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How fix Miele W828, 'check inlet' light on, no block in inlet hose?

Miele W828
check inlet red light comes on after filling for some time
appears the machine does not cycle properly
cleaned hose and filter but to no avail
sounds like water is getting in, but does not stop until red light on.
J, December 2005
I love the internet. I'm not 'handy' at all, but thanks to all of you, especially Rockport and Rigsby, I've just diagnosed a faulty solenoid and got our W828 back in working order. Switched the water pipes. Opened the 4 wire connector block and switched wires 2 and 3. Bob's your uncle.

Thank you!

Richard in Oz, May 2018
Thanks again for the answers. I just swapped wires 2 and 3 on the inlet valve as Rigsby suggests.

Very easy, no soldering required and good as new.

Stephen G, April 2017
I feel I should head my two penne tho with: ALWAYS ISOLATE FROM MAINS ELECTRICITY BEFORE REMOVING THE TOP OF YOUR MACHINE.
What a handy thread, particularly Rockport's solution, thank you Rockport. For a while my Miele W806 has been exhibiting the same "check inlet" alarm light after 60 seconds or so, then pumping out the water. i tried using the prewash and could hear a much better flow rate which suggested a failing main wash solenoid valve. I switched the pipes but instead of cutting and switching wires 2 &3 I had a close look at the 4 wire connector block and spotted a tiny tang that prevents the individual connectors from being pushed out. I was able to carefully release the tang with the point of a Stanley knife and remove connectors 2 & 3 and switched them over. All now OK..... unless I ever choose to use the prewash. Replacement 3 way solenoid valves are around £110 for Miele original parts but copies on eBay can be had for around £20. Note: don't get overexcited and forget to connect up the inlet hose before turning on the mains water as I did, still, the floor needed a wash.

Rigsby, November 2016
Thanks to Rockport answer in this post I have just repaired my good old W828 without paying a cent. I switched wires 2 & 3 in the triple valve connector and is now using pre-wash "I" solenoid instead of number "II" (failed).

I discovered that the "spin" program worked flawlessly, apart from the rest of symtoms described above, so I stopped suspecting the engine and pointed in the correct direction: water input valve.

Thanks so much. I saved money and saved the environment from throwing a working machine to waste.

Oscar C., September 2016
If your machine has a WPS hose and you think the hose valve is faulty you can test the machine with a standard hose. Remove the WPS hose from the water supply and from the solenoid assembly in the top of the machine and fit a standard hose. You must keep the wire connected from the WPS pipe at the machine end otherwise the machine will not run a program and therefore not let any water in through the drawer solenoid valve. (if the hose valve is faulty it is still getting the signal from the machine to open but just not opening). If your machine now runs you can either buy a new WPS hose knowing that it will fix it or stick with a standard hose (prob needs to be a longer than standard 1.5m one) and coil the old WPS pipe up behind the machine. So I could close the machine up I removed the wire from the protective tubing over the WPS hose by carefully removing the plug (its a splice type connector so you can remove and reassemble it) or you could just cut the protective sleeve off. I then taped the wire to the new hose.

Morris, repairer of stuff, February 2016
Try checking the thin black pipe coming from bottom of drum,it runs down the right hand side of the machine after the front is opened, have seen one post where the Miele engineer diagnosed this as the problem after the owner had not replaced it properly.
It is part of the water level sensor system.

berabaz, November 2013
I have a Miele W833. Had the same problem. Machine starts and there is a 'water coming in' sound and then after about 60s the "Check Inlet" red light starts flashing. The machine then pumps out the water and then shuts down and the soap powder has gone by then too.

Opened the top cover. The triple solenoid has three pipes going out. One goes to “I” chamber, second goes to “II” chamber and the third one goes to the Softener chamber. I am working only on “II” mode (no pre-wash) so I have suspected the Solenoid Inlet Triple Valve activating “II”. So I switched inlet water pipe that goes to soap chamber between I and II. Also, cut the wires #2 and #3 and switched between the two. So now, the signal goes to Solenoid “I” and actually the water goes to chamber “II”. Problem Solved! Will order a new part and will replace it later on…but no problem working on this mode…!!

