Will someone post a wiring layout here for a White Knight Sensordry please?

There is a great need by many people for the correct wiring layout to their tumble driers. Most as a result of removing the back and accidentally pulling them off!

If someone has a working drier will they please take the lid off and write down the wiring sequence on the terminal block and heating elements. It will solve a great many problems out here.

Thanks
Steve, December 2004


done
You are fan daby dosy - scottish for brilliant!!! Works on a cl447 too!!!!! Many, many thanks

Shona, August 2009
if you put your e-mail on i will send you the diagram

mick, March 2005
I also had a similar problem where I had not correctly noted the wiring sequence on my White Knight CL427 Dryer. I emailed the manufacturer and they kindly sent me a wiring diagram. However, I can’t stress enough that it’s probably best to get a qualified and approved engineer out to complete the job – if you’re unsure or not confident, it will no doubt work out cheaper in the long run to get a pro out now.

Also, I’m no electrician - I’ve worked this sequence out based on the manufacturer's wiring diagrams and it works for my machine – so I really can’t be held responsible for anyone blowing up their house or frying Aunty Mavis (or themselves for that matter). However, being a good Samaritan, I’ve simplified things:

The Terminal Block is made up of four boxes (feeds) with two connectors each = eight “pins”.

**DON’T FORGET TO CONNECT YOUR GREEN/YELLOW EARTH WIRES** (or it won’t just be the laundry that gets hot when you go to empty the machine!)

With the terminal block at the top of the rear panel., assume each box is numbered from “left”


BOX 1 (live feed –BROWN wire IN)
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Pin A - Connect Brown/White striped wire (this goes to door switch, loop to timer control and then the motor).

Pin B - Second connector is left empty


BOX 2 (neutral feed – BLUE wire IN)
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Pin A - Connect the (darker) Blue wire (from inside the machine – NOT the lighter blue pair of wires from the back panel’s reset switch – this goes to the timer control loop and then onto the motor)

Pin B - Connect (one of) the Light Blue wires (from the reset switch on the rear panel – there are two light blue cables from here so take either as it forms a loop)


BOX 3 (next to neutral feed)
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Pins A & B are NOT used


BOX 4 (farthest from the live feed)
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Pin A – Connect Black/White striped wire (loops to time control and down to Exhaust Thermostat)

Pin B – Connect Grey wire from the Inwards Thermostat inlet (on the back panel - again there are two greys from the in thermo, either will do (in a loop) but you will find that only one will reach!


HEATER ELEMENT
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It’s made up on two coils which terminate into six connectors but two are bridged thus making five available “pins”.

Start with the bridged pin – Connect the second Light Blue wire (from the reset switch on the rear panel – the first wire should already be connected to Box 2 Pin A)

The “middle” two pins should take the second Grey wire from the Inwards Thermostat inlet (the first wire being already connected to Box 4 Pin B) and also take the Black wire (from the temp control switches from within the machine casing).

The final two pins – one is left empty and the other takes the final(!!) red wire from the temp control switches from within the machine casing).

Otherwise, check out the manufacturer's website www.crosslee.co.uk for contact information - including a premium-rate technical help-line if you're really stuck.

Hope this helps everyone and good luck with the repairs!

Steve R, January 2005
link Click here to see other fixes for White Knight.