Simpson MaxiDry 457 - The complete guide to disassembly & reassembly.

After having spent nearly a whole working day plus 3 evenings on this machine model (and finally getting it right! I was THIS close to it ending up in landfill!), I thought I would post up a complete solution to disassembling and reassembling it, as many posts I have read seem to have confusing and even conflicting instructions. I hope it helps others.

1. *****DISCONNECT FROM POWER!*****
2. For the purpose of this guide, the "TOP" refers to the cabinet section which is uppermost when the unit is wall mounted. It is the ONLY face which has a join, or seam running from front to back. The "BASE" refers to the opposite end, closest to the control dials. "FRONT" and "BACK" have their normal meanings.
3. Remove lint filter from inside the drum. Behind where the lint filter was, remove the 4 hex screws using a 1/4" socket. (THIS is the point where I believe most people, including me, have come to grief - when removing the back cover without doing this step, the drum being still attached to the back panel, drags the belt, spring & tensioner sideways to where all of them fall out of place and then you can't work out how it all goes back together).
4. With an old blanket on the ground for protection, stand the unit on its FRONT. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 4 screws from the 2 black plastic covers and remove them. Remove the rear drive belt.
5. Using a 1/4" socket, remove the 11 hex screws holding the BACK panel on. Don't remove the 2 screws which secure the motor to the cabinet frame edge (unless you have to, in order to clean the motor properly as at step 7. If you do, note the position of the long clip over the motor frame). You may want to disconnect the four wires which power the fan within the back panel and pull them through the plastic loops, but note their positions before doing so. Just for reference, the blue wire connects to the uppermost terminal (1), followed by the black with TWO wires on the spade clip (2), followed by the next spade clip which leads from it (3), followed by the last single black (4). Pull the back panel away and out of where it slots into the BASE. (Continued.....)

westoz, August 2008

Many thanks for your detailed reassembly remedy. Was at the point of frustration when I came across your answers. Much appreciated.

Trevor, October 2014

This works 100%. I would never have worked this out. And I am quite handy.

On my dryer there is a tab to pull out behind the lint filler to disengage the drum from the back plate. This meant I did not need to remove the four hex screws mentioned in #3. The warning on the back of the dryer says this.

M, August 2013

The blower bell are broken how can I buy it and what diameter of bell ?
thank you

An Nguyen, May 2011

(Continued from above...)

6. Reach inside between the drum and cabinet and disconnect the spring from the TOP inside seam. The tensioner will fall away and belt will fall loose. Lift the drum straight up and out of the cabinet. Remove belt from motor. Remove tensioner arm from slots in motor support behind the motor.
7. Vacuum out all that built-up lint inside the cabinet, pay special attention to the motor and heating element ring visible inside the front panel. These are the source of that "burning" smell caused by lint build-up.
8. Now for reassembly. Source any new belts as needed. Place the large drive belt around the middle of the drum with the teeth section contacting the drum surface, securing in place with a strong peg, to form a loop made up of the slack. You will see the black drive mark caused by the belt teeth on the drum outer, for correct position. As others have suggested, you may want to tape the belt to the drum instead or as well.
9. With the cabinet still sitting on its FRONT, place the drum with the belt loop pointing towards the motor drive wheel, back inside making sure the loading hole matches the guides inside the front door.
10. Have the spring close at hand. Working from the TOP end of the cabinet, hold the tensioner in your right hand with the white pulley wheel facing down and the spring connection tab to your left. Now while in this position, place belt loop slack through the middle of the tensioner between the pulley wheel and tensioner body, then put end of belt onto the motor drive wheel. Then hook the tensioner legs into the slots below the motor, and at the same time remove the peg and draw the tensioner towards the drum so that the pulley wheel contacts the outside of the belt, taking up the slack. Hold in place with right hand while you grab the spring with your left hand. Place the spring between the tensioner tab hole and the hole in the TOP inside seam.
11. The remainder of reassembly is a simple reversal of steps 1-5.

NOTES:
(a) Contrary to what others have posted regarding this model, there is NO cut off switch. At least not one that the spring attaches to; I believe this is built into the motor itself.
(b) The inside metal seam has two holes in it - the spring attaches to the one which is obviously aligned with the belt drive system.
(c) Don't forget to reconnect any wires if you disconnected them at step 5.
(d) Any residual burning smell should clear soon after the motor has had a bit of a run... mine was running like a new machine within around 3 minutes.

westoz, August 2008