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Dish drawerDD60D (apparently DD606) touch control board?

Have another problem, when I changed controllers between drawers, the cycle touch control panel issue moved with it. Sometimes the touch control works sometimes not.

I don't know the history of the machine but I noticed that this temperamental controller has had a ring of solder applied to the fast forward button's circuit board. Seems to me that this was an attempt to fix some other problem in the past.

The other controller works fine in it's new location.

Is it possible to replace the small, slim circuit board at the top of the controller (the touch sensitive board) ?
Phil, August 2016
Thanks Lincoln, I'll leave it for now as it works sometimes and I usually just leave the thing on normal.
I just took delivery of new dish racks and F&P changed the design. They did not include any info on the new RH assembly and it took 3 phone calls and a merry-go-round of transfers to sort out. So a new smaller opening hatch had to replace the old bigger one, the left plate rack no longer folds and the right plate track had a specific way of being assembled. They had to send me a photo how to do this. Spare parts people had no idea and two calls to customer care finally got me to a specialist. If only the other companies made a drawer system, if only!!

Phil, August 2016
Phil, that touch sensor board is not sold as a spare part by F&P. You have to buy a complete new control board. If you can't see any dry solder joints or cleaning the touch pads doesn't work then you will have to get a new board and solve the problem once & for all.

Lincoln Appliance NZ, August 2016
I was hoping that there was familiarity with this board. It's directly under the touch panel of the dishdrawer. There are only two areas of the board that detect the touch operation and one of these has had a circle (ring) of solder applied to it's outline possibly to improve detection. I suspect who did this as an attempt to improve impedance, induction or whatever it is that detects touch, in the mistaken belief this was a problem. Anyway, I'll get the solder sucker onto it and see if that gives better operation, I'd just rather replace this little sub-board with a new one, It's about 20mm x 100mm from memory.

Phil, August 2016
All I do is guess - I'm not an appliance engineer - my guesses are based on a career servicing electronic equipment. I'm unable to properly form a mental image of what you've got.

I suspect the piece that gives you concern is attached to a larger assembly. I also guess that the sub-assembly is an intrinsic part of the main - i.e. you will not be able to buy the sub assembly on its own - but no matter.

Even if you could buy a replacement sub assembly you would need to disassemble the small part from the main board to make the change - so why not do that now and inspect the joints?

As for fault diagnosis - if it is a bad connection - you can often induce the fault - or make it go away - with some gentle tapping - the handle of a wooden spoon or plastic screwdriver.

I doubt very much that the sub assembly is available as a spare part - but I only guess - have you contacted a spares supplier - do you have a part number?

Your risk of course that if you do make an attempt as I suggest then re-assembly might fail and then you'll have to buy the larger assembly anyway.

Similarly - if you can get hold of the small part you may still have difficulty bringing the two parts together.

Can you afford a service call?
Can you afford the appliance to be off-line for a few days?

Continuing Good Luck..., August 2016
Thanks for that,but before I pull anything apart, my strong suspicion points to that slim sensor board, especially as someone has applied a small coin sized ring of solder under that fast forward control, the finger sensor control. So back to pulling things apart again (sigh) just would have been better to know if that slither of a circuit board is available as a part. Not keen on buying a controller.

Phil, August 2016
What you describe is typical of a bad soldered joint - intermittently working and not working - or perhaps a poor connection in a cable between circuits.

Failing electronic components usually fail permanently - an intermittent component is very unusual. A poor soldered joint much more common in comparison.

A previous solder repair points to a dry or cold joint issue.

Before any drastic action you would do well to carefully examine the soldered joints on your suspect PCB

Use Google Images - Dry Joint - as a guide of what to look for.

Good Luck..., August 2016