I have two independent Aqualisa A2 Quartz Showers in the house gravity fed to the pumps. One stopped working last week. i.e. press the on off button, nothing happens, no blue led light and no water. I believe I have isolated the fault to the controller located on the shower riser rail which has two semi circular blue LED buttons for on / off and increase shower power and the rotating thermostatic control. I have switched over the power / data cables between the pumps and both pumps work, therefore fault has to be either the data / power cable of the faulty shower or the controller / mixer, which I think is most likely. I would like to know if anybody has ever managed to disassemble the controller switch i.e. open it to allow an electrically minded engineering type to see if it can be fixed / repaired. I don't want to force anything and break it, if there is an obvious solution ? Any help / advice much appreciated. Aqualisa don't appear to give any secrets like this away.

John Heasman, November 2012

I have managed to fix the controller myself. Reason for shower failure was one of the two micro switches on the pcb board inside the controller had broken off the board through repeated use and needed resoldering back onto the board. It was the top on / off micro switch. Hey presto shower fixed for a little effort and no cost !!!

To remove the controller from the riser bar, there is a grub screw at the base of the controller. Unscrew this and slide the controller unit up to remove from the riser bar. Disconnect the data / 5v power cable from the back of the controller. To separate / open up the controller unit, there is a white plastic surround threaded sleeve / collar around the outside of the data / power cable on the back of the controller unit. Remove this using a small flat screw driver to push it around and unscrew. Having removed this you can separate the various parts of the controller unit, carefully watching where the positions of things are for reassembly !! The facia of the sealed button unit just flicks off with a screw driver. On the reverse of the button unit there are four tiny phillips screws, remove these and the unit again pulls into two parts revealing the back of the button unit and the pcb board where you can see the two little micro switches with yellow button tops which should be attached to the pcb board, but in my case the on / off one was not !! Resolder the legs back onto the pcb board. Then carefully reassemble the controller. Note on the back of the sealed unit there is a toothed wheel for the temperature control. Remove the cog which is located on a D spiggot by pulling it of the spindle. This allows you to relocate the pcb board correctly onto the 5 locating pins. 4 of which are on the back of the buttons. When reassembling the cog for temperature control, line up the two straight line marks one on the cog and the other on back body of the sealed unit. This position of the cog correlates to the maximum temp setting of the external temperature adjuster of the control unit. That's about it other than to say I cleaned the unit thoroughly and used silicone grease around the seals etc. Hope this helps and saves you all a fortune !

John Heasman, November 2012