Rangemaster 110 - the ovens would not light at the same time as the timer/clock breaking. The only way we could light it was to reset the timer and this would make the oven spark and light. Now nothing at all happens...... timer won't reset or create the spark and both ovens will not light at all. Hob, grill works fine. Should we get a gas fitter out?

Mrs E Lester, April 2007

Thanks to everyone who has posted on this thread. Same problem with faulty clock/timer preventing the main oven from working on our Rangemaster Professional+ 60 Ceramic cooker (PROP60ECSS). Pulled it away from wall. Removed two screws at the back that secure the ceramic hob. Couldn't see how to release the front of the hob, so partner lifted the hob from the back and held it up while I pulled the single blue wire out of the clock/timer unit and taped it up (the book that came with the oven has a wiring diagram, which showed the single blue wire). So now no clock/timer, which we never used anyway, and so far the main oven is working again fine.

Christopher Thornton, June 2022

I’ve only got one blue wire and pull it out it worked for w day and will not work now plz help lol

Pete, June 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4mYq17OCtQ

903 A DT, September 2018

Thank you guys. You've saved me spending out £1700 + on a new oven.

We had one blue wire. Un clipped it put some tape on it and hey presto its works.

Lisa Thornton, March 2017

My wife is so happy now that both ovens are working after following the tips on your forum. 5 screws out from under the front panel, removed all buttons and control knobs,wedged it open to access the 2 blue wires. Turned the kitchen sockets supply off, awkward to get at but pulled both blue cables off spade connectors, connected them together and put all back as before. The clock\timer is now disfunctional but the great news is everything else works as it should, we never used the timer so no loss there. All the very best! and thank you all for your input, well happy

Dan and very able assistant, my wife Rose, December 2016

Thank you Temi O worked a treat (blue wires)

Terry, April 2016

same problem with our Falcon Toledo.

Instructions worked fine

Only had one blue wire which I disconnected from the clock

This fixed the problem

Dave, January 2016

Been suffering with the same broken clock / ovens not working issue for the past few weeks and having read the tips below re: the 2 blue wires i thought I'd give it a go. I could only find 1 blue wire, however which I disconnected from the clock / timer unit and both ovens now work fine! Happy days!

Ian Rowland, December 2015

I only have one blue wire what should i do
Tina

Tina, December 2015

Had this problem was going to do the blue wires
but downloaded classic_110.pdf
removed timer buttons gave them a clean, reset timer as instructions.
Fantastic its working hope this has done the trick,
always got the blue wires to fall back on if any more problems.

Barbara, February 2015

A big 'Thank You' to you all guys for the information. My Rangemaster 100 has been misbehaving for 5 months now. The cooker hob are all working, grill working but the 2 ovens were not. I tried the method Mark P gave and I must admit that it took me only 10 minutes to sort it out. If you want the fastest means of making your oven work follow the method.
Method: Below the control panel, there are 5 screw, unscrew them and used a wooden roller or something hard or a little big to hold the opening so that you can see, assess the wire right behind the clock. There are 2 blue wire, remove them from the back of the clock and connect them together and that is all. Your Oven will surely work.
I hope I can help someone out there to sort out the oven issue. I wish you all success

Temi O, January 2015

the blue wire tip works perfectly but issue now seems to be that the ovens are either on full flame or not at all. any ideas?
:(

marek, August 2014

Works a treat. Followed Jon Tagg's advice on how to remove right griddle/warmer plate which slides out to the right. Then I was able to access the screws for the control panel which once removed allows you to remove the protective plate to get at the timer. In my case the two blue wires were already connected. In fact one wire was blue and the other was white with a blue band. Then I followed Graeme Johnston's advice and simply removed both blue wires from the terminal on the clock unit, left them connected to each other and taped then up. After putting everything back together I now have functioning ovens and it doesn't matter about the clock cos we never used it. Thanks All.

Paul W, July 2014

Thanks for tip re blue wires. i followed Jon Taggs advice and avoided all the hassle of moving and dismantling. I turned off mains electric then took out the 5 screws
under control panel along its length ,took off all the knobs and buttons then gently pulled it out and jammed a block of wood in the gap. accessed the blue wires
managed to snip these and used a connector. it was fiddlly like Jon said but it all went back together fine. took me about 30 minutes. great tips by all. thanks

Don Cochrane, May 2014

Thanks for tip re blue wires. i followed Jon Taggs advice and avoided all the hassle of moving and dismantling. I turned off mains electric then took out the 5 screws
under control panel along its length ,took off all the knobs and buttons then gently pulled it out and jammed a block of wood in the gap. accessed the blue wires
managed to snip these and used a connector. it was fiddlly like Jon said but it all went back together fine. took me about 30 minutes. great tips by all. thanks

Don Cochrane, May 2014

And another satisfied customer - joining the 2 blue wires worked a treat. Cheers!

