I am in the middle of fixing the same washer that's doing the same thing as yours . Except for the spinning when washing . I don't know if all the GLWS1233AS1 machines are EXACTLY alike, But I would assume they are very similar . I am NOT a professional appliance repairman, However I have fixed a few different washers . The most common problem seems to be that the belt slips or smells like it's burning . Which it basically is . I've found that 99% of the time, the seal on the bottom of the washer tub starts to leak after a period of time . It seems that overloading the machine makes it happen faster . Even a small leak can cause big symptoms . When the seal leaks, it dripd onto the drive belt, making it slip . So it starts to get hot and burn slihghtly. It's not bursting into flames type burning . It's rubbing in the same spot until it gets very hot burning . When the belt slips the tub no longer agitates or spins correctly . If you have a machine that has the pump driven by the same belt that makes the tub agitate and spin, The machine lets more water in to rinse . The problem is that the pump never pumped the original wash water out . So you get a MAJOR leak because the tub is overflowing . The way I fixed mine is to get down to the seals on the shaft the tub sits on . You need to remove the fabric softenor cup on top of the big agitator . Under that is a bolt that holds the tub on the shaft .After removing that bolt the tub will slid up the shaft . Under the agitator you will find a holder that is attached with two bolts that run sideways into a metal rectangle shaped block . Removing the bolts will remove the block and let the agitator slid off . Under that you will find 5 bolts that hold the internal tub to a metal ring under it . These can stay . Now you should be able to lift the internal tub up off the shaft . However It will hit the plastic rim around the top of the extrernal tub that the internal tub (The one that spins and agitates) is in . There are small built in clips around the edge of the external tub that hold the top rim on . Take a screwdriver and CAREFULLY unsnap the clips . Remember BE CAREFUL . These clips will be necessary when putting the machine back together . Once you have the top plastic rim removed you will be able to completely remove the internal tub . If it binds or doesn't seem to come off as easy as it should, Try cleaning the shaft with almost anything EXCEPT METAL OR SANDPAPER . You don't want to scratch the shaft where the seals will ride . You can use solvents, plastic dish scubbers or what ever . Just nothing that could potentially scatch the shaft . Now you have FINALLY gotten to the seals. The seals will be a combination of rubber and metal circular pieces . There will also be a spring under the tub as well . The spring is not a seal and unless it's broken it should be good to reuse . The procedure so far may sound like a major undertaking, but it's really not that bad . Now you need to get a new seal kit . They are available from many different sources . And cost about $35-$40 . Reverse the process and hopefully the leak will be fixed and the belt will stay dry so it can do it's job properly . I would definately recommend replacing the belt as well . More than likely it's been damaged from the leak and slipping . Good luck .
Jerry, April 2007
