 2015

Having removed the Power PCB I now notice it is marked 'M1' and 'M2' that go to the motors.... can anyone tell me which of the motors is 'M1' the left or right hand one looking into the back of the machine. (DYSON would not or could not tell me) Thank you.

ALEXTILL, September 2013

Pete

When you say take the motors out do you mean disconnet the belt, and take the screws and elec connectors out or do you mean strip the unit as well?

tenny, February 2013

Just changed the bridge rectifier and got F11 again. Shame I didn't find this thread before I started! So, I'm going to try again after I follow Davebmw's advice.

But first can anyone tell me where the "triac BTB24 800V" is on the power board?

And what does it look like? I've found this at farnell's but I'm not confident it's the right one:

http://uk.farnell.com/stmicroelectronics/btb24-800brg/triac-800v-25a-to-220ab/dp/1533039

Also, in answer to Mike Harts quetions, you can buy the part cheaper elsewhere but link below is useful:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dyson-washing-machine-spare-part-cro1-fault-f11-new-/290841780461?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Washing_Machines_Dryers_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item43b78560ed

Cheaper rectifier, can anyone confirm below is correct please?

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1621699&CMP=e-2072-00001000&gross_price=true

Thanks

Neal, January 2013

how did you get the main pcb out of the machine
cheers mike

mike hart, December 2012

Hi all - Darren again with surprise surprise...... the F11 fault.

Finally did the 'mod' to the board and brought the 4 connections from the bridge rectifier to the back of the machine by soldering some heavy duty 4 core cable to the board. I have mounted the bridge rectifier to a piece of aluminium as a sink and decided to solder it rather than use connectors for a secure connection. The sink slotted nicely into a ridge on the side of the machine as if it were made for the job!!
I also brought the fuse to the rear and soldered that too.
Next time it goes then it's a simple solder job at the rear of the machine - no more impossible connectors, tight spaces and scratched arms. Got a big bag of rectifiers and fuses.

Darren, July 2012

Just relaced rectifier and fuse and machine now working again after displaying a F11 fault. It is a fiddly job but very do-able (No previous soldering experience). Be aware of prices being charged for rectifier. Quoted from £18 to £1! Eventually paid £1.58. Also had to fit the KBPC1010. Thanks for the advice on here.

pete, November 2011

The blown fuse on the control board is a result of the bridge rectifier going short circuit. This will usually reoccur if you fit the original 10amp bridge rectifier and dont clean the carbon out of the motor as the carbon dust shorts out sectors on the commutator and increases the load on the drive control board.
Remove the motors clean with soft paint brush and compressed air, replace bridge rectifier for 25A 1000V and triac for BTB24 800V instead of 600V, hey presto it's fixed and next time the motors clog up it'll only blow the fuse.

Davebmw, October 2011

Darren how did you remove the drive wheel, my one won't come off?

Mo, September 2011

Got home and it wasn't the usual F11 fault - this time an F15 - servo motor for the contra rotator fault.
I think the fault is reported if the servo motor doesn't activate one of the two travel monitoring switches at each end of the gear mechanism in time.
When I looked the right switch was almost activated but not quite.
Easy ish fix.

Remove back.
Remove the screw (T40 I think) in the middle of the drive wheel for the drum.
Pull off the drive wheel (watch for the washer in the middle).
Lubricate the 'S wave' mechanism with spray grease and test movement by pushing on the cog gear.
Reassemble by puting on the drive wheel - watch out for a free floating ring bearing inside the hole - use your finger to hold it centred while you put the wheel back on.
Re attatch with the torx screw.
Now the difficult bit - the belt is very tight. Not sure if there is a correct way of doing this but I put the belt over the motors and rotated the drive wheel while hooking the belt over the edge - a bit like putting on a bike chain. Watch out for the edge of the drive wheel as it is sharp (cut my finger).
Anyway - test up - should be working now.

Darren, August 2011

Back again for my annual post - blown yet again - I wonder if there is a more permanent fix for this problem.
Never got round to putting together an external board so I guess it's scraped arms again.

Good job I bought a bag of bridge rectifiers last time.

Darren, August 2011

got the bridge rectifier from farnells, CP1008, different manufacturer but same spec sheet and cheaper. Machines back up and running now, if you aren't confident with soldering post me your power board I'll replace it for a small fee lol :-)

Wacky, May 2011

f11 fault how di i fix it

zzzz, January 2011

Hi there Darren again

Fuse and bridge rectifier blown yet again - lasted just over a year. See July 2009 below.

My plan is to build a pair of custom circuit boards holding the fuse the bridge rectifier, that I can extend and mount to the back of the machine where the access is easier. Then next time it happens I'll hard wire a connector to the Diedson board which can plug into the custom board. Next time it blows it's a simple swap out job.

