Hi
This isn't a problem at all, if you have the two-button radio-fob. With all the car doors (and bonnet) closed, press the radio-fob "Lock" (left-hand) button FOUR times quickly to re-synchronise. I can't remember whether it's required that the doors have been un- or locked with the key first, so try both. The car immobiliser is programmed at the factory to complement own its radio-fobs, battery disconnection doesn't change this; so if they ever worked, they CAN AGAIN with this technique.
If you know the immobiliser code and your problem is (merely!) that your fobs aren't working (and so can't be re-scynchronised), you can use the immobiliser override procedure. This involves entering the code, digit-by-digit, by "pulsing" the key alternately to the unlock/lock positions to enter each digit in turn:
1. Jot down the 4-digit code - don't let it blow away!
2. Close all the doors and bonnet, lock the car with the key and withdraw it.
3. Insert key into the driver's door lock, turn key to the right and hold for 5 seconds. Return key to vertical.
4. Turn the key to the left briefly and return to vertical, for the number of times of the 1st digit of the code. For example, if the 1st digit is 8--- "pulse" the key to the left EIGHT times.
5. Turn the key to the right briefly and return to vertical, for the number of times of the 2nd digit of the code.
6. Turn the key to the left briefly and return to vertical, for the number of times of the 3rd digit of the code.
7. Turn the key to the right briefly and return to vertical, for the number of times of the 4th digit of the code.
8. Turn the key to the left/unlock position and open the door. If it's worked, the immobiliser LED on the dash will not be lit - and the engine can be started.
If an incorrect code is entered, the car horn will give a momentary "beep". You can try again by opening and closing the driver's door; the car only knows you've done that if the interior lamp switch is works properly. Check the interior lamp lights when you've opened the door, if not give the switch (mounted on the doorcase at the latch end) a manual wiggle to operate it! If you enter an incorrect code three times, you must wait ten minutes before resuming attempts.
Once the immobiliser has been deactivated as above, it will remain so indefinitely (and not protect the car from theft!), until the car is once more Locked with its radio-fob. It doesn't reactivate just by having been locked with the ignition key.
If you've never had the radio-fobs or known the immobiliser code, you're more seriously stuffed. You'll have to go along to an ex-Rover dealer with proof of your ownership (V5c, bill of sale, insurance certificate etc) and buy new fobs and pay for programming the fobs and the immobiliser to match. While they're busy looking-up the codes associated with your car, ask them to also supply you with: the key-cut code, radio code and immobiliser code. Ex-Rover dealers are frequently now XPart Service Centres, find them at www.xpartautoservicecentre.com
First rule of buying a Rover: Get two genuine keys and working fobs (test them), the key-cut code, radio code and immobiliser code. These are often written in the spaces for them on detachable cards on the inside back cover of the Owner's Handbook.
Best Wishes
StoppingService, November 2007
