home Fix label Heating label_important Home Heating Systems category Drayton

DRAYTON DIGISTAT RF1 WIRELESS THERMOSTAT?

Can someone please tell me somewhere i can get information regarding the above themostat.My daughter as just moved into a house where this system is installed.I havn't got a clue regarding this system,so can anybody help please.
Cheers
Albar

albar, December 2006

home Fix label Heating label_important Home Heating Systems category Draytondone

Follow up from my question posted earlier.
Left the system off for a while, put it back on and the receiver was now dead.
Took it apart, replaced the defunct capacitor but also had to replace a 1.5Kohm resistor which had fallen off the board.
It's now working again...

Andy, January 2017

I have a Drayton SCR which I replaced the capacitor on a few years back and it's been fine since.

But it has just started a new failure mode - always turned on. Tried powering off/on with the batteries remove from the transmitter (which is not calling for heat anyway) and it still comes on as soon as power is applied - green LED on, boiler fires.

If I press the top button to try overriding it to off, the LED goes a dimmer green but then comes back on as soon as the button is released.

Capacitor again, or something else?

Andy, January 2017

I replaced the cap with a 50v one by mistake, the heating worked for all of 2 mins, the box started cackling, then started smoking. I guess that's it, big bill!

Not so clever Trevor!, November 2014

ps. you will need to sign up to this (free) site to see album.

stickle, November 2014

If replacing the 0.68 uF capacitor did not fix it and you are ok with electronics you might like a look at:
www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=3227814#3227814

see my 'Album' [click on 'stickle'] Good luck.

stickle, November 2014

check the battery trays are both in!! Simple but we cocked up for 2 wks!!

dogarse, September 2014

Hi - I have an Iflo Digistat wireless system.

The problem is that the "Receive Alarm" red light comes on randomly in the middle of the night, while the heating is switched off, for about 5 - 10 minutes, causing my oil boiler to fire up for that period of time.

Any ideas, please?

s r buck, November 2013

Hi, we have the same problem as David Morris - we purchased a new capacitor on Ebay and fitted it yesterday. The green light comes on but there is still no click. If we bypass the SCR by connecting terminals 1 and 3 the boiler starts up and we get heating.

Viv, September 2013

Hey Dave Morris

Okay the click is the important bit, this the relay switching on (it works basically like a remote on / off switch)

When the switch clicks it closes a circuit on the boiler PCB which should then enable the boiler to deliver heat.

Make sure your boiler settings are correct, (I have seen boilers which have been set to hot water only via a switch on the front panel and customer asked why wasn't he getting heat)

Is the system pressure good?

Are there any timers on the system which need to be correctly set??

You could try and bypass the SCR to ensure it isn't that, if it is not that and you have checked all above you are POSSIBLY looking at a boiler issue.

Dave Cardiff, September 2013

What happens when you have this fault, change the capacitor, and it still doesn't switch the boiler(despite seeing wireless flashes, light goes green as WR1 clicks...but no action from boiler)
Does this mean the whole box is dead?
I rechecked my soldering on the capacitor

David Morris, September 2013

Hi Alison

If you are talking about your room stat being dead, not much you can do here, things to check

1) Are your batteries ok ?
2) Are they inserted in the correct way ?
3) Sometimes the contacts get a bit messed up, cleaning them will a nail file can help, don't scrub to hard on them !

If you have tried all of the above it could be a new one I am afraid

Sorry

Dave Cardiff, September 2013

Hi, I'm having the same problem. The wireless control box is completely 'dead'. I have put in new batteries in but it's still not showing anything. help! Please

Alison, September 2013

Cheers Kev Barnes,

No problem mate, next time I am in Kent I will look you up, LOL :)

Glad all is well

Dave Cardiff, July 2013

Note from Australia:
Apologies as this is slightly off thread posting but exactly the same problem is affecting DUNGS brand gas fire controllers made in Germany. The capacitor brand (ISKRA) and value capcacitor (0.68uF) are exactly the same as the Drayton's controller and the ISKRA capacitor is failing prematurely in the DUNGS DGAI.73 MOD 5.1.0 TCV gas controller used in several Australian gas log heaters.

The capacitance value decreases over a relatively short time of only 1-5 years and the DUNGS circuit starts to malfunction when the capcitance value reached 0.23uF

Photos of the DUNGS controller are here:
http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/Gantos1/library/DUNGS%20CONTROLLER?sort=3&page=1

The ISKRA 0.68uF capacitor used in the DUNGS controller was qualified to IEC/CENELEC EN 60252-1 whereas a capacitor qualified to IEC/CENELEC 60384-14 X2 level would have been better, nevertheless it points to a manufacturing problem by ISKRA in Slovenia as metalised polypropylene dielectric capacitors in this type of application should last for 30-50 years before giving any trouble.

Frank, June 2013

I followed the instruction of Dave Cardiff to fix my digistat and it was simple. This cost me £4 from his ebay page and took about 15 minutes to complete. The plumber quoted me £199 for a new thermostat and fitting.

Dave you are a legend and anytine you are in Kent I will buy you a beer.

Kev Barnes, June 2013

Sue, Jan 2013: "can't seem to get digistat+RF to stay on desired temperature, when I turn the dial to desired temp (say 21) 'set' appears and then it remains on 21 but despite heat symbol no heat."

Probably too late for original questioner, but it's classical receiver problem: heat symbol suggests thermostat is transmitting, but receiver isn't receiving. Very likely capacitor problem. Check by listening for click of relay operating when heat is demanded.

If you know how, you can get back timer-controlled heating (no thermostat) until the receiver is repaired by by-passing the receiver with a wire link.

pol098, May 2013

Yeap that is correct procedure for units which are not talking to each other, the red led staying on is a classic sign of loss of wireless link. Still selling them capacitors if you have any other issues, look me up on eBay, my seller name is bearsy72 or search for "Drayton SCR Part"

Dave Cardiff, April 2013

Hi All, just to add my little bit. I have the RF1 and the SCR. The red light was permanently on on the SCR and the override button worked to operate the boiler (hear the click) and the green light came on. There was no link between the two. I changed the batteries in the RF1 and tried to re-sync the two (opening and closing the battery trays) but to no avail. I tried this several times with no joy. I finally fixed the problem by using the "learn" mode on the SCR. To do this: press button 1 and then button 2 (override) and hold together for a couple of seconds. Let go and the red light should flash for 7 seconds. The red light will then stay on. take the RF1 to near the boiler and adjust the temperature until it is high enough to fire the boiler. The red light will flash for 7 seconds and then the green (boiler on) light will illuminate. The red light will then go out, Done! Note that the red light will flash every 5 minutes to show that it is receiving the radio signal.

Robin, April 2013

Hi Dave,

Yeap that is the classic failure on the SCR,

There is a relay in there which is suppose to click when the green light comes on, if it doesnt click then the boiler doesnt get the signal to switch on.