This problem might be caused by the drum. I have seen in other forums about tight drum syndrome which is caused by gunge build up on the spider gears. Wondering if it's worth trying to strip down the drum to clear this. Anybody had experience?

Darren, September 2010

in reply to Shid yes i do have bridge rectifiers in stock
you can phone me on mobile 07766414823

chris, August 2010

F11 is drum /motor fault and can occur if either the drum is mechanically jammed or as on mine both motors had seized up ... i've found that the tight drum syndrome seems to be caused by a build up of debris,sludge and corrosion around the spiders (back of drum) mine was so bad it had moved the inner rear drum forward .. . stripped the whole drum assembly down .. scraped and cleaned the whole thing .. repacked the inner and outer bearings with grease and... hey presto it works perfectly.. this only works if you clean it out before the bearing seals fail as once that happens new bearings are hard to get and hard to fit :)..

Archie, July 2010

Just had the Dyson service engineer out to replace the PCB after F11 fault... while he was here he updated the software to no longer contra-rotate "in order to extend the life of the drum". How nice that after only a few years of service Dyson recognise the flawed design that was the selling point of their washers and are reprogramming them to become normal machines. Bravo!

Never buy another Dyson product, June 2010

ho do you get and inut the reset code, thanks

bob, March 2010

Has anyone got any bridge rectifiers for sale? replaced my fuse and found upon testing that the rectifier is short circuit.. Chris from earlier messages, have you still got any left?

shid, January 2010

ihave tried holding down temp and then soil button etc: will go on so far but then back to fault f11 call really stuck can any body help please five people in house, nightmare.........

michelle, January 2010

if anyone wants a new bridge rectifier i have a small quantity for sale

chris, December 2009

how do you clear the fault ?

darren russell, December 2009

hi my dyson cr01 has f11 showing how do i reset it please help????

darren, November 2009

hi mi washing machine is not working is a f11 fault how can i fix

helena, July 2009

Many thanks to Rod. I've just fixed my Dyson - saved me a lot of time as the first component I checked was the bridge rectifier. Shorted across the AC - not good for the fuse!

Took me a while to find a replacement though. The BR108 was a bit elusive. Found an equivalent in the KBPC1008 - Spec sheets are identical. Ended up having to fit the 1000V version of the device (KBPC1010) as it was the only one I could find.

Got it from Cricklewood Electronics

http://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/Cricklewood/product.php?productid=8970&cat=212&page=1

Cheers

Darren

Darren, July 2009

IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT & COMPETENT THEN LEAVE IT TO SOMEONE WHO IS! Empty the machine first then try resetting the fault. I have a CR02, it uses the same power PCB in the base of the machine as the CR01 (or so the silk screen suggests). It was on the final rinse when the 32A circuit breaker opened and the power went off! When the power came back on I had F11 so I replaced the 10A 250V quickblow fuse (NOT available from Maplin that is a low voltage fuse) and the machine made a nasty noise as it stepped up the power to try and spin the drum! So I removed the PCB from the rear by disconnecting the leads and unclipping the 3 standoffs. I found one of the relays (K3) had burnt contacts and the bridge rectifier (D8) was short circuit so I replaced them (with the correct parts) and checked the rest of the board as best as I could without schematics. I noticed the drum was hard to move so I emptied it as it looked overloaded (any ideas what 7kg of washing looks like?) then gave the machine a test run and now it is working fine! I certainly do not recommend doing this! The possibility of serious injury from not knowing what is going on is not worth the £92 Dyson call out. ALWAYS remove the plug from the socket and use a good meter to check for stored voltages before touching anything.

Rod, December 2008

I have heard that the Fault F11 on the dyson washing machine is a blown fuse. Where is the fuse located and what type of fuse do I need.

Andrew, January 2008

how do u reset the machine after fixing f11 please ...

sophia, July 2007

i have the code f11 on my machine....so if i change the fuse where do i get the code to reset machine?

tracy milner, July 2006

so you changed the fuse yourself and reset the machine and it was ok - no need to call out Dyson?
Sorry I am a female desperate to get on with her laundry!

Danielle, September 2005

just had f11 come up after somebody hit the main power cable for the estate when we got reconnected we had f11 read about the fuse on the board it was a pig to get out found fuse ok so I tried to clear the fault code which I should have done first and it cleared all ok
ps very good site

john, August 2005

I had to call the engineer in. The F11 fault is a fuse blown on the circuit board. Apparently this fuse failing can blow the board so Dyson change the board. The board is located at the back of the machine so you need to take the back off, unplug the board, change the fuse which you can buy at Maplins and put the board back. Then use the code found elsewhere to clear the fault. If it works fine, if not then you need a new board. Hope this helps everyone.

Jon, January 2005

TO ADD TO MY QUESTION - I have used the tip to clear the fault shown on the other Dyson questions. But when I run the machine again the fault comes back within the first minute.

Jon, December 2004