To replace the drive belt on a Creda Ecodry series 37647E tumble drier
The process requires the removal of the top and the front panels. The job took me approximately 3 hours.
Tools required: Philips type cross-head screwdriver, 3mm hex key, pliers and strong adhesive tape.
It’s best to place the machine where there is plenty of light and room to work around it.
With the machine upright remove the top panel by removing the three screws from the rear. There is one at the left and two at the right, each side of the water pipe.
Slide the top panel to the rear about one inch and lift the panel off.
At the front of the machine behind the fascia, there is a square circuit board populated with a black regulator and other components. The wires to the board must be disconnected to enable the fascia to be moved. The wires are fitted green/yellow (earth) to E, black to NEON brown/black to T5, brown to L and Blue to N.
Remove the water collector.
Remove the two screws from the water collector opening. The upper screw is fitted with a protective plastic sleeve
Remove the timer knob. Remove the two screws that retain the timer control to the fascia. These screws are quite small.
Removal of the fascia is quite delicate as it is possible to damage its fittings. Start by pulling the fascia panel gently along the top edge, while at the same time depressing the plastic clips that hold it in place. I found it easier to start from the left end and release each clip in turn. You may find it useful to use a thin bladed screwdriver or blunt knife. Once the fascia panel has been released from the top, lift it gently forward and upward until free from the bottom clips. The panel will still be retained by the cables, but it’s not necessary to completely remove it.
From the bottom of the timer control there is an earth wire attached to the door/drum assembly. Disconnect the earth wire which is retained by a setscrew, shake-proof washer and nut. The fascia panel will be free to move. The wires prevent the fascia panel from being completely removed but act as a hinge to enable easy access.
At this point, I found it easier to continue if you lay the machine on its back.
Move the fascia panel to enable access to the two screws (one at each end) which retain the front panel in place.
Remove the two screws from the water collector drawer
At the bottom of the front panel, remove the plastic trim and the right and left condenser panel and fan covers. The fan cover is retained by two screws.
Remove the kick panel, retained by eight screws.
From the base of the machine, remove the panel which is retained by four screws.
This will reveal the air box. Be prepared to see a LOT of congealed fluff in this area. The air box is attached to a plastic box section duct by a rubber boot, secured by heavy duty tape. The duct feeds the hot air into the condenser.
Remove the tape.
There is a water drain at the base of the housing, retained by a clip. Use the pliers to open the clip and disconnect the pipe from the plastic “Y” connector.
Clean the fluff from the air box to reveal two small screws. Remove the two screws. They’re small and a bit fiddly.
The front panel is now ready to be removed. Gently lift the panel off. You may find a bit of resistance as it clears the drum opening. There is also a gasket between the front panel and air box which may stick to the panel.
Remove the fan which is secured to the motor spindle by a 3mm hex screw. Access is not brilliant but you only need about one eighth of a turn to release it. Lift the fan off the spindle. There is a water drain at the base of the fan housing, retained by a clip. Use the pliers to open the clip and disconnect the pipe from the plastic “Y” connector.
Remove the fan housing by undoing the two screws from the bracket and lift off.
This will reveal the motor spindle and two guide wheels on pivots.
Remove the remains of the broken drive band.
Now is a good time to clean the congealed fluff off all the components (and make yourself a brew).
After several attempts, I found the easiest way to fit the replacement drive belt is to place it around the drum first, ribbed side against the drum and lined up with the wear marks on the drum. Feed the drive belt over the motor spindle and between the two guide rollers. I found it easier to fit it through the left hand roller first, then pull the right hand roller against its spring to make space to manoeuvre the drive belt over the spindle and through the roller. The spindle has grooves in it so the belt ribs fit in the groves. Try to centre the drive belt in the grooves, ensuring that it sits snugly between the rollers.
Carefully rotate the drum by hand to seat the drive belt and confirm that it is centred on the guide wheels.
Now to put it all back together again.
Start by refitting the fan housing, securing the bracket with two screws. Ease the rubber boot around the box section and secure firmly with NEW heavy duty tape. Don’t re-use the old tape as it won’t be sticky enough.
Refit the fan and secure with the 3mm hex screw.
Refit the water drain and secure with clip.
Refit the front panel. Take care to guide the opening into the drum (the edge fits inside the drum opening). Take care to ensure that no wires are trapped.
Refit the air box, and secure with two small screws. As previously mentioned, they’re a bit fiddly.
Refit the water drain and secure with clip.
Refit the front panel using two screws, one at each end.
Refit the water tank drawer using two screws, one at each end – not the centre screw hole.
Refit the panel at the base of the machine, using four screws.
Refit the kick panel using eight screws.
Refit fan panel using two screws.
Refit condenser panel.
Refit plastic trim.
Stand machine upright.
Rotate the drum by hand to confirm that the drive belt does not wander off line.
Refit earth wire using set-screw, shake-proof washer and bolt.
Refit facia, bottom edge first – fit plastic clips into slots. Gently push top edge until top clips engage with slots.
Refit the timer control to the fascia, secure with two small screws.
Refit control knob.
Refit two screws into the water collector housing. Remember, top screw should be covered by the protective plastic cover.
Reconnect the electrical cables in the order described previously.
Refit the top panel, ensure the plastic mounting studs engage with the slots in the panel, slide the panel forward. Check that it sits flush with the main body. Secure with the three screws at the rear.
Refit the water tank.
Plug in and test.
JOB DONE!
Barry, July 2008