The cap can either fail and you get no warning, or like yours it can be an intermittent issue.

If I were a betting man, I would put a few quid on the cap, look me on on eBay, I'm the seller bearsy72 or search ebay for "Drayton SCR part" and I can get that cap out to you today, same day delivery with me, over 800 people fixed and still counting

Any problems drop me an email, address is on my ebay page

Dave Cardiff, January 2013

Hi All
At the risk of sounding a complete bore I have had an intermittent fault with my system since around November. I have the Drayton RF2 wireless stat and receiver and for the last couple of months it has every now and again just decided not to switch on the Heating at the timed selection. It is intermittent no particular time. Seems to work o.k at switch on in the morning (perhaps colder) but usually the timed afternoon heating session it fails to fire and no interaction on my part will make it fire. I have replaced the timeswitch and the motorised valve on the mid position valve but they are working fine anyway. Stat is working flame comes up no problem and light turns green on the receiver but not light up from the boiler and pump. So usually I give up at that point and leave it and then low and behold the next morning at the first switch on time it fires up. Having changed almost everything else the SCR is the only item I have not replaced and at the moment everything is pointing to that, I could not work out why if the green light was on, why the signal would not fire the boiler, completely bewildered by this! I had also noticed that even on evenings when the heating had worked why later in the evening if the stat switched off the heating due to reaching temperature it sometimes would not come back on when the flame reappeared until next mornings cycle started.

So reading some of your comments is that what you are experiencing with your units and the likely cause being the Capacitor in the SCR breaking down and not providing the signal to the boiler to fire?

Unit is around 6 years old now.

Dave

Dave, January 2013

hello
can't seem to get digistat+RF to stay on desired temperature, when I turn the dial to desired temp (say 21) 'set' appears and then it remains on 21 but despite heat symbol no heat. what to do?

sue, January 2013

Hi Tony.

No lights on SCR,

Check a few things, ensure fuse in plug or spur is good, wires are tight on SCR back plate (ENSURE POWER IS OFF BEFORE TOUCHING THESE SCREWS!!!!)

but the fault is usual down to blown components inside the SCR. I can fix this fault, cost u just over a tenner + some postage, take a look here and see what u think.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181037749881?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649

You will see my email address on this listing if you want more information

Dave Cardiff, December 2012

Hi All

I have the same receiver and all the lights have gone out and despite the controller displaying the flame icon I am getting nothing through the receiver and therefore no central heating.

Can anyone assist?

Tony, December 2012

Hello.
To answer Emma's question below: When your Drayton Digistat SCR receiver has the capacitor problem it does tend to be intermittent at first.

A constant red alarm LED means that the SCR is not receiving a signal from the thermostat controller. Try and re-sync the unit.

You can read how to re-sync the unit and read General Fault Diagnosis Information on my website - www.draytonrepairs.co.uk - which has lots of information and pictures regarding the SCR unit and this capacitor fix.

There is also a link to my Ebay listing for a Genuine Replacement Iskra Capacitor + a Free Detailed Repair Guide to show you how to do each step of this DIY fix.

Kleist, November 2012

Try visiting:

www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk

There are real photos so that you can identify the model you have. It has printable files so that you can actually stand in front of the programmer and thermostat and read what is what, and how to sort them out. It has been an enormous help.

Heathen, November 2012

Still selling these caps on eBay, thanks to Paul D for telling me I have put up a wrong email address, my bad,

it should be

bach.dai1970 (at) gmail. com

look me up on ebay, bearsy72 or search for

Drayton SCR part

and u will find this capacitor that every is finding does the trick, check out my ebay feedback, nearly 500 sold so far and all happy people.

Also found a fix for dead units or units with dim lights too

Any problems drop me a line

Dave Cardiff, November 2012

Hi All - sorry if this has been asked before but before the capacitor went for everyone else was it a case of the boiler not coming on when it was on timer only sometimes... mine is doing it and the red alarm light just seems stuck on then it will randomly work. Its a Worcester Greenstar 24i and the Drayton SCR Digistat.

Emma, November 2012

+1 for the capacitor fix. I had the "green light on but no click" issue.

It starts off intermittent and you can solve it by power-cycling the SCR but eventually it refuses to come on at all. Basically the capacitor is losing its capacity over time, mine was down to 400nF from the rated 680nF and at that level there's not enough stored charge to activate the relay.

I recommend buying a replacement from the guy here that sells them but in my case the weather was cold and I needed one NOW so I found a compatible item at Maplin that required a slight box modification to fix. I fitted it and all is good again.

Andy Brown, October 2012

Hi all,

I've successfully fixed my Drayton SCR digistat by desoldering and soldering in a new capacitor as supplied by Dave Cardiff (bearsy72 on ebay) Thanks Dave!

I've got a new issue that i wondered if anyone can shed som light on.

I've got a Potterton 2002 controller that seems to be intermittently unable to kick off the hot water in the afternoon. The timer is set for 4:30pm, at the allotted time, the orange light comes on, but the motor value doesn't move and the bioler doesn't fire.

The central heating is always "on" but controlled by the room stat via the drayton SCR. The stat is low at the moment so although the Potterton CH light is on, the bioler and motor valve are off - as expected.

What's not expected is that if the water SHOULD be on but isn't, sliding the Potterton CH switch to OFF seems to allow the HW to come on!!

What might cause this? I've had a fire amount of work done to the system recently and am suspicious of the wiring job the plumber left behind.. Could some crossed wires cause this behaviour?

Any suggestion most welcome!

Thanks in advance,
Nic

Nic, October 2012

Hello
Can anyone please help me, I'm having problems with my heating I have a Dratyton Digistat +1, Digistat +1RF And Lifestyle LP522
It seems to have a mind of it's own somtimes it works and somtimes it dont.
I have the lifestyle LP522 switched on to con and I have changed the batteries on the Digistat +1 RF (and reprogramed it to the SCR), the temp shows 19 but i want 21 it has a flame on it showing its calling for heat, and i have a green light on the Digistat SCR and still the heating does not kick in ... the water is fine heating up ok
Some time will past then all of a sudden the heating kicks in but then after a while it switches itself off again without it reaching the temp i want ... Its like it has a mind of its own its doing what it wants, this just repeats like this, not very relibable.
I have seen on this site that it maybe the capacitor on the SCR
Is this my issue or do i have bigger problems ???
Please help any advise will help.

steve, September 2012

hey guys autumn is a coming, if your boiler gives you hot water but your central heating doesnt fire, AND you have a nice green light coming on on your Drayton wireless SCR then I bet your capacitor has failed,

To date I have fixed hundreds of these little suckers, keeping Britain warm LOL

okay so if you have got the above fault or sometimes it can throw different faults too look me up on eBay

if you search for "Draton scr repair", you will find me, I am the ebay seller 'bearsy72' , for just a few quid I can send you the part you need and full installation instructions / pictures, should only take 15mins to change.

