Take out the five screws visible whilst sat in the driver's seat as mentioned but there is also another screw which I got to by prising out the right-hand air vent. Look in & up the right vent hole in the dash & you should be able to see a plastic cone on the underside of the dash facia, about 15cm in. Wiggle a driver bit (same as used on other 5 screws) up & into cone to undo the screw.
Once undone take out the dash facia to reveal the instrument cluster. Undo the 3 screws holding this in place (1 @ top & 2 @ bottom) then ease out the cluster to change any of the bulbs
Cheers...Steve, January 2009