If your boiler is running continuously i would suggest that you check the basics before spending anymore cash!
You bolier requires 2) 240v inlet live signals in order for it to light....
1) A 240v pemanant live, N & earth this will power the boilers PCB (printed circuit board) & allow for the internal pump over run stat to power the pump in order to circulate hot water thru the heat exchanger & allowing the appliance to cool down thus stopping it from going into overheat lockout mode inbetween cycles or ON/OFF peroids..... more commmon on high Kw rated boilers.
2) A 240v switched live, this is an external signal sent from an outside sorce in order to ignight the burners ie......
Timeclock via room stat (if fitted)
Cylinder stat
Motorized valve(s)
I would suggest you carry out the following checks, switch off all external controls just leave on the main boiler 240v supply.
Remove the right hand control panel on the boiler in order to expose the wiring strip! using a multi-meter check for 240v between the SWL (switch live) & a good earth, if your meter displays 240v then you have a switch live coming from a mororized valve this is because in most instances the micro switches fitted in motorized valves have 2 wires a 240v inlet normaly wired to a permanant sorce this wire is colour coded grey.
The micro switch also has a 240v outlet colour coded orange this is you SWL signal....... if you motorized valve is jammed in the fully opened position or the internal micro switch is jammed in the closed circuit mode then it will send a demand signal to the SWL on the appliance thus switching it on regardless.
Either that or there is a live looped between the perminant live & SWL but i guess you would have worked that out because the boiler would have always behaved in this mannar??
good luck mate!!
Collin, December 2008