you will need a soldering iron to complete the fix, if you dont have one then send the scr to me and I can change it for you for just a few extra quid, still way way cheaper than shelling out for a new system.

email me at
bach.dai at gmail.com

I had to go to ebay as it is easier to keep track of the shipping, feel free to email me direct using the above if u prefer not to use the auction site

Thanks and hope to keep you all warm

Dave Cardiff, September 2012

well am i glad i came across this the other day, i had all the same problems with my heating, the lights were on, the over ride wouldnt switch the heating on. I messed with thermostat so many times it was driving me mad. New stat and SCR £120 in B&Q grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr so i went onto ebay, buy now £50 so i left it it a few days messing with the system to see if i could do anything else but to no avail. So i was about to buy the new one for £50 and saw a capacitor for £3 hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm whats this about. Well for £3 quid i will take the gamble. Two days later it arrived took me ten minutes (never ever done anything like this before). Then came the big switch on....................BOOM i have heating woop woop so for that i thank Dave Cardiff you are a star i have not only saved money, but more importantly for me i have learnt something new, cheers

John Flynn, August 2012

Hi guys

Raf
totally dead hey, not seen one like this before, have you checked the fuse in the plug / spur which the SCR is fed by?

Natrussell50
On all the time, this is strange, if it was me I would first try it with the power off on the SCR and see if the heating is still on, if so maybe try it then with the SCR removed completely, you will need to switch it off then remove the 2 screws on the under side of the SCR, then see if heating is still on.

If it is still on when SCR has been removed I would say you have a faulty control board in ur boiler, if it goes off then SCR is faulty

Hope that helps

Come back to me if you need more help, use my usually address:

bach.dai1970 (at) gmail.com

Plenty of stock of the caps for you guys with the common green light no heating fault too

Dave (Cardiff), June 2012

Hi Dave. Im also interested in you cap fix. Our priblem is that the rf1 unit speaks to the scr but the heating is always coming on. The temp on the rf1 is set at 20 but the rads are still coming on even thpugh the display is 24 degrees. Something is not telling yhe boiler not to fire up. The house is boiling. Could turn thr heating off completely but really beed to fix. Do you think a nee capacitor will help tell the boiler not to fire up?

Natrussell50, May 2012

Hi Dave - I'm interested in your capacitor fix - however I thnk my fault is bigger - I have NO lights on the SCR at all.... it used to have red and green heating light but yesterday all the lights went out.... and don't come on again or react to the RF temp setting. Is the SCR totally fried do you think?

Raf, May 2012

Still got capacitors for sale, so if you have a green light on your Drayton SCR but no heating, drop me a mail too

bach.dai1970 (at) gmail. com

take the (at) out and put an 'at' sign in and remove the spaces

I have now supplied over 300 capacitors and not one person has come back and said it didn't work. So I guess my success rate is pretty good LOL

Mail me if you want instructions and me to supply a capacitor

Dave Cardiff, May 2012

Dave fixed it for me! It was not the capacitor but Dave's 'reset' instructions sorted it the SCR not receiving the RF signal...many thanks!

Andrew, April 2012

Dave (Cardiff) you are a star, in fact I'll give you 5 stars.

I AM SO GLAD I FOUND YOUR ANSWER AND SOLUTION HERE,

GUYS EMAIL DAVE at
bach.dai1970 (at) gmail.com
HE WILL SORT YOU OUT, HE IS A TOP GUY TOO, HE IS SOOO HELPFUL

Capacitor was delivered next day, he has got a .PDF document which will walk you through the changing of the capacitor too, took me 15minutes from start to finish, now I have a working system again.

RESPECT to you Dave

Geoff, February 2012

The one you need is not stocked at maplins.
It is a KNB1530/1560 0.68uF that Drayton use depending on the year of manufacture. You can buy a direct replacement KNB1530 0.68uF on Ebay from seller al222b.

If you open your reciever and have a look you can compare the picture and capacitance to the one on the listing. The 0.68uF is the main factor to consider but it must also be 275VAC, Class X2 and the dimensions need to be the same so you can fit it easily. I found terminal length is important too. The ones on ebay were a perfect match for the one in my reciever. I got one extra as a spare because it will happen again in another few years and I didn't want to hunt around for them again.

I wasted months not fixing mine and turning it off an on again. After I changed the capacitor, which only took 10 minutes, it has worked perfectly ever since.

Tom (Leeds), February 2012

I'm having the same problem with our drayton digistat and will try and replace the capacitor but how do I know which one to go for?. I have gone to the Maplin store and there are loads to choose from

K, February 2012

Thanks Dave all sorted, so many people here would probably like to shake your hand to say thanks, apart from the people at Drayton who still say they don't have any issues with this item, well thanks to you I don't have to buy a new one from them.

Toby, February 2012

We had the same problem with the Drayton SCR on our combi boiler for the last two weeks. The thought of forking out over £120 for a new unit got me looking into typical faults with Drayton SCRs. This unit normally comes with a Drayton Digistat RF thermostat from most major diy stores.

I am glad I looked and that I got in touch with Dave Cardiff ( email: bach.dai1970 (at) gmail.com )

I ordered a new capacitor from him. He sent it first class and it arrived the next day. I have no electronics skills but bought a cheap soldering iron from B&Q and carried out the replacement within 10 minutes. Easy.

Tried Maplin and RS online but neither had the part in stock or it was discontinued. Dave was very helpful, gave excellent advice and has the right parts. Above all, he did what he said he would do. Perfect service.

For information of our problem: Faulty Drayton SCR. It is the unit that sits next to the boiler. It receives the signal from the thermostat and tells the boiler to switch on when there is a call for heat. With our SCR unit, the green light would come on but the relay switch would not 'click' to tell the boiler to turn on. The boiler was was always working as we could always get hot water on demand.

We re-set the system tens of times to see if the fault was a frequency pairing problem.

As soon as I replaced the capacitor the system worked straight away.

Patric (Abingdon), February 2012

Nice easy fix thanks to Dave Cardiff, saved me 75quid on a new one, looks like this is a very common fault with the Drayton SCR,

Cheap fix, next day delivery too, glad I sent you the email
Thanks again from a wam house

Terry, January 2012

Hi guys, good news I have plenty of stock of the replacement capacitor again.

Drop me an email if you need one

bach.dai1970 (at) gmail.com

Dave Cardiff, January 2012

Many thanks for this solution - This was the second SCR that had the same problem. Found this thread the first time but chose to replace unit instead. Luckily managed to find 2 N73CN's in my local Maplin and a friend soldered it post to post as per instructions and a little squeeze back into the case...perfect

Dave, Camberley, January 2012

I had the issue of the red led being on against the 'receive/alarm' on the receiver for my RF1 wireless transmitter. Tried fresh batteries (that were known to work and had power enough for some of my remote controls), but this did not work. Then i went out and bought 'brand new' ones, and as soon as i put them in, boooom, problem solved.

