Hi When changing the main oven bulbs I managed to somehow create a short which resulted in a bang/pop when turning the power back on (stupidly I had not bothered to isolate power at main switch although oven itself was off). The new bulb (left hand side) blew & it tripped our RCD. When reinstating electric I had lost all power to main oven control unit + timer + main oven. After following advice on this site I managed to confirm timer was OK by trying it in top oven controller. I then managed to extract the PCB from main oven controller & could see that the bang/pop had blackened & melted away 3 of the traces on the PCB. there was no visible damage to any of the PCB components themselves. After finding the price for new controller at £195(!!!!) I used some fuse wire & solder to reconstruct the traces & re-fitted the PCB & contoller assembly. Condition now as follows: Top oven still fully functional Timer now fully functional from normal main oven controller connection. Main oven controller shows " E r r " & main oven cooling fan runs continuously despite no heat. I can select most of the cooking options by turning the switch although the Hydroclean (water droplet shape) & Dough Proving (loaf tin shape) do not light up. If I select any working function then the oven light comes on. If I select Fan oven or Circotherm then the main oven fan runs correctly. However, regardless of which oven or grill option I choose the display continues to show " E r r " & I don't get any heat. As the cooling fan is running I'm wondering if there is a fault with temp. sensor or thermostat. I traced two red wires from snap connector on PCB back to sensor but no obvious fault. I also tried disconnecting the two red wires but with no change in function / problem. I made some detailed drawings & took pictures of the wire locations before dismantling so I think they're ok. I'm now not sure whether to bite the bullet for new controller (any advice on low cost source?) or if this is not the actual problem. 'Phoned Neff who won't give any technical advice & confirmed that if I have an engineer out then they will simply change components - all of which seems to defeat the object. Any help or guidance much appreciated. Perhaps also suggestion of independant electrician in UK Midlands ares (LE12). Thanks in advance.

Newt, March 2012

Hi When changing the main oven bulbs I managed to somehow create a short which resulted in a bang/pop when turning the power back on (stupidly I had not bothered to isolate power at main switch although oven itself was off). The new bulb (left hand side) blew & it tripped our RCD. When reinstating electric I had lost all power to main oven control unit + timer + main oven. After following advice on this site I managed to confirm timer was OK by trying it in top oven controller. I then managed to extract the PCB from main oven controller & could see that the bang/pop had blackened & melted away 3 of the traces on the PCB. there was no visible damage to any of the PCB components themselves. After finding the price for new controller at £195(!!!!) I used some fuse wire & solder to reconstruct the traces & re-fitted the PCB & contoller assembly. Condition now as follows: Top oven still fully functional Timer now fully functional from normal main oven controller connection. Main oven controller shows " E r r " & main oven cooling fan runs continuously despite no heat. I can select most of the cooking options by turning the switch although the Hydroclean (water droplet shape) & Dough Proving (loaf tin shape) do not light up. If I select any working function then the oven light comes on. If I select Fan oven or Circotherm then the main oven fan runs correctly. However, regardless of which oven or grill option I choose the display continues to show " E r r " & I don't get any heat. As the cooling fan is running I'm wondering if there is a fault with temp. sensor or thermostat. I traced two red wires from snap connector on PCB back to sensor but no obvious fault. I also tried disconnecting the two red wires but with no change in function / problem. I made some detailed drawings & took pictures of the wire locations before dismantling so I think they're ok. I'm now not sure whether to bite the bullet for new controller (any advice on low cost source?) or if this is not the actual problem. 'Phoned Neff who won't give any technical advice & confirmed that if I have an engineer out then they will simply change components - all of which seems to defeat the object. Any help or guidance much appreciated. Perhaps also suggestion of independant electrician in UK Midlands ares (LE12). Thanks in advance.

ΜΑΡΙΑ, October 2013