Some machines test the motor rotation on power up and if this is abnormal they simply abort the program. Check out the carbon brushes in the motor. Theyre graphite blocks which transfer mains power to the copper segments of the motor -Theyre probably worn down. They're quite cheap parts and easy to replace. Power off, drag machine out onto the floor, remove the back cover and locate the motor. May help if the machine is tilted at an angle or laid on its side. The brushes are at the other end of the motor from the drive pulley. The holders are plastic or bakelite and are generally held in with screws or plastic clips. Also, look at the copper segments they run on to check for burning or pitting. If the segments are burnt or damaged you need a replacement motor or a replacement armature (motor part) if you can source one. Occasionally may be a fault in the motor drive circuit board - in which case replacement of board only real option.
Check the pressure switch -the system that determines correct water level in the drum. If its giving an incorrect indication to the program timer machine will either overfill, refuse to fill or refuse to spin. Its an air operated diaphragm switch triggered by rising air pressure induced by the entry of water into an airtight vessel attached to the base of the drum. It tells the program timer that the water has reached the correct level, allowing it to proceed to the water heating stage in the cycle. Power off, drag machine out onto the floor, remove back cover and top cover. The pressure switch is a round item about 3 inches across with several wires and a thin rubber pipe attached. It generally sits just under the top cover. Disconnect the thin rubber pipe from the switch and blow down through it to clear any blockage. Switch itself may be faulty but its more likely the pressure pipe or the vessel attached to the other end of the pipe is blocked. Some machines have the pressure vessel integrated as part of the filter unit, with a pressure chamber moulded into the top of the filter body. Remove the pressure vessel, put a small nut or screw in it, fill it with water and shake vigorously till any crud or residue is removed. Refit all parts, check that joints and connections are water tight.
Power off, drag machine out onto the floor, remove back cover or tip machine up at an angle. Check the heater, heater connections, thermostat connections and the connections on the timer, (looking for a burnt out terminal or wire). Heater is located at bottom of drum. If testing with a multimeter, disconnect the wiring and take a resistance reading across the terminals - should be around 20 ohms. If heater is blown (broken internal heater wire) it will give an infinite resistance. There should be no continuity between the either terminal and the metal sheath of the heater - if there is, there's an internal short circuit. When removing heater, disconnect wiring, undo central mounting nut and prise it out of its rubber seal - may require some effort. Replace heater, use sealant when refitting rubber seal and ensure it is fully pushed into the recess in the backplate. Make sure the element locates into mounting bracket inside the drum.(look inside the element with a torch and you will see mounting bracket). This bracket ensures that the moving inner drum doesnt strike the element and damage it.
If none of that works, youre goosed.
Repair and service your own washing machine. Go to www.2ndwave.co.uk/manual.html
dannyboy, January 2009