Ian, January 2012

Hi all, My Digistat RF2 screen was blank one morning although I had not noticed in the past few days the low battery warning, changed batteries, still no screen, cleaned front draw contacts, still no joy, thought what about the rear contacts, took draws out and found a bit of the rear of left hand draws plastic had broken off and I presume had been laying in front of the rear contacts, because on reinstating left draw, screen showed up and after recommissioning every thing seems to be A Ok. hope this helps anyone in the future

Eric, by the sea, January 2012

Dave (Cardiff) you are the man, a nice warm house for xmas, only took 15minutes to change, nice instructions too

Will buy you a pint if you are ever in the Essex area

Steve, January 2012

Thank you all for this great forum. Just fixed my Drayton Digistat SCR today. Got new capacitor from Maplins. Worried a bit when I couldn't get the old unit off the board at first but found out it was glued underneath so Stanley knife came in handy. I was happy for approx 1 hour until 'Particle Filter' warning light flashed up on my BMW..AAHHH someone out there really wants my soul....Happy New Year..

Soulman, December 2011

all gone, will get more in new year

Have a Happy 'warm' Christmas peeps

Dave Cardiff, December 2011

WOW, didnt know how many of these things must be faulty out there, have sold over 30 caps in a week, thanks all

I only have 4 left as of 3pm on the 20th Dec, next 4 orders PAID FOR will get the caps

I have ordered more but delivery will be after xmas now

Sorry
Dave (Cardiff)

dai.back1970 at gmail.com

Dave Cardiff, December 2011

Replaced capacitor after reading through the thread. Fired up straight away. Bought several just in case. Thanks everyone for input to the page. Bought fro Dave ( Cardiff) who has a few for sale and included simple instructions. Next day delivery, so very happy and they fit without the need to mod the box.

Michael, December 2011

I have loads of these caps, they are the right size both physicallly and electronically, ie no need for the dremmel any more

if you need one email me at bach.dai1970gmail.com

can stick one in a jiffy bag for a couple of quid, really easy fix

Dave Cardiff, December 2011

Just had the same problem with the Drayton SCR.

Maplin don't stock the capacitors any more and Farnell have a £20 minimum order. Ebay seller dannell.4you has packs of 5 capacitors at £4.56 delivered (first class post) which was the cheapest way I found to obtain one. :-)

Does anyone know if the problem is related to temperature? We had no problems with this over a few years, it was moved into the boiler cupboard a month ago and now we get problems. Is that coincidence or predictable?

Andy J, November 2011

Replaced the block capacitor and all is well - thanks. For those who care why this works and why they used the capacitor rather rather tna a resistor or transformer, there is a technical explanation of wattless resisters aka capacitive droppers on http://www.vintage-radio.com/repair-restore-information/valve_dropper-calcs.html

CyclingProfessor, November 2011

Charlie W

Best thing to do is if u have a voltmeter is to check the voltage on the coil of the relay, it should be around the 24V mark, mine had dropped to 9V which was not enough to fire the relay to switch the boiler demand on, this was all due to a faulty cap, if u do have 24V on the coil on the relay and it doesnt click when it's calling for heat i suspect your replay is duff.

let us know how u get on

Dave - Cardiff, November 2011

Works a treat - just saved myself a small fortune

John W., November 2011

The capacitor that everyone here is chatting about is NON-POLARISED and can be fitted either way round.
It is a metallised polyester type
NOT AND ELECTROLYTIC TYPE

John W., November 2011

I have a red alarm light on my Drayton Wireless receiver. I have already recommissioned my wireless and receiver systems, but I then noticed that even when I press the override button the oiler didn't kick in.....but....I know the boiler is working because when I put the hot water on the boiler ignition alights and the water gets hot....so, it's not the boiler...can anyone help?

Colin B, November 2011

I've just slipped a piece of card into the contact in the relay so the relay is switched on and the boiler has fired up. I'm not sure what I have proved though - that the relay is faulty or the capacitor is faulty??? -
I'm just not sure.

What tests can I do to prove?

Charlie W, October 2011

Hi CharlieW,

It is possible the the new capacitor has failed. That would be back luck - but it is possible.

If you can test the voltage...

{quote}

Same as everyone else, changed the cap, 0.68uF and all is well, for your info the fault i had was green light would come on but you couldnt hear the relay click nor would the boiler fire, easy way to check is the coil voltage before replacing the cap was approx 9V, after changing the cap it was back to its normal 24V

Good luck

Dave - Cardiff
September 2011

{/quote}

... If SCR and wall thermostat are communicating, with the green light triggered on/off by wall thermostat control - I'd still be suspecting the capacitor, and at only £2.38 from Maplins, I'd try soldering another capacitor. I've bought a couple of spares - no longer a Maplin stock item, so "when they are gone they are gone."

The SCR should fit snuggly back onto the wired plate fixed to the wall. Maybe the contacts are not being met between wall plate and SCR housing... if this were the case the signal would reach the SCR from the wall thermostat but the boiler would not get the signal to fire up/shut down via the contacts.

Carefully check the wiring from the SCR wall plate to the boiler (both ends). Check there is a voltage at the boiler end.

If it's a combi and turning the hot tap on triggers the boiler to fire up and supply hot water I would be looking again at the SCR, then the wiring from SCR to boiler.

Good luck.

NigelR

NigelR, October 2011

I fitted the new capacitor and the RF3 and SCR units are communicating perfectly but I am still not getting a signal to the boiler. Any ideas?

Charlie W, October 2011

Hi CharlieW

I fitted the replacement capacitor (Maplins source) with the "WIMA MP3-X2" printed side face up - if that helps - and my unit is now working :)

I hope that helps.

NigelR

Nigel R, October 2011

Can anyone who has fitted the replacement part from Maplins please advise which way around the new part fits - i.e. The side with all the specifications - WIMA MP3-X2 0.68 275~ facing upwards or downwards - or does it matter?

OR does anyone have a link to a tech sheet - my worry is one side might be AC only and the other side DC only?

Charlie W, October 2011

FOUND THEM!

Learn from my near misfortune - when working on the capacitor replacement be aware on the other side of the PBC sit two rubber cones covering the split contacts (circular, with a lightning bolt split through the middle). Pressure on key 1 or 2 pushes the rubber down across the split contact. Inside the rubber cone is a conductor pad. The downwards pressure makes the contact.

If you can avoid the two rubber cones dislodging from their mount on the PCB all the better as they are devilishly fiddly to re-position.

I hope the above helps someone.

Cheers

NigelR

NigelR, October 2011

Hi AndyR

Ok, no springs... but there is something that sits on the PCB, rubber, cone shaped cover, that fits into the 1 and 2 buttons. These press down onto the "cone" on the circuit board. It is the "cones" that have dropped off the pcb and are now lost. Do you follow me?

