GG asked ... Fix food processor motor?    |    T asked ... How do I turn the delay off on Electrolux DX302 dishwasher?    |    Helen asked ... How can I mend my Kenwood Gourmet FP505?    |    Roy Turner asked ... Kohlangaz Gosford HE fire?    |    Peter asked ... How can I mend a Powerwasher PRO PRO1800PWE?    |    Click here to ask your question

how can i fix heatline s24/s30 combi-boiler?

i have a heatline combi-boiler s24/s30 when heating is on boiler cuts out and air pressure light flashes indicating fault changed air pressure switch and checked pipes still got the same problem
geoff scott, December 2008
boiler dose not work c/h no warning lights fiashing

alan dearden, February 2013
my boiler air pressure guege going to red zone after 2 minutes and no perssure bleeding when i open the radiator valve.is it sludge inside the system or pump is faulty please help me out this problem.

saeed, January 2011
I have the same problem working with www.fps-bilding.co.uk , we resoldered some connections and ... boiler back to normal!

Damian, October 2009
You're totally right I shouldn't be fixing the boiler myself, I should be able to employ someone to fix it.

But I couldn't.

John Boy, April 2009
I also had a Heatline S30 boiler with this same intermittent fault.

I switch the boiler on and it will ignite and pump water to the rads but after 5-10 mins the gas will cut out, the boiler then tries to ignite again it sparks but does not ignite. It tries to ingite a few times and then the "check burner ionisation probe" LED flashes. If you switch it off and on again it will work as before for 5-10 mins.

I employed a Corgi (now Gas Safe) registered plumber who immediately concluded it was the gas valve. This was duly replaced but the same fault occured immediately.

We were given a choice of beginning to swap more parts, wiring loom, PCB, electrodes but with no guarantee of success or fitting a new boiler at a cost of £2000.

We have subsequently been getting various quotes and advice. As the boiler had effectively been written off I decided to have a look at the internals myself. I flipped down the control panel and opened it up to check the wires from the ionisation probe. All the wires, and chipsets looked ok, so I flipped over the PCB to inspect the solder joints. Whilst nothing looked too obvious there were a couple of dry joints. I resoldered these joints (one was to the back of the ionisation probe plug!) and closed the control panel. SUCCESS! the boiler now seems to be working perfectly fine but I will keeping a close eye on it for the next month or so.

After reading a number of forums this seems to be a very common fault with the Heatline S24 / S30. A number of other people have also identified this as a wiring issue - so my advice is check this first and save yourself a small fortune!!

John-Boy, April 2009
firstly you shouldnt be carring out repair work on boilers, get a registered installer!!!!!!!!!!!!!

paul, February 2009
link Click here to see other fixes for Heatline.