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How can I fix my pull-cord light switch?

the rope of my pull-cord switch came off and when I unscrewed the small plastic part on the ceiling, several parts fell down.
Can anyone show a picture how to put them back together?
susi, December 2005
Thanks for this thread which gave me what I needed to reassemble mine. Got a bit confused by the order and what was up and down but got there after realising the small jobby didn't have teeth that faced one way or the other but just sat (first) in the housing.

Rick, October 2022
Wonderful instructions, very clear and helpful

Sam, December 2017
12 years later and your instructions are still being read and used. Thank you for posting. Light pull works perfectly now

Nanny Donut, November 2017
Thank you Chris for saving our pull switch on third attempt we cracked it - when the light came on you'd have thought we'd won the lottery!

Jane, June 2016
Thanks so much from a very grateful (and not entirely diy competent) bloke

rob, May 2016
Thanks Chris! It was so hard to find this info - what a great clear explanation.

Claire, April 2016
Brill Gregory - that extra bit of info re: the smaller plastic bit was crucial!

John, Banbury, February 2016
7 years later: thanks Chris for your 2008 very clear answer about the light pull cord repair.

W & S

Wilma, August 2015
Thank you, just followed your instructions and saved myself calling out an electrician.

Linda, December 2014
See the answer from Chris below. It works! many thanks Chris

ps One way to help get cord through the small hole is to wrap sellotape around the end which stops the fraying.

Felix, December 2014
Good on yer Chris - with 3839 ways to do it wrong, it only took me about 3 or 4 shots (& hours) to do it right.
The problem was the small plastic jobby, which I persisted in sticking in upside down, & then spending more hours getting the cord through.
P.S. When I was a small boy (NZ about 60 years ago) "jobby" meant faeces (I blame my Scottish ancestry).
P.P.S. Your advice was free - could you nominate a charity for me to send £5 to?

Ross Anderson, November 2014
Thanks Chris

caroline, November 2014
Thanks Chris 2008, I can pee standing up now :)

sid, September 2014
Big thanks to Chris - this was the only place I could find instructions that applied to the light fixture I have, not to mention such good ones. Got it working again and am glad I stubbornly refused to buy a new one - it feels awesome fixing it myself!

MTP, August 2014
Fantastic Chris great help

Regards

Dan Evans

Daniel Evans, August 2014
Chris,

Genius, I cant tell you how much this has helped me!

Thanks,
Andy

Andy, May 2014
Thanks for the answer Chris I have been looking for this solution. Re the difficulty of threading the chord.If its Nylon burning the end with a cigarette lighter, match or gas ring and then quickly flattening with damp finger creates a harder bit on the end which can make the threading easier. This can work for shoelaces with frayed ends when trying to re-lace shoes etc..

John Plumridge, February 2014
Thank you ..to Chris for the answer and Daktari for the link..
Just another quick tip when threading the chord..start from the other end i.e untie the knot attached to the pull 'bell' and thread from the top down.the hole in the little plastic jobby is bigger at the top and not quite so fiddly

Chris Jones, January 2014
Brilliant answer Chris - I dismantled my pull-cord light switch with its broken cord and then followed your instructions to put it back together successfully and it worked!! The trickiest bits were rethreading the cord through the small plastic jobby - I used sellotape in the end to stop the end fraying and it stiffened it too making it easy to thread; also I got the small plastic jobby the wrong way up to begin with. I found these photos which were a great help:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=977456

daktari, January 2014
Those instructions were great, we found our 2 springs and metal and plastic jobbies and it all fitted perfectly! Thanks

H, January 2014
Thanks Chris...was looking all last night for a guide and just found this today....i hope to get my light working using your i nstructions tomorrow....thanks in advance as im sure given everyone elses response that it will work. :):)

Pete, December 2013
Chris - Thank you so much - you're a star!
Just fixed mine following your excellent instructions to the letter, even down to using a very small allen key to thread the cord. It worked perfectly first time.
Thanks again.

Jean, October 2013
Thank you Chris, I have spend a happy morning following your clear instructions reconstructing the baffling array of springs, widgets and doodahs back into a working light switch. Thank you so much.

David, July 2013
Thanks Chris, Yet another satisfied customer. Would not have be able to put the gubbins back together without instuctions. Now its fixed and working within 5 minutes at no cost for new parts or the expense of an electician. If what goes around comes around you are due some real good luck!

Sue, July 2013
Thank you Chris! Since my husband died I've had to learn to do these kind of things myself, and people like you make that possible. Even though they're only simple things it gives me such a sense of achievement when I manage to do them. Thank you!! :)

PS - Whoever said that diamonds are a girl's best friend had never heard of Google....