Huw, February 2014

Wondered if anyone could help. Mine isn't the timer had that replaced at only 8 months old but now the oven has totally failed (in the middle of cooking a Sunday roast). I've checked all the main sources of electricity. There is no light on the clock is off and the ovens are off. Anyone have any ideas please???

Dee, January 2014

Well done mate i now have a fully working cooker again, my wife said she could kiss you, its people like you that makes us proud to be English, an not charge for the advice

Mr g, November 2013

Richard June 2013, I followed this advise and was sorted in about 30 mins. fully functional ovens minus the clock. Great stuff!

Mark Yorkshire, November 2013

on my rangemaster110 the left hand oven will not fire up. the piolet light lights up but that's it. The right hand works alright.

graham foster, November 2013

i have tried disconecting the clock altogther and still my fan oven wont work but the top oven does wat could it be

tony, October 2013

Great advice! Just had the same problem with my 110 only took me few minutes, pulled out the 2 blue cables, taped them together & now all working fine... :)

Robert Carman, September 2013

I had the same problem with my Rangemaster 110 electric, neither oven working and clock showing zeros and auto without flashing or buttons working.

Took a while to work out as I started by accessing from the front but could only get a slight opening and wanted to see in more detail and be able to re-connect wires if necessary. I re-attached the front and found a better way.

Removed 2 screws under the griddle plate and 3 screws on the griddle/warmer side of the rear vent (1 black on edge furthest from cooker, 2 silver on back of cooker). Griddle/warmer then slid out, I rotated this 45 degrees to get a good view inside and removed 2 silver screws holding a cover to the timer.

The timer itself had a brown wire and blue wire on the left (blue went to the conventional oven and daisy-chained to the fan oven and then to the grill), and more wires on the right. I disconnected the blue wire from the timer - ovens now work and timer/clock doesn't activate.

Richard, June 2013

mate, you are a genius!
the 8 steps worked perfectly! 20 minutes work.
the hardest parts are getting at the back of the stove(as its quite heavy) and also removing the 2 outer black screws securing the vent, as they're awkward to get at. I had to bend the vent slightly to gain access, and didn't bother fitting them on reassembly as the 2 centre screws are sufficient.
cheers,

fergal, May 2013

I had the same problem with a Stoves 900gtf. The timer was flashing all the time. After googling the fault I had a choice of replacing the timer at £76 or changing the electrolytic capacitor for 39Pence , available from Maplins. All changed and works fine. Good luck and hope this helps.

Vyv Goss, February 2013

My rangemaster 110 ovens will not work, the clock has gone off and won't come back on, help required please ???

Linda, December 2012

Just thought I'd add to this thread to explain how I fixed this with the aid of my Father-in-law (or should I say with his encouragement as I wouldn't have gone to the same lengths without him there). Before going any further I'll just say that all I was interested in was bypassing the timer and not fixing the timer -like others I was just interested in getting the oven to work.

I should also say that my cooker is actually a New world image 1000/1100 however having gone through this today I'd expect most oven timers would work on the same principles...

We pulled the oven right out in order to get at the main wiring loom and on the back-plate we found a wiring diagram. A couple of photos on the Father in-laws ipad later we could zoom and see a nice and clear diagram and it was relatively easy to work out how to bypass the timer. Bit of continuity testing and choc-blocks later we'd worked out which wires to joint out and the oven fired up without a hitch. The only thing we had to concede was that we had to lose the oven light function (or leave it permanently on...) so no great shakes.

Net result 2 ovens back in full working order just in time for cooking xmas dinner for 12...

Just to re-iterate the below is a timer unit on the above mentioned model.

If your timer is similar to mine then the following might help & as said worth looking for a wiring diagram on the back-plate if you feel comfortable enough in simply tracing out cables on that diagram.

Note that always be mindful of electricity and switch the cooker/ignition feed off unless you're testing with a multi meter to confirm which connection is the live feed (but always switch off again after you've proven that).

I would also add that you can probably do the repair below without removing the back plate on the oven, however it's something I did and you'll need to do if you want to do the continuity test to confirm which wire goes to the gas solenoid and which goes to the oven light.