Cheers,

NigelR

Nigel Renton, October 2011

too NigelR - there are no springs

Andy, October 2011

Thanks very much for the advise on the 0.68uF capacitor. I was unable to get it from Maplins but ordered from RS components (http://uk.rs-online.com/). It fits in the enclosure but leads are too short for mounting flat so had to extend these by leaving old leads in situe and joining with solder(old leads about 1cm long when old capacitor is broken up). RS Components part no 739-8698. Relay voltage went from 6v to 20v. Now working fine.

Andy, October 2011

The Maplin part number given previously is incorrect.

This is the correct part number N73CN.

If you include zero after the N it will not come up on the store database. I was puzzled yesterday when I had no joy in the store - lucky to have a guy on shift who was prepared to try a bit harder for me.

Once the part was located I was advised this is no longer a stock item. Suggest you buy a few for spares where you can still find them.

I replaced my cap - only to find I had somehow lost the spring contacts that sit behind buttons 1 and 2 and press down onto the PBC. I feared the units would not communicate once refitted. Happy to report all working fine and central heating is restored and controlled once again via the Digistat. Phew!

I would like to replace the two spring contacts. Anyone know where I can pick up these items - and their proper name?

Thanks,

N

NigelR, October 2011

WHAT A STAR DAVID!!!!
Same fault on my scr unit, ran to Maplins changed capacitor£2.58 ....bobs your uncle.
many thanks david

les from barnsley, October 2011

Same as everyone else, changed the cap, 0.68uF and all is well, for your info the fault i had was green light would come on but you couldnt hear the relay click nor would the boiler fire, easy way to check is the coil voltage before replacing the cap was approx 9V, after changing the cap it was back to its normal 24V

Good luck

Dave - Cardiff, September 2011

I have just replaced the capacitor mentioned above that you can buy online from Maplin:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=98166

the capacitor that you need to replace is found on the back of the circuit board from that you see when you open the unit up. It is a large light grey/brown square and is glued quite firmly to the PCB. You need to cut the two connectors and then gently ease it off the glue.

When fitting the capacitor ensure the text side is upwards and stick to the glue sticker that is already there. if you have cut the old one out nicely it should be trivial to bend the pins down carefully and they reach each other. A small amount of solder is then required to fix the join properly.

You will notice that this capacitor is much bigger than the old one and will require cutting out around 2 cm by 1.5 cm from the plastic backing and at the bottom of the unit so you can fit it all back together. I recommend covering the whole with plastic to secure it afterwards.

Providing you have followed these steps you will now have a fully functional SCR saving yourself £100.

Note: THIS ADVICE IS GIVEN AS IS AND YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK. ONCE YOU OPEN UP THE UNIT YOU INVALIDATE THE WARRANTY. ENSURE YOU ARE COMPETENT TO SOLDER ETC. BEFORE PERFORMING THIS REPAIR.

David X, September 2011

Thank you i have had a solid red light on the receiver. I have replaced the batteries on the thermostat and hey presto it works! Thank you

cathy hasmilton, August 2011

Thank you everyone and to whoever originally posted the link to Drayton receivers. I had looked at their website but never found this. I never realised the thermostat needed batteries. And then didn't understand why the receiver was on the red light. The info from the link was straightforward for a simpleton like me to use.

Kate, July 2011

Hi, thanks for all this info, I tried taking batteries out and leaving for ten minutes and that has worked as a temporary fix. Previously, removing the batteries and replacing immediately a few times did the trick but that soon stopped working.

FYI I called Drayton, they were very helpfull and are sending out a replacement receiver without asking for any form of proof of purchase. Can't fault their service but sounds like they could do with making a higher quality product.

Dan, April 2011

I ran into the same problem with room heating not switching on. Thanks to all those contributing to this thread, the capacitor from Maplin did the trick. Part of the case had to be cut away but it wasn't a problem.

This fix saved me a lot of money.

BJ, March 2011

CLEAN you battery connections in the wall thermostat first...I just spent hours with the SCR looking at the possibility of having to replace or repair and then put it all back together.....then I saw the posting about cleaning the battery connections. I had assumed that if they were clean enough to feed the display then they would operate the system...not so...I cleaned them and all is now working fine.

Steve, March 2011

Hi everyone, just want to add a huge thanks to this thread, because I also experienced the same problem, i.e. the SCR receiving signals from the wireless unit, the green heating light switching on but the boiler heating itself not turning on.

I went and replaced the capacitor with one from Maplin, thanks to Steve P (item no N073CN) at:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=98166

The plastic housing required some dremel work to fit the new larger capacitor. After commissioning to get the SCR communicating with the wireless unit once again, thanks to russell's link to the instructions, at:

http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/search.aspx?search=Digistat%20RF1%20Wireless%20System&page=1,

everything is currently working!

So once again, huge thanks, and I thought a detailed post at the top of the thread will help any newcomers. Also thanks to Kayball who I guess kickstarted the capacitor issue. The cynical me thinks maybe this bad design was deliberate to get customers to buy new SCRs every few years...

All the best,

Paul, February 2011

My scr shows green light and doesnt work on overide followed everyone else with this problem,wow it worked i fitted a new capaciter to my drayton scr -fault rectified- yepee only cost £2

wes, February 2011

hi my digistat displays e9 all the time,and cant get it to work.can anybody help me, thanks.

john, February 2011

Perfect! Thanks for the tip on bringing the points forward and filing, it worked!

Meg, February 2011

hi i have a 601 this is the third unit in 4 yrs so as you can prob tell im fed up with these same probs as everyone else not switching the heating on ...... where do i find the link on how to repair as link lower down not found anymore cheers

darren, January 2011

I would like to add my thanks to the person who suggested cleaning the battery contacts. This did the trick for me after a heating expert fiddled around a bit when the Digistat first started to play up, but didn't achieve a permanent fix. What I find curious is that the transmitter and receiver both showed the correct signals, even though the heating didn't come on. Maybe the weak signal was strong enough to show the correct signals but not strong enough to trigger the proper action.

Freezing Phil, January 2011

It works!! Just like everyone said! Brilliant! And thanks a million. I too had a green light on the SRC but no heating. My WorcesterBosch man traced the problem to the SRC (so not his problem). So I went and bought a capacitor from Maplins as per the link someone posted, undid the SRC and soldered in the new capacitor (and what I know about electronics wouldn't crowd a postage stamp). Not enough physical space inside the SRC for the capacitor (which is definitely bigger than the original one) but I squeezed it in somehow and didn't break too much white plastic. Just plugged it all back in and it's working fine. You saved me £100 so everyone pat themselves on the back.

