the boiler is set to turn on via the timer which it normally does without any problems in the morning.during the course of the day it fires up and heats the water for the heating and taps without any problems.heres the problem:: sometimes it will go to fire up and the pump will be pumping and the extractor fan will be workin ok but the wush wont wush.
basicly the thing wont light.
it can stay like this for ages with the pump and the fan going hell for leather but she wont light.
turn it off using the switch on the front then turn it back on and away she goes no problem.
it can run for a day without any problems then the next day you've to turn it off and back on 4 sometimes 5 times.
please help me.
weve had someone out with call out charges for them to turn it off and on and claim its mended.
its not.
PLEASE HELP MEEEEEEEEEEE
thanks paul.
LEGS27@msn.com

PAUL, January 2007

I've read the messages and will have a look at the circuit board on my Friendly format 80E. Ignition was going off so I rotated the dial to ignite and heard a pop from within. The clock isn't ticking - there are no light on the display. Would it be a circuit board? thanks.

Sid, December 2014

Bobby rob - Any chance yopu could point me in the direction of a £75 (ish) pcb for the 80E? I/m being quoted more lke £150 (part only from suplliers, i'm fiting it) - and as everyone else has said, thank you so much for your very detailed, helpful answers. The soldered joints look fine, the problem is one of the circuits has completely melted!

Tony, February 2012

ive had same thing fixed gas valve but still doing it will let you know further as covered under gas breakdown.

linda, March 2007

Many thanks for sharing the info , 2 screws and the cover is off , 1 screw and the board is out , couple of blobs of solder-10 minutes tops.1 week later still working.

Craig, February 2007

Bobby Rob,you're a star!!

After months of similar problems to those Paul has been experiencing and a couple of expensive,wasted call-outs,I decided to search the net for suggestions before resorting to ringing another central heating company. I followed your advice,removed the PCB and re-soldered the most dodgy looking peaks and the boiler is as good as new! My wife thinks I'm a genius,the kids actually look proud of their old Dad and our house is lovely and warm again,plus we can even run the hot tap without knocking the heating off - what more could anyone ask for?

Many,many thanks for sharing your wisdom with us - it really is much appreciated!

All the best,

Gary.

Gary Hewitt, February 2007

BOBBY ROB IS MY HERO................
THANKS VERY MUCH MATE.
DID AS YOU SAID AND FOUND LOADS OF BROKES SOLDERS.
HAD THEM DONE AND NOW NO PROBLEMS AT ALL.
THANKS AGAIN.

PAUL, February 2007

Hi Paul, i've done as Bobby Rob has suggested for my PCB, found 3 duff soulders, they are now repaired, and the house has been as warm as toast since........thanks again Bobby Rob

john young, January 2007

SORRY IVE JUST RE-READ WHAT IVE WRITEN AND WHAT I MENT TO SAY WAS MY MATE THINKS THAT THE WIRE FROM THE MAIN PCB TO THE SWITCH SHOULD BE LIVE WHEN THE BOILER CALLS FOR HEAT.WHICH IN TURN SUPPLYS A LIVE THROUGH THE SWITCH TO THE GAS VALVE,ALLOWING THE BOILER TO FIRE.
WHEN THE BEAST FAULTS THERES NO LIVE FROM THE MAIN PCB TO THE SWITCH.THEREFORE NO LIVE SUPPLY TO THE GAS VALVE,WHICH WE THINK IS WHY IT WILL NOT FIRE UP.
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

PAUL, January 2007

nice one...........
update.
i abducted a friend of mine whos a dab hand with a soldering iron and one of them electrical screw drivers hes got one of them pocket belts to.anyway.
when he got here as luck had it the old faithfull was churning its guts out chucking one of its benders with the fan and pump going like i described before but no wush.
before we took the blue cover off the gas control board like bobby rob had said my mate came across this which he'd like to run past u first before we start.
.....................................................................................
theres a red wire (hmmmmm red must be important do not touch) that comes from the main driver pcb board at the bottom of the boiler,,,the one at the back of the knobs(these cost 105 plus vat).
this wire goes to a switch which is fixed to a pipe on the left hand side of the boiler then theres another red wire leading from the switch to the gas control board which is under the blue plastic cover we spoke of before.
while the pump and fan were on one and the flames hadnt lit BOTH sides of the switch were dead to power.
NOW.........................
my mate seems to think that the wire from the bottom pcb driver board (the one behind the knobs)to the switch should be perminantly live and then the switch on the pipe lets the power through to the gas control board behind the blue cover which in turn makes the wush ,wush and me happy..
ANYWAY SO.....
both sides of this switch were dead to power......... untill we turned the dreaded beast off and back on again then it sprung into action and both sides of the switch became live and the flames lit.
we desided i should see what you thought because if that switch does need a perminant live feed then the problem in pre the switch on the pipe and possibly the main pcb driver board located behind the knobs
what do u think please????????????????????????????
cheers for your time also.
paul.

PAUL, January 2007

Hello Paul, this is not an answer to your problem, but more of a reply. I have a 100E with exactly the same fault, we've had 3 plumbers look at it, and have been told it had various faults, from divertor valve, heat exchanger. even down to dust from the tumble dryer, this has cost so much in repairs, that i was tempted to install a new boiler. So it has been a great find reading this web site, to find someone who knows what they're doing. Many thanks to Bobby Rob.

John Y

John Young, January 2007

Paul, I repair boilers and have the same boiler as you, this is a common fault on this boiler but it would seem i am the only person that knows how to mend it [not just replace parts as others do] ie repair it.sime will tell you that you need to replace the gas control board [pcb] this will cure the fault but cost £75.00.to repair this board the vertical one onthe left side after removing the front panel.to do this the board has a blue plastic cover with a screw down a hole [switch off the power] and remove the cover you now can see the board the board then unplugs sideways to the left not out ward as you may think, what you are doing is unpluging the board from the gas valves.in other words remove this board unplug all the leads taking care not to do any damage [just take your time gently does it]now get a 10x mag eye glass after you have removed the second cover on the board and look very carefully at all the soldered peaks[joints] on this board the main ones being the ones on the large plug but you have to look very close to every peak and you will !!! see very small cracks around the solder peaks i found 15 on my board carefully resolder all the peak and re assemble this will cure the problem ,if you are not use to repairing pc boards get some one to help you a good electrician should sort it for you it is a bit trickyand you can soon mess up if you are not carefull.please let me know how you get on,if you can take it from me this is the problem.keep smiling bobby rob,ps DO NOT PLAY WITH THE GAS IN FACT YOU ARE BEST TURNING IT OF BEFORE STARTING THE JOB.

Bobby Rob, January 2007