Rockport, April 2012
I had a simialr issue. Water trickled in. Machine kept stopping. Had split rubber washer in solenoid valve.
The 3 way valve can be dissassembled. Need to "Gently" prise up and off the solenoid body from the plastic valve assembly. There is a locking type assebley at the top of the solenoid. Squeeze the tabs in. Prise up the solenoid until it clears the valve assembly. I used a lubricant as it was tight. If you exert too much unequal pressure you will snap off the end of the valve assembly. I did. Once you have the solenoid off you must screw off the long stalk part the the solenoid was sitting on from the body of the valve. This houses the metal plunger and spring that closes and opens the valve. The bottom half of the assembly houses the washer. mine was split and I was able to purchase a $5 replacement from a repair shop.( appears to be a common part)

Dave from Oz, July 2010
I Have 1 W828 with what sounds the same three solenoid valve arrangement that was getting very low flow rates on the primary valve. I was going to order a new one but wanted to be sure it was the cause of the problem before forking out the money. Came up with an idea of connecting the primary and secondary solenoid together with a short piece of wire and some solder. Now it switches on both when it runs and gets plenty of water ;-) Cost me nothing!
Recommend checking the contacts with a multimeter - tripped the house fuse the first time.
Would like to know how one can clean the valves though. Did try some CLR but no diff. Any other suggestions?

Martin, August 2009
I have a w929 Miele, and found the solenoid at tap end of filling hose was not working correctly, as with machine end disconnected, from 3 way valves,( but solenoid wire still in place)to activate it, only a trickle of water was coming through, holding it over a bucket.
Remedy, - removed the end cap and smalll filter,tap end, -left handed thread, took a small drill and drilled a hole right through it, and blew it out with the airline. Of course there is no anti flood capability now, but it works perfectly.
Better than it's done for a while I may add.

John A. Wilson., April 2009
We've had the same problem TWICE on our Miele WT 945 S
Replaced one pipe/inlet controller, ran some warm water in and put it on a higher temp cycle and seems to be temporarily working. Tech said it's our hard water in Ballarat Vic Australia that causes blockages. Will get the tech to divert the inlet around the valve and eventually get a cheap washing machine instead!

Attila Danko, February 2009
or any others of you.

bollyanddom, February 2009
seem to be having the same problem, although with a different model (W919). what happened to yours, Spunta?

bollyanddom, February 2009
Yes, I have a Miele washing machine W842 (waterproof) and have the same problem. The machine starts and there is a 'water coming in' sound and then after about 60s the "Check Inlet" red light starts flashing. The machine then pumps out the water and then shuts down (btw the soap powder has gone by then too).

I have replaced / cleaned both inlet filters - no change. I have run the machine with the machine end of the inlet pipe disconnected & over a bucket - surprised at v low flow rate - can only be solenoid/valve adjacent to inlet end. So I then disconnect both ends and start a machine cycle - hey presto the "very clever" inlet valve (to isolate the machine in case of a leak) isn't opening properly.

I call Miele - new hose =UKP172 (if I pick it up myself). Feel sick. I am sure that I have seen same on internet for about UKP 115, but do I need it at all - possibly not. Maybe a UKP10 'normal' hose will do the trick.


Hmmmm.

Thoughts?

Gorilla, September 2008
Did you have any luck with getting this fixed? Our machine is going exactly the same thing......

Fully, August 2008
I have the same problem.... have checked inlet filters, flow rate etc. its really anoying...i have booked a miele repair specialist to come out next friday. I will let you know what he says....unless I can work it out myself before hand.

Spunta, July 2008
link Click here to see other fixes for Miele W828.