TonyG, January 2011

I'm having the same issue of the thermostat and 'SCR' pairing, the signal for CH being received (green light comes on) but the boiler does not fire. The manual over-ride does not work either. So it's definitely a capacitor issue.

I have called the Drayton/Invensys Controls technical helpline - they were EXTREMELY RUDE, gave me one word answers. I mentioned that perhaps this is a recurrent issue which several customers are experiencing, to which the response was "we sell millions, some must be faulty"!! Horrible experience, more so because customer service had asked me to remain at home in front of the SCR so that tech could help me with a few steps. So took leave from work, only to be met with utter rudeness!

Definitely never buying a Drayton/Invensys Controls product again, and I would STRONGLY advise everyone else to opt for a more reliable company

B.Sq Soc, January 2011

Thank you bully beef.

I contacted Drayton today and as has already been said their technical department are very good. After running some diagnostics, they seen to think it is the SCR. They are sending a new one out FOC. I had worked myself up for a big argument, but they could not have been more helpful. If the new SCR does not fix the problem then I will treat myself to a mark 3 plus.

Peter, Woking in Surrey, January 2011

red light on all the time?.first of all check the terminals were batteries go.clean with a small bit of sand paper,pull prongs back slightly,put batterys back, shut right hand drawer first. this is important.re-set it as per instructions.bingo no money to lay out.

bully beef, December 2010

Hi,

I have an RF1 that was installed 3/4 years ago. It has stopped working or at least communicating with the heating valve and boiler. I have replace the batteries several time, stroked it and when this did not work I hit it. This actually worked a couple of times, but now the only way to get the heating on is to have the hot water on at the same time. I can then manually push the valve switch over.

I am thinking of just replacing the RF1 with the RF3, does anyone know if this is a DIY job? If all of the wiring is all the same, can I just swap them over?

Thank you.

Peter, Woking in Surrey, December 2010

Actually SCR stands for Silicon Controlled Rectifier if you are refering to electronics, either being a thyristor or triac !

Electronics expert, December 2010

Just replaced the 0.68mF capacitor in my SCR and it was quite easy. The Maplin capacitor is now out-of-stock at their HQ and zero stock at Farnborough, Hants & Reading.

The fix has worked (thanks to the expert who first discovered the cure), but it would be an idea to try and find a replacement with the same capacitor dimersions to save cutting the plastic housing. I found fitting the Maplin's item was best by cutting the old capacitor leads off right next to the capacitor body, this allowed the new unit to solder directly onto the old lead stubs without the need to remove them from the pcb.

Will be interesting to see how long the new capacitor lasts before I need to repeat the fix.

GregH, December 2010

hi everyone i had the red light staying on on my reciever and couldnt adjust the temperature vier the thermostate ,i replaced the capacitor as sugested for a couple of quid from maplins,however i did seem to have the same problem but what i didnt realise you need to reset the the comunication between the reciever and remote thermostate, i did this and it worked it took seconds for resting the two visit http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/search.aspx?search=Digistat%20RF1%20Wireless%20System&page=1 .thanks very much to whoever left the link for if i hadnt tried this i was about to give up and pay a plumbers huge prices ,many thanks

russell, December 2010

just read through all the links, i had exactly the same problem as other people: red light flashing and green light calling for heating but boiler not firing. I changed the batteries and pulled the prongs forward as suggested and, finally guessing it was the connection put small piece of alumnium foil between batteries and their connectors and bingo thermostat and boiler back in action.

iain mcl, December 2010

I have this problem with a +3RF but I find if I run the temp on the remote down to minimum +5deg C then back up to maximum about 30deg C the 'scr' operates the starting relay in the Grants boiler and off it goes - sometimes has a quite long thinking time but eventually starts.
Has anyone thought of trying a transformer in place of the capacitor to provide the 24volts? It would obviously have to be mounted outside the receiver, the capacitor disconnected and wiring arranged to connect to the pcb. I have several power units from old phones etc and I'm sure one of them would supply 24vac.Bit more reliable than a capacitor - known in the electronic world as a wattless resistor.

Derek, December 2010

Thanks Charlie

Dave, December 2010

Donna - Your SCR will physically be wired to your boiler, so hopefully shouldn't be too far away from it, trace the wires back.
Dave - the SCR has four plastic locating tabs, two on each side to hold the case together, you need to carefully prize them apart with a small flat headed screw driver or something similar, I found on mine that the same tabs then also caught on the circuit board so some more gentle prizing was necessary to remove it but AFAIK the case front is not held on in any other way - once you have it off you'll see that th board is held to the other half of the case with two additional tabs, which will be obvious when you'vew opened it up.

charlie360, December 2010

How do you open the Digistat SCR casing to access the pcb? I can open it on one side but something seems to be preventing it coming right out.

Dave, December 2010

Well, this thread has been very helpful - so huge appreciation to those who have contributed so far. I have replaced the batteries on the transmitter unit - found the pdf with instructions for re-pairing the transmitter and receiver, noticed the corrosion on the battery contacts (need a nail file to sort that) - BUT - can't find the receiving unit SCR anywhere! Really a problem. So, my question is, can I ignore the lost receiver and do I need a plumber to somehow put a whole new unit in. It's not funny - really can't find the receiving unit anywhere in the house. The plumber who installed it all also seems to have disappeared off the planet which does not help...

Donna, December 2010

Steve P Nov 2010 slightly misleading response.

Drayton SCR = Single Channel Receiver
Electronic SCR =Semi Conductor Relay.

They are as far apart as AA Automobile Association and AA Alcoholics Annonymous !

Skipdy, December 2010

Hi All - I too went to Maplin and replaced the Capacitor, and all has been fine for the last 3 weeks however the SCR appears to have developed a new fault - the red light on the receiver will stay on as a solid light for minutes at a time. It will then flash, then the boiler will fire up, and then a minute later the boiler will go off and the solid red light is back on again. I've replaced the batteries in the transmitter, but that didn't work, any thoughts, other than chuck the whole thing in the bin and get a system that actually works?

charlie360, December 2010

Pappa J many thanks,but which one is the direct replacement? ie un solder old re solder new.....job done

cheers

dodgyref, December 2010

Agree with Kayball comment May 2010. However, if you do not have electrical capabilities, buy the part and have someone replace it for you. It's a cheap fix.

Replacement capacitors can be found at:

http://www.inelcohunter.co.uk/KNB1560-68MFJ275V25

or

http://uk.farnell.com/
Part No's: 1781892 (recommend) or 1112846, 1166452, 1673316 will work.

Pappa J, November 2010

The capacitor from Maplins is not the same as the one on the SCR receiver. A little modification is required to the housing but it will fit and work.

Pappa J, November 2010

bought the capacitor from Maplins as advised.
removed scr and got to the circuit board however this
capacitor does not appear on my scr pcb?
My scr still wont switch on my boiler any advice would
be appreciated.
Could it be the small capacitor on the pcb?
cheers

Dodgyref, November 2010

The suggestion to clean the battery connectors in the draws worked a treat. Spent weeks trying to work this out, and was about to call out an enginnerr and cough up the £50 excess on my service agreement.

