Miele washing machine repair – July 2014

W460 WPS 2001 Note – date of manufacture should be on top of drum

Removing panels

Need Torx T20 bit for all screws, plus 10mm AF spanner/socket for front bolt

1. Top - Take plastic caps off sides, remove 2 screws, tilt lid up at front and slide backwards to release lugs at rear.

Can now check the shock absorbers by bouncing drum each side ( cf car ) and see belt drive and pulley. Can also massage soap inlet pipe to clear of gunge if necessary.

2. Front - ie middle part excluding top panel.

Take plastic caps off bottom moulding and remove the 2 screws. Slide to right to release lugs and remove to reveal 4 screws holding front panel at bottom.

Remove the 10mm AF bolt below door.

Remove the 2 double screws with plate each side of bottom ( note 1 is a self tapping screw ).

Can now dislodge front panel from top prongs and slide down and out to release.

Warning – it is tricky to get the door seal back onto the front panel – you will need to make a spreader for the spring ( eg 10mm stud with nuts, washers, perforated washers and wire ). In order to remove the front panel completely take the spring loaded circlip from the rubber seal where it connects to the panel. Also remove the screws holding the door latch and slide out the orange door pull release from filter opening.

3. Rubber door seal - not usually necessary to remove the rubber seal from the outer drum unless renewing it. If you intend to replace the existing seal then measure the bolt to nut distance for future reference re tightness ( ie should not be too tight – I left it 2 mm short of the original position ). Then undo the jubilee style clip around the seal connecting the rubber seal to the outer drum - enough to release but not completely or could lose the nut part.

4. Sides – Not usually necessary, but now easily removed by undoing the screws top, front and back ( 3 each, but note different screws on upper back ) There is a plastic lug at bottom to release.

Empty the filter compartment by unscrewing the large plug, and massage the rubber drain pipe to clear it of any debris. There is a large ball vale inside.


Repair done 7/2014 – In my case the problem was the drum fouling on something when it rotates. Checked rear pulley etc and problem definitely inside drum. Felt with suitable size allen key pushed through hole in drum while rotate gently and found to be heater element. It was later found to have been pushed up by something lodged underneath – presumably limescale.

Lots of CaCO3 found in filter – lumps ~ 5-10mm !! More came out when flushed -> 2 eggcups full at least. Consider using Calgon for hot washes ( not worth it for all washes as it would be more expensive than a new washer!! ) and periodically cleaning with Kilrock phosphoric acid for washing machines.

Felt rubber drain pipe at bottom – full of limescale lumps. Squeezed and dislodged so lumps fall out – can tilt to assist.

When empty ( including filter compartment ) it takes 2600 ml to fill to just above bottom of drum.
Used hot RO water plus double dose kilrock ( ie whole bottle ) 2x to clear CaCO3 – 1600ml hot RO first, then Kilrock, then ~750ml hot RO to fill to level, rotate drum by hand periodically for ~ 1 hour and then flush out onto patio by removing the filter plug. Repeat.

Rinse with tapwater.

Then pushed and prodded the heater element until it sprung back into its usual position. Then drum rotated without fouling.

Panels are replaced by reversing the above procedures. Don’t overtighten the jubilee style clip around the rubber seal or you may damage it. Also note the need for a spring spreader to replace the spring loaded seal circlip onto front panel.

Once reassembled the washer was tested and found to be okay again. Moral is use Kilrock periodically, and use a Calgon tablet with hot washes. Calgon is too expensive for regular use – you could buy a new washing machine for the cost!!

EricMarlow, July 2014