1. Brown and blue wires connecting to the timer are the live and neutral in (you may have 2 browns on the spade connector but don't worry as that 2nd brown is likely to be looped straight into the ignition unit or the stat. Once you've tested with a meter & confirmed you have 240v AC between brown & blue then you should be OK to leave them wires where they are.
2. SWITCH OFF THE ELECTRIC TO THE OVEN AT THIS POINT.
3. The other wires I would expect you to see on the timer are a single red onto a connector and then 2 reds crimped together onto another single connector.
4. The single red wire should come from your oven temp. dial (the dial to set the gas mark with) and then into the timer.
5. As the timer engages (when it works) it then makes a connection from that single red to the connection with dual reds to form a cct connection.
6. The 2 reds leaving that timer are more than likely to go to 2 things, firstly one will go to the oven light (so that the light switches on only when the oven is in use) & the other red will go to the solenoid that opens the gas valve - add the ignition and hey presto the gas lights...
7. Cut the single red about 1/4 inch from the spade crimp (so you've enough cable to joint that spade crimp if you ever need to use it again) & connect into an electrical joint block or even better an insulated through crimp.
8. Cut one of the reds from the connector with 2 reds and strip back the insulation to make the connection into the other side of the block/crimp you've just prepared at point 7. If you're confident enough and understand a multi meter then prior to connecting to the single red wire it might be worth doing a continuity test between this cable you've just cut and the red connection in the oven light and also the red connection into the block leading to the gas solenoid. That continuity test will tell you which of those 2 things that wire belongs to.
9. Once you've determined which wire goes to the solenoid, this is the one that then needs connecting to the single red wire you prepared at point 7.
10. Making sure that joints are tight and you've insulated the blocks/crimps with electrical insulation tape you can then switch on the power and if you have connected the timer input to the gas solenoid you'll be sending out a little cheer when you then switch the oven on at the dial and it ignites and fires up...
11. If at the point you switch the power back and the oven light comes on then you've just connected to the wrong red (of the 2 reds that were originally crimped together). In which case (& taking care to switch off the power again) just connect the other red to the single red and the oven should ignite (& of course remember that the light will not work).
12. If you've not fallen asleep by this stage it might be obvious to some that you can do this without doing a continuity test and it's simply a 50/50 chance of connecting through to the light or the solenoid, however I find it sensible to do all you can to check and double check.

To re-iterate further this is NOT to fix the timer, this is simply to bypass the timer to get the oven to work and the only concession you're likely to make is that you lose use of your oven light (unless you feel the need to go a step further and fit a little switch for the light or indeed just connect the 2 red spade connectors together and have the light on for eternity (or until the pygmy lamp blows...).

When replacing the timer back in remember to take care and all the cables you've jointed & the single red that should be left hanging - make sure there is sufficient electrical insulation around these cables...

I should just say that if you're at all unsure (I'm an ex sparkie) then seek professional help but if you're a competent DIY'er and understand basic principles of how electrical connections are made through timers/switches etc. & you have the wiring diagram, then it's worth having a go yourself.

Best of luck & apologies for the long winded post, but hopefully it will save others a few bob in repair fees...

ChrisR, December 2012

the way i got round this is, i switched oven electrics of and waited 10 mins then switched it on i then let it flash. press the hand (forth button from the left) and it should stop flashing for 30 seconds in that time switch oven on it should ignite and stay on till you switch it off. it'll give you time to get it repaired, worked for me hope it does for you

paul spar, December 2012

Would just like to say a big thank you for blue wires tip - we have just done this and it works -was a little fiddly getting hob off but then the cooker is 15 years old. Great tip saved me £££ just before Christmas.

Sue W, December 2012

thanks for tip re blue wires.However I avoided all the hassle of moving and dismantling.I turned off mains electric then took out the 5 screws
under control panel along its length ,took off all the knobs and buttons then gently pulled it out and jammed a small block of wood in the gap.from there i could see blue wires
managed to snip these and used a connector.it was fiddlly but it all went back together fine

Jon Tagg, October 2012

thanx 4 the advice. just taped the 2 blue together and bingo!! :-)

matt, October 2012

Did this on our 110 ceramic electric model by just lifting top and disconnecting wires, job done, fantastic took 5 mins! thanks!

jhs, September 2012

brilliant.. Did the wire trick this morning and have saved who knows how much calling someone out.. Took about half an hour. Finding the screw behind the lid hinge was tricky, but the others are plain sailing..Thanks so much

dave, September 2012

Followed the instructions - a few things worth noting: 1) the top of the oven might be a bit stiff so when you take it off (vertically) you may need to use a bit of force but be careful not to lift it to far away from it's original position because of the wires attached to it. 2) the "blue" wires were white with a blue ring around them on my cooker. 3)My wires were already joined so I just detached them from the clock unit which means th clock timer no longer functions but we never used it anyway. So thanks all for the handy tips which probably saved me around £100!