Anne, April 2013
Chris - You're a legend. You should write instruction manuals or 'How to' guides for a living ;-) Add my name to the list of people your post back in 2008 has really helped! Many thanks! :-D

Steve, April 2013
Chris - you are a superstar! Your instructions were clear and having electrocuted myself once already, I was able to fix the issue within 5 minutes of reading your guide.

Memo to self - never let the missus attempt to do this on her own, not knowing what she has taken from where when she hasn't turned the power off properly.

You saved my life!

Dan, March 2013
Chris, genius instructions that have saved me loads of wasted time. Now my jobbies are in the right order and the light is back on! Thanks for taking the time to post. Cheers, Mark

Mark, March 2013
Thank you.... just followed the instructions above and it worked fine...

DF, March 2013
Thank you Chris 2008 - you have just illuminated my bathroom again.

My pull cord SNAPPED above the plastic cord joiner, so I took the fitting apart only for it to explode under the spring pressure.

I had actually worked out how it went back together as it is a simple cam-follower mechanism. My problem was that the metal jobby would not stay attached to the large plastic jobby. On closer inspection I could see a perfect circle etched in the copper so deduced I was missing something. Thanks to your post I realised it was the large spring. Which I eventually found.

I do have one tip though:

When it come to threading the cord through the small hole in the small plastic jobby, the best and quickest method is to get a small length of cotton.

Make a few loops around the end of the cord and pull tight, thread the 2 ends of the cotton through the small plastic jobby and pull.

The cotton grips and compresses the cord and it pulls right through without issue.

======================================================

QUOTE: Chris 2008

ve just done mine - if yours is anything like it you'll have the following bits:

2 x spring (one thin about 2mm diameter, the other about 5 or 6 mm diameter)
2 x plastic jobbies
1 x metal jobby

The metal bit will fit onto the larger of the plastic jobbies. There should be gaps so that when you slide the metal jobby onto the plastic jobby you'll have some metal sitting almost flush with the 'lip' of the plastic. That's the bit that makes the connection between the wires and gives you light.

Now, here comes the tricky bit. Make sure you've threaded the cord through the housing (easy) and then through the smaller spring (not so easy, but if you twist as you push it helps). Then drop the larger spring over that, so both springs are sitting in the bottom of the housing.

Now add the larger plastic jobby with the attached metal bit. The metal bit should be on the bottom. The plastic jobby has teeth on it, around the outside. These should have the pointy bits facing upward (ie, away from the housing).

Now you need to add the smaller plastic jobby. This is the one that causes all the trouble, as you have to thread the cord through a really narrow opening. Spit & twist on the end of the cord only frayed it, for me. The tool that really saved the day for me was an Allen key, the smallest I had - just line up the cord and push it through. It'll take several pushes, but you should be able to get enough through that you can pull from the other side. Then, tie a knot in it to prevent it slipping back through.

Make sure that the teeth on the smaller plastic jobby are facing downwards, or toward the housing - so that they match up with the teeth on the larger plastic jobby. I had to rethread that thing at least 3 times, working that one out...

Now, in order to reassemble it, pull the string down and wrap it around your finger or hand - you want to make sure the mechanism is retracted inside the housing for fitting. I had to do this as I don't have a clue which breaker controls the lights. And I'm too good-looking to die of electric shock. But anyway, it also makes assembling it easier. Then just screw the black box with the nasty wires onto the housing, and the housing back into the ceiling, and Bob is your mother's brother - working pull-cord light switch.

So, to sum up, the assembly looks like this:

Cord knot
Small plastic jobby, teeth V
Large plastic jobby, teeth ^
Metal jobby, with raised bits in line with large plastic jobby
Large spring
Small spring
Housing

Good luck..!

Chris
July 2008

escribblings, March 2013
Thank u so much Chris July 2008..... I am one of those weird people who hate not being able to fix things... i would sit for hours playing around with something rather than replace it lol... ur instructions were fab!!! i got it right first attempt so i only had to thread it once!!!! Dont think i would have ever got it myself as i had the springs at either end of the plastice jobbys lol xxx THANKS AGAIN...

Jenni, December 2012
ross you are a star thanks very much

raymondo, November 2012
I have fitted mine back as instructed but the light won't turn on now, could I have done something wrong :-(

Dawn, September 2012
Thankyou Chris July 2008 - this answer worked for us after much deliberation before we looked on the internet.

Red Robbo, January 2012
Replace it with a new one, much cheaper than calling an electricion. Cost around £3'50, keep the wires to the same places. SWITCH OFF THE POWER FIRST!.

john Eyles, January 2012
me too got to get the wife happy again or i am in big trouble

andy, December 2011
i'm in the dark with this one

maureen, December 2011
What a great help this was. I had exactly that problem, followed the instructions and bingo! Job Done. I worked in the opposite direction as I first tied the knot then threaded the bits on in the reverse order that suggested. That move kept all the bits in order on the string until it came time to put the gubbins into the plastic holder. A little tension and it was no bother getting them all together without the need for a third hand.