Can't believe this was all the problem was. Whoever discovered this, thankyou, thankyou thankyou.

Russ, November 2010

Had similar problem with the RF1 not sending signal. Looked at terminals in right hand box and one was corroded, cleaned it and pulled prongs out slightly. Put back together and did the re-learning process and Bingo, it works.
Many thanks Gary for the tip, saved me the hassel of calling engineer and a wad of money.

Stuart Philip, November 2010

im trying to open the RF1 SCR up to replace the capacito but I cant seem to open it without feeling like im going to break it. Ay suggestions?

Laurence, November 2010

I have had problems - housemove and finding heating wireless thermostats I do not understand, flashing light nightmare ! I have found complete instructions for all models of Drayton thermostats at this address:
www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk

There are real photos so that you can identify the model you have. It has printable files so that you can actually stand in front of the programmer and thermostat and read what is what, and how to sort them out. It has been an enormous help.

Stephanie Lowe, November 2010

I also have a two year old RF601 Drayton SCR unit that has failed. Best to put it in the bin where it belongs and replace it with a decent unit

Jeff H, November 2010

Hi - Thanks Joy and Gary! We couldn't get the RF1 to talk to the SCR but pulled out the prongs and used the nail file trick. And now it works! Thank you.

cormorant, November 2010

Thank you all & Steve P, went to Maplin, fitted the cap and all works fine now. I also spoke with a technical expert at the manufacturers, Invensys, who said that it was my boiler that was the problem, not the receiver unit. To quote, " I havent seen the cap problem since 2004." Perhaps they should read this forum!!

Paul B, November 2010

I have had issueswith the Drayton RF1 digistat recently. The unit seemed to communicate fine, but would not kick the boiler or valve into action. If I switched it all off for approx 10mins/removed batteries from the RF1 unit, then reset eveything it would work. It's not nice having to do that at 1am, when the house is cold !!!
Anyway I must say many thanks to "Kayball" (see response sent in May 2010) I have indeed replaced the capacitor at it works fine now and it cost me £2 !
regards,
Jules

julesgti, November 2010

Just replaced my Capacitor after seeing the same issue of the unit not switching on intermittently. Found the 0.68uf X2 Capacitor in Maplin over the counter for a couple of quid. item No. N073CN (http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=98166) Needed to extend the legs on the Capacitor to fit but if you're attempting the fix I'm sure you can do that...
Hope this helps someone in the future.

Steve P, November 2010

To qualify my answer just now, I've repaired the 0.68u cap on the receiver. By the way, in my opinion Drayton are being somewhat misleading when they refer to this as an "SCR". It is not an SCR at all, just a bog standard relay circuit. I suspect they are just trying to make it sound more complicated so as to discourage people from repairing it. Anyway, you can buy replacements, or refurbished ones, on ebay. You might even be able to get a part ex there...

henryrkp, October 2010

I have successfully repaired two of these Drayton RF601 units, I have parts to repair another four; I can either repair yours or I could do you a part-ex for a repaired one if you prefer.

Henry Robinson, October 2010

I have a 2 year old RF601 and the SCR unit appears to be defective. Having partially dismantled it and pushed it back on the wall so that it is live, there is no output back to my wiring box from the 'switched' terminal. The room thermostat transmitter works OK.
Drayton say to replace the SCR, but that's a bit soon at 2 years old and nearly £100 to buy separately.
Grateful for any solutions/suggestions (soldering iron at the ready).

Mark, October 2010

Any luck in tracking down a replacement? -You could try these guys ttp://www.inelcohunter.co.uk/KNB1560-68MFJ275V25
I'm just starting to wonder if I have the same intermittent problem too - so further info is welcome!

Charlie 360, October 2010

I am looking to replace the capacitor in my failed receiver, but am having trouble finding a suitable replacement. The one there is KNB1560 X2 0.68uF. Can anyone please suggest a suitable replacement nd stockest.

Thanks

Paul

PaulBaker4, October 2010

Replaced batteries - pulled out tongs a fraction put all back together but still no screen power. Can get heat by pressing the overide button - any ideas as to the remote unit???

Mike M, October 2010

i needed to replace batteries 2 AA to thermostat

Gaz Howe, October 2010

Just like to say that Gary, you are a star - I too had wireless failure and carried out what you had suggested - pulling out the prongs slightly in the unit - it was only when I was putting the batteries back in that I noticed there was very slight corrosion on the contact plates at the front of the drawers. Used a small nailfile to clean these up (being a girly) and ta-da! Job done! Thanks Gary

Joy, September 2010

Hi my Main combi boiler just wont fire up for the central heating. No errors on the boiler. I am using a digistat rf1 wireless receiver which seems to be working fine.

However the manual overide dosent fire up the boiler for central heating but there is no problem with the hot water at all.

Any help would be appreciated as its coooooooooold

Jim, September 2010

The receiver unit (that connects to the boiler wiring) for all the later versions of this wireless thermostat are the same, the trarnsmitters, with the LCD display are different. Most receivers suffer from a common fault which is the large capacitor (0.68 micro Farad) on the circuit board developing an increased Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR). WARNING: UNLESS YOU HAVE ELECTRONIC KNOWLEDGE DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPLACE IT. It is a special type (X2) designed for safe connection across the mains. Electricaly equivalent items from most component supply shops I tried are physicaly too thick to fit in the box and I found that only the exact type originaly fitted will suffice. These are difficult to obtain.
In my opinion, the circuit design is very poor, as this capacitor is used to reduce the AC mains voltage from 230V to approximately 24V. As the capacitor becomes defective with age, this voltage drop increases and when a signal is received from the thermostat, causing more current to be drawn from the mains, only 9V or less is available to operate the switching relay on the circuit board, which needs 15.6V to energise.
Hope this helps someone with electronic knowledge and discourages others to try and replace the capacitor.

Kayball, May 2010

Where is this 0.68 capacitor?and what does it look like?
Please help otherwise I will have to buy a new receiver?

Ella, April 2010

Battery compartments are on the underside, push back and down with your thumb nail and they should slide out easily.

gruff, March 2010

Drayton Digistat SCR, RF601 fault, after a year the system starts failing to switch on the heating. Eventually fails completely. Solution, the 0.68u capacitor on the receiver board is borderline for the job. A replacement costs less than £1 although you will usually have to buy a bag of 5. End result, the unit works a treat.

Henry, March 2010

Its definitely the Right hand draw contacts that causes a lot of the problems. I thought just because the display came on (RF) all was OK , however i think its the Left battery compartment that does the display. Once I cleaned and adjusted the contact prongs (pull out slightly) on the Right hand compartment the unit would then communicate with the SCR receiver (Red LED would start to flash and then go out). Tricky Devils ! this is the 2nd time now I have nearly replaced this unit.