Graeme Johnston, July 2012

I would like to say a big thank you to Mark P . Our Leisure Rangemaster 110 was having the same problem where the timer would start flashing and the ovens wouldn't light. After reading your quick fix solution I decided to have a go at fixing it myself. From start to finish it took me an hour (I had no instruction manual).
1. Lift lid.
2. Undo 6 screws that hold vent at rear and remove it. (4 black 2 silver)
3. lift out hot plate and undo 2 screws.
4. gently slide out hotplate/warmer to the right.
5. Lift hotplate/warmer carefully and prop up so as not to pull any wires from underside.
6. Undo 2 screws and remove cover that hide the rear of the clock.
7. Remove the 2 blue wires and join together.
8. Put everything back together and HEY PRESTO !!

Greg, July 2012

having the same sort of problem with my parkinson cowan 60tc i was very glad to find this web page, after pricing the part at the cost of £110 , i took the front off the cook to get to the timer........... disconected the brown and blue wire on the left of the timer and now the oven works great. took about 15 mins.

Alison, June 2012

Yes. Really does work! To remove my right hand hob, which has a griddle and electric warmer there were screws to remove on left hand of griddle, right hand side at edge of cooker and some incredibly hard to reach screws at the back - the hardest at right rear was easier to get to when glass lid was up. One blue wire had plastic connector and was easy to pull out, the other blue wire had a metal terminal and came out only after a lot more wiggling. Taped together and ovens will now ignite. Thanks everyone.

Chris Ryall, June 2012

Worked for me thanks a lot.

Scousedave, February 2012

By the way it does work if your blue wires are already connected as mine were. They just need to be taken of the connector to the failed logic in the timer which is holding the oven starter in auto mode, pre oven time start.

simon b, January 2012

Perfect instructions for a quick fix. Remove the right hand side of the hob (plate warmer side). Lift the hob, remove the timer cover, remove the two blue wires from the rear of the clock connect and seal with insulating tape. Test - no timer/clock, but ovens light! Re-assemble and reposition oven. The only challenging bit maybe getting the oven out and clear to remove the right hand hob. Thanks!

simon b, January 2012

Followed the instructions and wow! Problem solved. Thanks

Taybel, December 2011

Spot on. I just disconnected the two blue wires, joined them together, insulted them with tape and problem solved. Thanks all

Bill P. N Wales, July 2011

I followed Alan Parson's instructions and they were perfect!

I bought a new clock online from buyspares.co.uk for £39.80 inc VAT and postage, without checking serial numbers, and dismantled according to Alan's instructions.

However when I got the old clock out, the connectors were in a different place to the new one. I phoned buyspares who checked serial numbers and said that I needed a different one, at £110.

I called Rangemaster Technical support (buyspares gave me the number) and they were very helpful. They said they were interchangeable, and that the 2 cables going to the white box (you will know what this means when you have the clock in your hand) should be connected the same, and the cables going to the other 2, (marked L and N on the old clock) should be connected to the 2 large connectors at the bottom of the new clock. Surprisingly, it makes no difference which way round, even though they are live and neutral. (there are also 2 smaller terminals on the new clock which are not used on the Leisure 110)

Tech support told me that the buttons on the new one required slightly different operation to set the clock, but I was able to download a manual from http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/range-cooking/rangemaster-110.aspx

We now have a cooker in perfect working condition again, thanks Alan!

PS, my blue wires were already connected together on the same terminal, so that quick fix would not have worked for me.

All in I spent a little over 2 hours doing this, but Alan's estimate of an hour would have been fine if I hadn't had to spend so long on the phone and internet. I also took a fair amount of time cleaning, you will be surprised at what collects behind an oven over the years!

Geoff Nicholls, March 2011

The 2 blue wires connected worked for me too! Many thanks to everyone....

Paul M, January 2011

thanks for the advice gary the 2 blue wires connected works spot on

nate, January 2011

Big thanks for the posts on how to bypass the timer/clock, both ovens working fine now after Chrismas dinner near disaster.