Dougie, May 2011
Hi Chris,

Thanks for your answer. My switch is also fixed. However I it took me ages to recover from a laughing fit after reading your fix (and some of the replies).

You're in the wrong job. you should be a comedy script writer.

It was worth the broken switch just to read your description of the fix.

By the way selotope stops the cord from fraying.

Thanks

Eric

Eric, March 2011
HI Iwan,

the answers start at the bottom of the page.

Eric

Eric, March 2011
you say thanks chris but where is his answear

iwan, December 2010
Chris - You're a legend and I now have a happy wife once again. I doubt it will last but I'll make the most of it in the meantime. Cheers for the simple instructions.

General Urko, December 2010
People - I followed your instructions and an now a proud owner of a working bathroom light!! It was the contact points bit where I kept going wrong, but all done.

Thanks very much for the help!

elli, October 2010
Thx Chris!! you're my superhero, british electric appliances are the villains.

Carlo London, October 2010
Trying to repair a broken pull cord bathroom light is a nightmare! Having spent nigh on four hours trying to figure out how to put this darned thing back together, I finally gave up and went to the store and bought a new fitting for less than a fiver.
Trouble was, when I had taken the unit apart to fit the new cord, I had not noted where the wiring from the circuit should go into the unit!
After several attemps and precariously standing on a wobbly old chair trying to fix it all, I did what I should have done in the beginning - I called a qualified electrician and he did it in no time at all.

When my Dad was around he was a very seasoned and clever DIYer, but he told me two things you should never mess with and leave to the professionals are gas and electricity. I think he was right.

James Stirling, October 2010
thanks the whole thing had come to bits inside and the cord had snapped inside it worked a treat saved me byin one

neil, May 2010
Perfect instructions Ross, followed them and eventually got it to work. Small addition to the instructions, before threading the chord, burn the end with a match or lighter, makes it easier to thread and you will have to do it more than once. Also, before putting it all back together, undo the wires from the black thingy, should only be two, black and a red. Then you can re-assemble the switch at ground level. This way u can check it clicks when u pull the cable. Then re-connect the wires and housing.

martyn nash, May 2010
Searched all night for instructions on how to do this, then this morning I found this site. Thanks so much for the advice, replacing is just not an option for me, I replaced it a few months ago and the celing crumbled away when I did so, resulting in a lot of filler and no nails now holding it up, lol.

Thanks again Cherie

Cherie, April 2010
Just wanted to add a big thank you! Like so many before me when the cord broke in my hand with the break inside the switch I merrily unscrewed the casing only to find it all leaping apart under the force of the freed springs in the casing...
Without the guidance below I never would have got all the various bits back in the right order...
p.s. Chris - just love the description of the pieces - small plastic jobby and large plastic jobby is right up my street!!!
Thanks all! :-)

Margaret, February 2010
Thanks Chris and Gregory

I was struggling to reassemble the so-an-so but your

Rog, February 2010
Thank you Chris - very useful instructions!

Andy, February 2010
My son managed to pull the cord out completely so I followed Chris's directions to put it back in.

The same thing happened to me, everything fell out of the housing leaving me with a fun puzzle to sort out. I gave up trying to fix this after an hour of trial and error and two toddlers begging for attention. So thanks to Gregory and Chris and your clear instructions (having done all the hard work for me) all is working now.

I guess if there is something actually broken or missing inside the spring mechanism then you will need to replace it but you will then need to rewire the plug.

Hopefully it will be as simple as rethreading the cord and screwing it back on like it was for me.
Thanks guys!

Ruth, January 2010
I just wanted to say thank you so much, Bob, Gregory and Chris. I was nearly in tears trying to do this at a bizarre angle in my bathroom- even though i did it once before - effortlessly. This time everything fell out and I just couldn't figure it out. Taken me 2 hours till I thought i'd see if anyone could help. I love you all!!

Sarah, July 2009
The 2 answers below this one seem fine, so read them first.

A point to add for clarification, when you add the metal plate to the larger plastic piece, ensure that the contact spots are able to make contact with the contact spots on the rectangle block.

You can do this by holding the whole assembly together and checking this... like a trial run without the screws in.

I ended up putting the whole thing back together and even back in the bathroom before I realised I put the metal plate on wrong... yes, I had to re-thread and all.

All works fine now, and yes, it took me half an hour in total while watching the news, I felt going to B&Q was cheating.

Point of safety, ensure you switch the power off for the ring you are working on from the consumer unit.

