I have just completed this task on a 75E15 that had a rotten hydraulic pipe on the cab tilt system.
As said earlier , err on the side of caution when tilting the cab, as long as you use common sense it is possible and no need to pay anyone fortunes to do it for you.
The pipe that was burst on my Iveco was the one that runs from just inside the passenger side grill area, impossible to gain access to with the cab down.
My other problem was that this cab had not been lifted in years and the drive belts for the brake pressure were slipping like mad.
So !!!
Remove everything from the inside of the cab which may fall forward during tilt and destroy your windscreen. Open the bonnet wide and remove the front towing pin.
When your pump is working, it's first job is to release the safety catch on the cab, unfortunately, with a broken pump system that is not possible.
Reach between the cab and the body with a mirror (if needed). You should see what look like a steel "Football Goal Post" structure which sits atop the chassis (usually painted red but not always). It is that steel structure which holds the Pin that the Hydraulic catch latches onto.
At either end of that goal post structure (where the crossbar meets the posts) you will see two bolts, it is these bolts you have to remove to disconnect the cab lock and crossbar, from the goal posts and chassis.
It is a fiddly job but is do- able with patience.
That is the worst part over, as long as you have set the gearstick to the required lifting position, you are ready to start lifting.
You are going to need a selection of pieces of wood, a selection of jacks (Hydraulic and scissor).
Jacking, as often as possible using the chassis rails as the base, you will be able to keep tilting the cab. Keep packing it up with heavy timbers for safety as you go.
Here's a warning - depending on which pipe has split on the cab tilt system, it may be that when you have tilted the cab to it's highest, the weight of the cab could swing the cab forward and tear the cab from it's hinges and end up on the rod in front of you. !!!!! Usually the hydraulics act as a damper and stop the cab falling forward.
I borrowed a chain block which I fastened to the cab and the other end to the chassis. As I jacked the cab up, I released the tension on the chain block, just a precaution, but it may save you a headache.
Eventually you will reach the balance point where the weight of the cab is now pulling the cab forward and it is far safer to now get between the cab and the body and look to see which pipe is rotted.
I replaced mine with rubber hydraulic pipes which work far better than the steel ones and will never split again.
Replace the broken and rotted pipes, recharge the system with hydraulic oil, remove all of =your blocks of wood, ropes and chain blocks etc, your cab should now pump up and down as designed.
Just remember to think safety folks, you can do this, no need to pay fortunes to some garage when anyone with common sense can sort it themselves.
Stephen H, June 2021