Cassie J, January 2011

Is it absolutely necessary to move the oven from the wall? We had our cooker fitted. So, I'm not 100% confident about removing it.
If I do, how do I disconnect the electricity and gas from the cooker?
Is the only way to gain access to the clock unit via the back of the cooker?
There only appears to be two screws on the plate above, and four around the hob (left hand side). Just need some clarification before I attempt to fix it, please.
Thanks in advance :)

DM, January 2011

The above 'blue wire' solution worked perfectly for us - thanks for posting!
A couple of further points to note.
1 - To get at the clock it is necessary to move the oven away from the wall. It is very heavy! Two people should be involved in moving it out. Remove as much weight as you can to make it easier to move (hotplates etc). We also took off the lid but this wasn’t entirely necessary. If you do it is just two screws either side of the lid.
2 - The oven has three rear wheels that allow it to be moved. Open the grill door and right oven door and with two people gently lift the front of the oven and roll it away from the wall. Be careful not to stretch the flexible gas pipe (if fitted) or tangle the power lead.

Follow the instructions as above. We found that the two blue wires were already joined together in the same fitting. All we needed to do was pull them off the clock and tape them to electrically isolate them.

Tony P, October 2010

Cheers Alan your step by step guide was really useful and hey presto sorted!!

Dawn & Simon Waite, October 2010

I would like to say a big thank you to Mark P . Our Leisure Rangemaster 110 was having the same problem where the timer would start flashing and the ovens wouldn't light. After reading your quick fix solution I decided to have a go at fixing it myself. From start to finish it took me an hour (I had no instruction manual).
1. Lift lid.
2. Undo 6 screws that hold vent at rear and remove it. (4 black 2 silver)
3. lift out hot plate and undo 2 screws.
4. gently slide out hotplate/warmer to the right.
5. Lift hotplate/warmer carefully and prop up so as not to pull any wires from underside.
6. Undo 2 screws and remove cover that hide the rear of the clock.
7. Remove the 2 blue wires and join together.
8. Put everything back together and HEY PRESTO !!

Gary Milton - Portsmouth, September 2010

i tried to down load the mannual for the rangemaster 110 but just get a load of numbers can some one please help

victor brooks, September 2010

Connecting the 2 blue leads worked for me too. Thanks to everyone who posted especially Alan. To find a broken oven 2 days before Christmas with a Turkey to cook was not that nice. Within an hour it was fixed. Life savers!

Jeremy, December 2009

Answers - mend, repair, fix

Had the same problem on our gas 110 and fixed it for a short time but then the clock gave up completely and so no ovens. I purchased a new clock from espares for £64 including VAT and delivery. You can change the clock in about 1 hour from scratch or twenty minutes once you have done it the first time!. Disconnect from gas and electrics and get to back of cooker. Remove vent that goes along back, there are two screws that fix to the frame and four that fix to the hotplates, you will need to raise the glass to access these. Remove all the control knobs and burners/pan supports and the screws under the control panel - note that the screws holding the clock are metric thread not self tappers. Take the screws out of the left and right hand hotplate trays. You can now lift up the left hand tray. !!Be careful!! you only need to lift it about an inch and then back a couple of inches to reveal the screws on the top of the control panel, if you lift it too high you can break off the ignition wires. Lift the right hand hotplate tray on the left side and slide to the right, you can now move it back to reveal the control panel screws. Take these out and the panel can come forward. I supported it on the grill door and right hand oven door whilst I accessed the timer. Make a note of which coloured wires go where - take a picture with a digital camera to be sure - then remove wires and replace. Fit the retaining screws for the clock before putting the control panel back. Reverse the process for re-assembly. If you contact espares you will need the cooker serial number, which with our cooker was on the frame on the right of the plate warmer drawer when you pulled it out. I think different rangemasters have different clocks depending on age and whether they are electric/gas or dual fuel, but I am not certain of that. I downloaded the 110 Gas users guide which explains how to do it, this is probably available for other fuels.

Alan Parsons, May 2009

i had same problem with timer, connecting the two blue wires together did the trick. thank you all.

Tom, April 2009

like many many people same problem. If you want to fix the problem immediately and do not mind losing the clock function - in our case we never used it - do the following; Lift the hob and looking directly down at the clock, there will be 2 blue wires on the left hand side. Disconnect both from the unit and attach both blue wires to each other - very very easy to do as the connections at the end of the wires allow for this. Like I say, you will have no clock function but will be able to use the oven in the way it was meant to work. No cost no hassle - it will solve the problem

mark p, October 2007

I had the the same problem, the timer/clock unit was faulty and would not reset properly. However, they are easily sourced (£70-£130, so shop around) and replaced, but I would advise getting a gas fitter out to replace the unit unless you can move the cooker out to get at the back, and are competent to dismantle and refit the parts yourself. It takes about an hour to replace if you know how to dismantle the hotplate assembly and front panel (it took me many more as I had no service manual...)

Jon W., May 2007