Good luck.

BobK, March 2009
Turn the breaker off!
Unscrew the bottom of the housing.
Unscrew the rectangular "wiring housing"? from the round bottom housing you just undid
Now, re-thread your cord as follows:
Up through the round bottom housing
Through both springs (smaller inside larger)
Insure the large plastic piece has the copper contactor on the right way i.e. it slips over the downward facing cylindrical non-tooth side with the contact buttons facing UPWARD. The locating pins will help you. The contact buttons are offset at the ends and so will be stepped upwards with the little tits facing the ceiling when installed correctly.
Thread cord through small plastic piece with angled teeth pointing down and cord knot will pull back into deeper well side. Flat ends of "gear" facing up into rectangular housing with the wires on it, angled ends of "gear" meshed with larger plastic piece.
Pull assembly together with the cord making sure the copper contacts stay aligned in the cutouts and wrap securely around your finger to maintain tension.
Whilst maintaining tension, slide bottom housing into rectangular "wire retainer"? and attach two screws. I found it easier to pre-install the screws and hold it together with my free hand, let go the cord and tighten the screws.
Attach bottom housing to baseplate attached to ceiling or wall.
Turn breaker on and ops check.

Gregory, November 2008
I followed the instructions below and it worked for me!

Ross, August 2008
I've just done mine - if yours is anything like it you'll have the following bits:

2 x spring (one thin about 2mm diameter, the other about 5 or 6 mm diameter)
2 x plastic jobbies
1 x metal jobby

The metal bit will fit onto the larger of the plastic jobbies. There should be gaps so that when you slide the metal jobby onto the plastic jobby you'll have some metal sitting almost flush with the 'lip' of the plastic. That's the bit that makes the connection between the wires and gives you light.

Now, here comes the tricky bit. Make sure you've threaded the cord through the housing (easy) and then through the smaller spring (not so easy, but if you twist as you push it helps). Then drop the larger spring over that, so both springs are sitting in the bottom of the housing.

Now add the larger plastic jobby with the attached metal bit. The metal bit should be on the bottom. The plastic jobby has teeth on it, around the outside. These should have the pointy bits facing upward (ie, away from the housing).

Now you need to add the smaller plastic jobby. This is the one that causes all the trouble, as you have to thread the cord through a really narrow opening. Spit & twist on the end of the cord only frayed it, for me. The tool that really saved the day for me was an Allen key, the smallest I had - just line up the cord and push it through. It'll take several pushes, but you should be able to get enough through that you can pull from the other side. Then, tie a knot in it to prevent it slipping back through.

Make sure that the teeth on the smaller plastic jobby are facing downwards, or toward the housing - so that they match up with the teeth on the larger plastic jobby. I had to rethread that thing at least 3 times, working that one out...

Now, in order to reassemble it, pull the string down and wrap it around your finger or hand - you want to make sure the mechanism is retracted inside the housing for fitting. I had to do this as I don't have a clue which breaker controls the lights. And I'm too good-looking to die of electric shock. But anyway, it also makes assembling it easier. Then just screw the black box with the nasty wires onto the housing, and the housing back into the ceiling, and Bob is your mother's brother - working pull-cord light switch.

So, to sum up, the assembly looks like this:

Cord knot
Small plastic jobby, teeth V
Large plastic jobby, teeth ^
Metal jobby, with raised bits in line with large plastic jobby
Large spring
Small spring
Housing

Good luck..!

Chris, July 2008
ur right what a nightmare the bits fell out on me 2 and not because i was heavy handed, any way i fixted mine, 1.the string freds through the small bit with 4 groves and is tied with the flat bit being the bottom. 2. the bigger plastic bit is placed on top of the small plastic bit. 3. the metal peice is then put on the bigger plastic bit, it now all fits in nicely. 4. the small spring is put on. 5 the big spring is put on. then close and put screws back and it now works. hope this helps u.

marc, August 2007
The answer is to replace the whole unit, if you unscrew the cover, after turning the power off, you will expose the guts, they will not fall out, they did because they were broken by some heavy handed mis-abuse, now all you have to do is unscrew the base from the ceiling and disconnect the cables, connect them to your newly purchased switch in exactly the same places from whence they came and fix back to aformentioned ceiling, the number and position of cables, depends on the type and design of the circuit.

bob, March 2006
None of these are answers and yes it is easy enough to BUY a new cord but even if you BUY a new one you still have to fit it so for the Smaries who "answered" you were no help.....

Bathroom Queen, February 2006
you will need a new pull switch, it cost about £1.50 from most D.I.Y. store.

neville, January 2006
u cant best to buy new one can get one for under a fiver so not worth the hassle with old one

tony, December 2005