I have a 1700 W DZ5080 and this is how it came apart:
First make sure it is not plugged in.
Next remove the back plate, there is a single torx style screw. Once it is removed the rear plate will pop off if you pry gently on alternate sides.
Once the back is off you will see a black plug with two heavy grey wires (power wires) and a smaller red, black, and blue wire. The entire plug assembly will slide out to the rear with a little pulling. It exposes two leads from the base plate, freeing up the base plate for later removal.
There is a small white plug leading to two white wires at the top of the transparent box that holds the electronics. It also comes out to the rear with some gentle pulling. One this is released it will allow the base plate to be separated.
Now you can remove the base plate by removing the stainless cover at the front of the iron - it pops off. This exposes another torx screw. On my iron this screw was seized and I sheared off the head of the screw trying to remove it.
The other two screws that hold the bases plate are at the rear of the bottom of the iron. When they are removed the iron base plate will separate from the plastic body.
Finally, to remove the transparent electronics box you must first lift out the temperature control. It lifts our with gentle pressure, but when it comes out a small spring and indexing pointer can pop out of the plastic arm that remains below the dial. Do not lose this part.
Once the dial is removed the plastic box containing the electronics will slide out of the iron to the rear.
At this point I don't think the iron can be further dismantled without damaging it.
Mine is leaking from the seal (black sticky sealant) between the translucent tank and the opaque plastic body. I think mine is toast. Too bad, it was a very good iron but it only lasted about 100 uses.
Putting it back together assumes you have been careful and paid attention as it came apart - in other words you are on your own!
Paul, March 2011
