New to grinding, new to honing.

I've purchased a grinding jig for re - grinding the 25deg angle on my wood chisels. I gave them to a friend who said he'd do it but according to my angle guide the angles are wrong, they are also not very sharp. The 25 deg angle doesn't fit the gauge to it's full extent and I also think the 30deg angle is out too. I can't seem to set the jig tool plate to the right angle for grinding the 25 deg angle back up to honing stage. I don't expect a surgical sharpness like a quality new set but to hope to get them sharp enough the shave rather than chip their way through the half lap joints I'm cutting.
I am looking at a new one I've just bought and the 25deg angle is much longer than the chisels my friend seems to have over done it and ground the 25deg to 35-40 very short and acute, if you understand my explanation.
Many thanks

Charles, August 2008

Had to reply under answer section: Yes Caine it's cr*p wood I noticed on one chisel I managed to get an edge on it shaved to the middle one side of the soft wood then started chipping. Turning the cr*p wood and cutting from the other side of the joint it chipped it out I think because the grain seems much coarser.I can't say where I got the wood from as it might go in to litigation if a member of staff is reading this. Any way, thanks for your advice I have had a look at Axminster tools and am ordering a Nipon wet stone. I've been using the oil stones,oil everywhere! so going 'Clean & Green'. perhaps I just need to hone the chisels my mate did properly and try them again.
much appretiated.

charles, August 2008

1st of,what wood are u cutting.30`grind &25 hone is general wood butchery.soft wood of the crap availiable now needs a more acute angle for fine slices.hard wood (oak)may need a steeper angle.grinding is an aid to honeing.the idea is that u have less metal to sharpen off.eventually they need reground or your trying to hone off so much to get an edge that you arms drop off.Set your grinding jig so that when u begin the stone touches th bottom 3/4 of the ground face,then retract the chisel in the jig 1/8 or 3mm.all you want is for the least amount of steel to be removed from the very bottom of tool less than a mill.provided u can feel a wire edge on the back you've done enough.where most go wrong is the chisel has 2 faces.the back must be smooth.If i can see my eye reflected in it then i know its right.If its dull and showing factory grinder marks,you will never be able to pare with it.my dovetail chisels took 2-3 hours to get acceptable from new.The golden rules are.Only remove as much metal as you need.and if you can see the edge,it's blunt.Always spend as much time flattening the back as the face(helps to keep stone flat too)Additional.try using japanese water stone's(Axminster machine tools/rutlands)they are cleaner,faster,easy to flatten and the gold standard ones produce an edge that just makes you want to go find something else to sharpen as well.so much fun it's probably perverted.bliss.

caine, August 2008