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Zanussi TD520?

the drive belt has broken and requires replacement. How do i fit the new belt?
Mike, March 2007
Before I took it all apart, I tried to spin the drum manually - very stiff.
Once all apart, it span easily, as did the motor.

Reason for stiffness - 1-2mm ring of dust ontop of the circular fabric ring that the drum spins on.
(so increases the effective diameter, making it all very tight.

Thanks for the details guys !

Nick, April 2010
Nick, Replaced a belt on the TD 520 today following your instructions without incident.
Thanks

Rockford

Rockford, April 2009
you fit the belt like this .... take the top cover off then undo the screws at top side of dryer to split in half the drum will come away from front door anoth to slip drive belt down and around the drum,simple,the pully is self adjusting, just put one on good luck all;

james, April 2008
TD590 appears to come in 2 flavours – either with a tensioner (needing a longer belt 1884H5, this description) or no tensioning pulley -belt simply round the single motor drive spindle and drum (described above). The number appears to correspond to the belt length in millimetres.

This description covers 1884H5 (assumed) differences from 1830 description above.

Time taken - 60 minutes.
Difficulty – Easy for someone with reasonable DIY skills

Tools used:
7mm and 8mm sockets
Adjustable spanners,
Large flat head screwdriver
Needle nosed pliers
Bubble wrap for protection

Parts used
Replacement drive belt
Small cable tie

For belt replacement, I decided to go by what was last fitted, not by website/catalogue. Mine needed an 1884mm length, 5H, which is printed on the belt.
My machine had an 8mm screw and a 7mm screw (on each side) through the metal brackets at the top joining the front and rear halves of the case together.
Although the 1880 instructions above said they couldn't get the belt over the drive spindle I found that (in the 1884 model) all I had to do was lift up the big guide pulley against the force of the tensioning spring to put the drive belt in a big “S” over the drive spindle (small grooved) and around the tensioner pulley. I chose to put the “teethed” side of the drive belt against the drum.

Mark, November 2007
Mike a bit late for you but as this site has more questions than answers this may help others.Elsewhere someone says changing a belt is easy but doesn't say how! I thought as the drier is a simple design-no tensioning pulley-belt simply round the single motor drive spindle and drum-it might be possible to work it on from the door end but couldn't see how ( someone else will now probably explain how though this site says it is generally necessary to split the case halves) . So here's how I did it using just a 7 and 8 spanner, a large screwdriver and a hammer! Note I take no responsiblity in any way for anyone following what I did. It took an hour to do working it out myself.
Unplug drier.Remove top by undoing two rear self tapping screws and sliding lid back. Old belt may have dropped into bottom but find it now or later on before ordering a new one as this model seems to have been fitted with different belt lengths depending on the Part Number on the label inside the door. Even with the PN, some websites quoted the wrong length as suitable. Mine needed an 1830 mm length which is printed on the belt together with the fact that it was 8H -(8 humps?)-this may be a lesson generally on buying poly vee drier belts for other site users.
Cut the cable tie holding the cable up from brushing the top of the drum to allow room to move later-you'll need a replacement
Lay drier on its back on foam or similar to avoid damaging fan housing on back.
Remove screws holding on the bottom plate-mine had three.Now the hard bit -removing the four plastic feet-brute levering force with the screwdriver and try to remove with a screwing action.Remove bottom panel.
From the bottom look inside for a screw on each side panel a few inches in holding the two half panels together where they overlap-remove. Do the same with the two screws visible from the top in a similar place.
Now from the top remove three screws on one side and two on the other through the silver brackets joining the two halves of the case together. These fit through the top half of the case only. Note the position of the casing lugs relative to the brackets and that two of these screws are 8's not 7's like all the others.
You can now lift up the top half of the drier an inch or two and separate it from the bottom half allowing you to drop the new belt over the drum accessing from the bottom and maybe with your hand through the door-the three way air ducting simply pulls apart near the top as you do it.
Its probably easier with two people to lift it up square but despite my misgivings about damaging the dust seal round the drum front,I managed this on my own quite easily.I could have changed the seal at this point fairly easily too if I'd wanted Once the belt is on drop the top half back down into place and reverse all the above till you get to the lid fitting.
I couldn't get the belt over the drive spindle so removed just the two screws on the motor mount on the drive spindle side-eased this mount outwards in the direction of the spindle which pops out of three lugs in the top casing allowing the belt to be slipped on then reverse the procedure. Refit a cable tie and bang the lid on! If you are licensed to work on unguarded machinery you might want to check it spins over and the belt run centrally first!
I found it easier than adjusting the handlebars on my lads bike and wouldn't hesitate to tackle another-done for £13-30 Spares for Home delivered the belt the day following ordering Part number 10712 for mine but CHECK THE BELT LENGTH FIRST!
http://www.sparesforhome.co.uk/displayProduct.asp?id=10712

Nick Hale, September 2007
link Click here to see other fixes for Zanussi TD520.