I recently had a water leak in my house, so i had to turn off the mains and drain the system. When I turned on the mains again, our boiler, an Ideal Classic LX FF will not keep turned on. It stays alight for about 2-3 mins and then turns off. I notice that the oustide of the boiler gets quite hot as well. Is this a pump problem or a temperature sensor issue or someting else.

No water actually leaked near the boiler so Im wondering if someting has failed when we re-filled the system. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Paul Robbins, July 2006

It is illegal to work on a gas boiler if you are not a Gas Safe registered installer and competent to do so. You risk your life and the lives of others if you don't know what you are doing. Always seek the help of a professional Gas Safe registered engineer.

Tim, May 2015

I have got Ideal Classic LXFF & FF fanned Flue Gas Boiler purchased in 2004. It has been working very well. But lately when you turn it on the boiler did not ignite hence no hot water and heating. What do I do? please help.

Smart, May 2012

Yes oil the spindle. It worked for me.

Zico, December 2011

hi ideal classic working fine but in morning when it should come on with time clock
it doesnt have to keep pressin reset button think it s pressure swich any ideas

darren, December 2011

pump runs on after boiler shuts down

nigel, November 2011

Hi There, My Ideal RS350 was cutting out and over heating after a few mins, I found after checking lots of things it was a laxy pump, which didn't alter on any of the 3 settings. I hope this helps you out. As it done my head in. Vic

Vic, February 2011

I have got the same problem, its doing my head in. HELP

Vic, February 2011

I recently had the same problem with a Baxi back boiler and after much research found that as my system was of the old gravity/pumped system it had a Dumball valve in the flow as it exited the boiler to stop gravity circulation to the upper floor.

I took it out and found to my surprise that the valve was completely blocked with black muck, stripped it down and cleaned it, and now I have 100% perfect system

Dave Webb Bexley Kent, January 2011

I have had the same problem and i think I have the answer. .My service engineer( who is a pretty decent guy) tells me that there is a fault with the fan. So to fix it , with the power OFF!!!! you take offf the faring , you will see the fan on top left.. In the centre of the fan here is a siindle and it becomes dried out. Spray WD 40 oil ( make sure you suse the straw that comes with the oil) into the little well around the spindle and in the gaps where the spindle is visable beneath it. Leave time for the oil to sep down and repoeat a couple of times. make sure to wipe all excess oil and then restart the boiler, it should work. Note, it takes a surprising amount of oil to get this right

Mike Mac C, December 2010

ring a plumber we are all out of work and our families are starving

starvinmarv, September 2010

Sorry to Hi-Jack the thread.

I have a Ideal Classic RS40 Boiler and the outer casing seems to get very hot.

It seems to be working fine so I am sure this is normal but if anyone reading this has the same boiler I would appreciate their view.

Thanks in advance

Alan, August 2010

Hi I have exactly the same problem after I drained the system and replaced a radiator. The pump was off when the system was drained not the pilot light lights before almost instantly turning off. I think the pump is still working as its pumping cold water around the system. any ideas?

Rob Turpin, March 2010

Hi did u ever get yours sorted coz mine is doing the same . An engineer told me it was the pump so I changed it for a new one , this made no difference so a merchant said it would be the diverter valve so I changed that too. No joy either. So I looked for a blockage near the pump and diverter valve but there is no blockage there. Spent £150 so far and still no joy. Radiators have no air locks. Please advise if u can.

Les, February 2010

I am having THE EXACT problem. Did you ever sort this out? Was it the pump? Please let me know. There are so many cowboys out there telling me different things.
One said it's the valves, another said it's the pump. Who do I believe?

Nek, February 2010

its air locked..bleed the pump

ken, November 2009

That could be the pilot thermocouple on the gas control valve (if one is fitted).
If it is broken, or the connection to the valve is loose (quite common) after repairs, neither the pilot nor the main valve will remain open for long after ignition.
Screw it up (hand tight + 1/4 turn) - or replace if that doesn't work (~£5).

Zarrafak, April 2009

i have similar problem except all my rads are not heating up i have 10 rads but 2 are closed and still few rads downstairs are not heating up like the others any ideas

colm, January 2009

Guess what? I have the exact same problem. I'm going to try this pump theory.

Kevin Watt, July 2008

Did you get any joy with this?

I also have the same problem with the same boiler.

Didn't drain the system or anything though, just bled air from a couple of rads. Worked fine a few weeks ago, now cuts out after 2 mins.

thanks

John, October 2006

Ok, turn your system "on" so that the pump should be running...

As you have a centre screw in the pump; use a large flat-bladed screwdriver to remove this "cap" - DO NOT LOOSE IT!

Now take a smaller screwdriver and insert it slowly into the hole where the cap covered... Be careful because if the pump is running, the screwdriver blade will grab and get caught on the pump impellor - Be ready to withdraw the blade quickly...

As you insert the screwdriver, if the pump is not actually running, the screwdriver will bottom out without getting spun by the pump... Where it bottoms out is a slot, which you need to engage the screwdriver into and attempt to spin the impellor blade... This is like "jump-starting" the pump... You may feel the pump kick into life again and everything is fine, otherwise you might just feel the resistance of the pump motor "trying" to turn the impellor, but not quite managing it... If this is the case, new pump time I'm afraid.

Once happy, place the cap back in.


WARNING:
When you take this cap off, a small amount of water will escape from the pump constantly if the system is properly filled... Make sure you have a towel or "wet-sheet" handy.


Best of luck.

ccMods, July 2006

Hi Thanks for this. Im pretty sure i turned everything off beofre i drained the system. Can you give me a more detailed explaination of what I should be looking for on the pump as to where these bits are I need to check. There is a big screw in the middle of the pumo, is this what I need ?

Thanks

paul robbins, July 2006

Check for air in the system and ensure your pump is fully vented... Sounds to me as though the pump is not getting rid of heat from the appliance and as such, tripping out on the boiler's thermostat. If the system was drained with the pump still "on", you could have fried it and it will probably need to be replaced... If everything was off when it was drained, then I would put my money on the fact that the system probably just has an air lock in it somewhere.

To check the pump: Undo the nut in the center (Circulating Pumps Ltd, Myson Pumps, etc) or the screw (Grunfos pumps) and spin the centre shaft in the pump, push the shaft in with either the spindle or a small screwdriver and ensure water comes out and that you can feel the impellor of the pump turning... Don't worry... It is a very small amount of water ;)


ccMods

ccMods, July 2006