Gary, March 2010

I was facing a £240 bill to change the thermostat, then checked this page, cleaned up the battery contacts in the right hand draw, recommissioned the connection and everything worked. Feel stupid that I did not check this previously, but wireless unit showed no signed of low or faulty battery connection, but the RHS is totally detached from the main display. Excellent customer service from Drayton on the Technical support line and now just have to find how to get the modified battery draws.

Daniel, February 2010

I cannot get the red led on the scr to go out. by pressing overide the boiler fires up. I have installed new batteries, and gone through the display fade thing, still a red led. its an rf3 unit. by pressing the plus or minus to get the flame on and off, there is no comunication as there is no flashing red led for 7 seconds as per instructions.

colin davies, February 2010

I need to replace my batteries in my RF1 thermostat. However, I can't seem to get the battery draws out, unless I open up the whole unit or break the casing. How is it supposed to be done? Had the unit about 5 years and only just need to replace batteries for first time! Thanks, Jan

Jan Friday, February 2010

My problem was that the boiler would not fire up even after I replaced the batteries in the RF1 thermostat. In my case the red LED on the SCR receiver unit (next to the boiler) was flashing fast red continuously, even after switching power off and on again after a pause. So I called the Drayton technical help line (0845 130 7722) and a very helpful chap explained that this meant the SCR unit would have to be replaced. But to get us out of trouble he talked me through how to remove the SCR unit (with power off!) and move one wire to allow the boiler to run continuously.

John Willis, February 2010

Answer to Ralph - on our RF1 it is possible for the + or - buttons to dislodge slightly and stick in, so if it's the + button the setting moves up to the maximum setting, which I think is 26 deg. This has happened to us a couple of times. So first of all check if the + button is stuck in.

John Willis, February 2010

WHERE CAN I FIND A USER GUIDE FOR THIS THERMOSTAT. I AM HAVING GREAT DIFFICULTY IN REUCING THE HEAT IT SEEMS PERMANENTLY STUCK ON 26 DEGREES - WHICH MEANS IT IS DIFFICULT TO LIVE IN THE HOUSE WHEN THE HEAT IS SO INTENSE IN SPITE OF THE VERY COLD WEATHER OUTSIDE.

Ralph Kossman, January 2010

Hi there, iam having the same problem, I have tried to recommession the RF1 following the instructions on the guide but the problem is that my boiler wont fire up so i cannot complete the process of recommessioning. any adviceplease???? thank you very much

Abbas, January 2010

currently have a glowworm boiler with an RF1 thermostat and a drayton MA1 actuator .. coupled with an ivensys time control ... odd thing is having replaced the timer and actuator ...the boiler will fire p but wont switch the actuator to heating ... seems also the boiler wont go higher than 21 ......so do i go for the digistat or boiler next in my repairs ?

Pete Hyde, December 2009

You need to remember that the RF1 on the wall "talks' to the SCR box, which you'll find near the boiler somewhere. If you change the batteries in the RF1, you probably need to make sure that the two units are still talking - follow the sequence described in the PDF on the following web-page. You might also need to check that the RF1 can talk to the SCR from where you've got it located on the wall - again there is a sequence to check signal strength.
http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/search.aspx?search=Digistat%20RF1%20Wireless%20System&page=1

Cliff, November 2009

I have the same one [Digistat RF1 Wireless System]. You may find the link below useful.

The RF1 acts as a thermostat only. Can I chance it for one that I can set to come on and off at 2 times during the day (morning and night) like the old fashioned systems. And do i have to replace both the thermostat and the receiver or can I get away with upgrading just the thermostat?

Many thanks

Krish T

Trouble shoot:

http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/search.aspx?search=Digistat%20RF1%20Wireless%20System&page=1

Krish T, November 2009

I have the RC1 thermostat & the wr1 receiver. I have changed the batteries in the thermostat. However intermitently the alarm button still appears red and the heating won't come on or won't go off.

Any ideas ?

AJ, October 2009

I had problems with the red light continously being on. First check the batteries, make sure there is no flame on the screen (if there is, use the + or - sign to regulate). The red LED light should flash a few times and then switch off. If not, then slide both battery drawers out until the the display fades. Push each drawer in. Once the display comes back on the red light should automatically switch off.

NishiC, October 2009

Many thanks Mr Lovelock - you have also saved us from a repair bill.

N&K Wilkins, October 2009

Thank you - we have this system installed in our bungalow which we moved into 2 years ago. We just noticed the battery icon flashing and didn't have a clue how many batteries there were. Once we knew there were 2 compartments housing 2 batteries each, we realised that they were in 'drawer' units that slid out.

Helen S, July 2009

RFi remote controller has got two compartments for batteries 2 batteries each , replace both at the same time
mine worked ,the red light went off

Ajit, February 2009

I also have the RF1 model and whilst the transmitter appears to working OK i have the red alarm LED on constantly on the receiver unit. I have replaced the batteries in the RF1 and cycled the power on the receiver unit, but the alarm led remains on constantly. Does anybody have any suggestions??

Kevin, February 2009

We have dropped our Digistat RF1 and now it wont work very well! Can we just replace the box or do we have to replace everything?

gill, February 2009

Try the following link, will tell all you need to know

http://www.eliwell.it/NR/rdonlyres/AFC32F46-2F1B-444E-A128-EC868B025F0E/0/DigistatRF1Instr.pdf

Andy, November 2008

To Mr A Lovelock

Many thanks for excellant answer - we now have heat and I can cancel the engineer who cannot arrive for 6 days. I had no idea there would be batteries but makes sense now!

Shirley, November 2008

Thank you James the children in my small school are now warm again. Excellent advice

headteacher, October 2008

I'm also grateful for the advice. Came down on a cold morning to find the room stat display blank. Your help meant I remedied this with 4 AA batteries instead of a new unit!

George, September 2008

Thanks for the help much appreciated

James, September 2008

The rf1 is very simple to control you must first make sure that you have 4AA batteries in room stat that are ok. To access these they are removed in two pairs at the bottom of it. Make sure that you have a temperature set to showing a flame then go to the main unit a and press learn. Then wait for it to fire up making sure the power is switched on. you can set the temperature to a fixed position from the room stat which will transmit the signal to the main unit.

Mr, A L Lovelock, March 2008

Thanks to Ray and Jem .. and to Albar for asking the question. I had the same problem. Cheers.

Jane W, December 2007

on computer try searching on, drayton rRF1 set up,

then go to firexsafety.com. instructions are there.

Ray Rrampton ray_rampton@hotmail.com, December 2007

Have you tried the Invensys website? They have manuals for some of their products, and a customer care line to call.

http://www.invensyscontrolseurope.com/

Jem, December 2006

link Click here to see other fixes for Drayton.